rovercoupe Posted August 7, 2014 Report Share Posted August 7, 2014 Hi, I have been trawling the net for the last few weeks learning about reloading as a bit of a hobby. I am a bit lost though about reloading data for salvaged hulls from the clay ground, do you need a certain type of good hull or can I just collect up one type and ask/find for data on that one? I grabbed a few different hulls to see what the difference was between them and internally they all measure up the same just different brass height. Even a kent and gamebore have the same brass stamp markings just different colour! I nhave found lots of data for american powder loads but nothing to id a uk hull as one that would work. I would want to reload for clays a 28g load plastic wad is fine. I am giving making my own shot too but thats a bit off yet! So what do you do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncle Albert Posted August 7, 2014 Report Share Posted August 7, 2014 (edited) Before you shell out your hard earned, have a word with one of the experts on here. Cookoff013 on here has just helped me start and his knowledge and expertise is priceless and he is very patient. Sitsinhedges is another one and there are many more. You would do well to keep to one brand of cart and make sure you get dry ones. Keeping to one brand helps keep it simple. there are lots of experts on here and they will help you. Don't expect to make much or any saving on clay carts. The saving, what there is of it, will be made on game carts or carts for 28, 20 or 410 gauge. Best of luck. Edited August 7, 2014 by Uncle Albert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deershooter Posted August 7, 2014 Report Share Posted August 7, 2014 A good shell to start with is any by Hull Cartridge Company Hull Super Fasts , Hull Pro One ,Sovering but not Comp X (these are 65 mm) you want 70 mm Vectan AS powder and a B&P Z24 wad 28 grams of shot Jobs a good one Deershooter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest cookoff013 Posted August 8, 2014 Report Share Posted August 8, 2014 A good shell to start with is any by Hull Cartridge Company Hull Super Fasts , Hull Pro One ,Sovering but not Comp X (these are 65 mm) you want 70 mm Vectan AS powder and a B&P Z24 wad 28 grams of shot Jobs a good one Deershooter what he said. do not buy any wads and that. buy primers.... and lead, these are interchangeable throughout the gauges... do as deer shooter says. buy primers, vectan AS powder , B&Pz24 12gauge wad, 28 grams of any shotsize lead...(clays, 9-8-7)(game 7-6-5-4) cook. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rovercoupe Posted August 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2014 Thanks guys, I will keep my eyes out for some hull ones, got a soverign here so know what to look for, does the high brass make any difference when reloading, better or worse? got a comp x too and realised they were 65mm when measuring last night! Cost is not really coming into it I just like tinkering and the satisfaction of making a cartridge that I made that does the job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest cookoff013 Posted August 8, 2014 Report Share Posted August 8, 2014 brass or metal head makes no difference ballistically. not you might have issues sizing the large metal heads, but we`d never know until you try. its the internal volume thats the most important. they are all about the same quality. i use cheddites and fiocchi virgin hulls.. as for cost, just buy what you need, also maybe buy enough to do 500. see if you like. if not you`ve not wasted much. cook. where is your location? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rovercoupe Posted August 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2014 Im just outside Leeds. Internal volume, does this affect if things will all fit in or it having a affect on the charge and causing different pressures? Sorry if its a stupid question! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Geordie Posted August 9, 2014 Report Share Posted August 9, 2014 (edited) Your internal volume depends on a lot of factors! Cart length Shot size shot weight powder wad length When using less shot, a rule of thumb is generally more powder. Some people think, Less shot needs less powder! Not the case! When loading, you need to find the correct height in the case, to allow a nice crimp, or your not going to get good pressures. If you can't close the cart, and your powder to.shot weight ratio is correct! You need to change your wad for a shorter wad! If your crimp inverts, then you need a longer wad! OR you could perhaps use a 67mm case! It's not really a black art! It's pretty much common sense! Never be tempted to add more powder or shot just to get a better crimp If everything is loose, then change your wad or cartridge to suit the load! OR you could drop a 20g over shot card under the shot to help raise the column! Any problems, Ask! The only stupid question is the one you never ask! Edited August 9, 2014 by Lord Geordie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rovercoupe Posted August 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2014 So if I have this right then the loading data is a preset for a certain cartridge, and as long as I stick to the charge and shot weight the wad can be changed to suit a different brand of cartridge if it does not produce the correct crimp (or add a overshot card if too short) Just one more, having never taken a shell apart should the shot fill the wad cup to the brim then the crimp uses the wad and shot to give a clean fold when crimping? I have found some pictures of a under filed crimp but if its too high I assume the cartridge just wont crimp over. One day I will get this sorted and acctually reoad, got the shotmaker working this weekend but I only had a shallow catch tank and managed to produced some great pancakes! on the plus it was dripping great and rolling off the lip a treat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest cookoff013 Posted August 12, 2014 Report Share Posted August 12, 2014 So if I have this right then the loading data is a preset for a certain cartridge, and as long as I stick to the charge and shot weight the wad can be changed to suit a different brand of cartridge if it does not produce the correct crimp (or add a overshot card if too short) Just one more, having never taken a shell apart should the shot fill the wad cup to the brim then the crimp uses the wad and shot to give a clean fold when crimping? I have found some pictures of a under filed crimp but if its too high I assume the cartridge just wont crimp over. One day I will get this sorted and acctually reoad, got the shotmaker working this weekend but I only had a shallow catch tank and managed to produced some great pancakes! on the plus it was dripping great and rolling off the lip a treat. loading data should have wad brand / number. only this should be used, if you change this it can affect pressures, however if it is a sensible standard load, there is less chance of it going pearshaped. stick to the charge weights, they are measured by volume, so the shot weights will never be exact when measuring larger shotsizes, i can live with some tolerance, about 4% ie 2% either way. i try to get powder charges, close to but never exceeding (general rule) (however a couple of my loads i have advised to add x more powder because pressure was low. but that still was below the maximum powder charge for that particular cartridge(s)) stick to recipe, some cases the shot is above, sometimes below thetop of the wad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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