islandgun Posted March 28, 2015 Report Share Posted March 28, 2015 new to me, i would like to hatch and raise about 50 mallard from eggs , i have an incubator and no knowledge, does anyone know of a supplier of fertile eggs, and/or any tips about the feasibility of raising from eggs, cheers IG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loriusgarrulus Posted March 29, 2015 Report Share Posted March 29, 2015 new to me, i would like to hatch and raise about 50 mallard from eggs , i have an incubator and no knowledge, does anyone know of a supplier of fertile eggs, and/or any tips about the feasibility of raising from eggs, cheers IGYou can often get fertile eggs at farm auctions that have a poultry section, but usually more domestic varieties than mallards. Whatever you do, don't get eggs posted as you get poor hatch rates as it disrupts the eggs inside with the handling. I learned this the hard way with chicken eggs. I have hatched runner ducks in the past successfully just need a higher humidity level than chickens. You are always best to buy direct from a supplier and fetch them yourself unless they offer their own delivery service. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
islandgun Posted March 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2015 You can often get fertile eggs at farm auctions that have a poultry section, but usually more domestic varieties than mallards. Whatever you do, don't get eggs posted as you get poor hatch rates as it disrupts the eggs inside with the handling. I learned this the hard way with chicken eggs. I have hatched runner ducks in the past successfully just need a higher humidity level than chickens. You are always best to buy direct from a supplier and fetch them yourself unless they offer their own delivery service. cheers LG I have some breeding domestic ducks but wanted some mallard to release and feed on a local loch, It has to be posted as the cost of collection from the mainland is prohibitive, (£75 ferry) I wondered if anyone could recommend a game bird egg supplier that they had used successfully and if they had any pointers about hatching and rearing, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loriusgarrulus Posted March 29, 2015 Report Share Posted March 29, 2015 http://www.hy-fly.co.uk/ This company near Fleetwood has been highly recommended in the past. They do mallards. If they can't help they might know someboby that can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shoot and be safe Posted March 30, 2015 Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 If you get them posted, make sure they are delivered by land and sea. NOT AIR When the eggs arrive let them stand (pointy end down) for a minimum of 24 hours in a cool place. If the eggs need washing, do this in a solution that is warmer than the egg. whether you use a specialist egg cleaning solution or a Milton solution it doesn't matter. If the eggs arrive clean, just give them a quick spray with you sterilising solution as you place them in the incubator. Make sure your hands are clean and sterile when handling the eggs. It would be better if your incubator is a "stand up" type rather than have the eggs laying on their sides, but it doesn't really make that much difference. If it is a lay down type, leave the eggs for a further 12 hours. After the eggs have stood for the 24/36 hours and your STERILE incubator is set up and holding a constant temperature (98°f). Place the eggs in the incubator and don't touch it for a further 24 hours (the temp will drop but will come back up to temp as the eggs absorbs the warmth), do not turn the eggs either during this first 24 hour period, as it helps the air sack settle. After the first 24 hours has passed, start turning the eggs. If you have a automatic turning incubator check that everything is turning as it should be. If you are turning manually, do this a odd number of times a day, ideally 5. KEEP EVERYTHING CLEAN AND STERILE Wash your hands before touching your incubator and eggs inside. After 24/25 days you can stop turning the eggs to give the chicks chance to orientate themselves ready for hatching. Humidity needs to be higher than for chicken eggs, especially when the ducks start to hatch. You can increase humidity by placing a tray of hot water under the vents of the incubator, allowing the steam to find its way inside. When the hatch starts, DO NOT OPEN the incubator until you think the last duckling has hatched and then wait a further 6 hours. They will be fine for a minimum of 24 hours after they hatch before they will need any food. They will not need water for the same time as the humidity in the incubator will be enough. This is why you don't open it. If you need any further advice, feel free to drop me a pm and I will be happy to help you if I can Good luck with it. All the best. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
islandgun Posted March 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2015 If you get them posted, make sure they are delivered by land and sea. NOT AIR When the eggs arrive let them stand (pointy end down) for a minimum of 24 hours in a cool place. If the eggs need washing, do this in a solution that is warmer than the egg. whether you use a specialist egg cleaning solution or a Milton solution it doesn't matter. If the eggs arrive clean, just give them a quick spray with you sterilising solution as you place them in the incubator. Make sure your hands are clean and sterile when handling the eggs. It would be better if your incubator is a "stand up" type rather than have the eggs laying on their sides, but it doesn't really make that much difference. If it is a lay down type, leave the eggs for a further 12 hours. After the eggs have stood for the 24/36 hours and your STERILE incubator is set up and holding a constant temperature (98°f). Place the eggs in the incubator and don't touch it for a further 24 hours (the temp will drop but will come back up to temp as the eggs absorbs the warmth), do not turn the eggs either during this first 24 hour period, as it helps the air sack settle. After the first 24 hours has passed, start turning the eggs. If you have a automatic turning incubator check that everything is turning as it should be. If you are turning manually, do this a odd number of times a day, ideally 5. KEEP EVERYTHING CLEAN AND STERILE Wash your hands before touching your incubator and eggs inside. After 24/25 days you can stop turning the eggs to give the chicks chance to orientate themselves ready for hatching. Humidity needs to be higher than for chicken eggs, especially when the ducks start to hatch. You can increase humidity by placing a tray of hot water under the vents of the incubator, allowing the steam to find its way inside. When the hatch starts, DO NOT OPEN the incubator until you think the last duckling has hatched and then wait a further 6 hours. They will be fine for a minimum of 24 hours after they hatch before they will need any food. They will not need water for the same time as the humidity in the incubator will be enough. This is why you don't open it. If you need any further advice, feel free to drop me a pm and I will be happy to help you if I can Good luck with it. All the best. Mark Thanks Mark that is the the most in-depth answer Ive ever seen I will mark this and follow it to the letter, one point, I have been in touch with hy- fly as mentioned by LG, do you have an expectation of percentages that may hatch as a guide to ordering ? cheers steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shoot and be safe Posted March 31, 2015 Report Share Posted March 31, 2015 (edited) It is always a lottery with eggs that have been delivered. As you don't know how they have been handled in transit. This is why you leave them stand pointed end down for a minimum of 24 hours. You are best asking your supplier as to the percentages and what guarantees they have that all the eggs they send you are fertile. (You can't hold them responsible for the embryos dying during the incubation period, that is most likely to be due to infection or temperature increases) As long as they are all fertile, your bio security is high (clean sterile environment), your temperature and humidity remains stable, there is no reason why you shouldn't get over a 90% hatch. Talk with your supplier as they will know what to expect from their eggs. Hope this helps. Edited March 31, 2015 by shoot and be safe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
islandgun Posted March 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2015 Cheers, shoot and be safe i will pm if/when I have a question Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shoot and be safe Posted March 31, 2015 Report Share Posted March 31, 2015 Cheers, shoot and be safe i will pm if/when I have a question No problem. Happy to help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A1Decoy Posted April 1, 2015 Report Share Posted April 1, 2015 (edited) Mark, your information has been very helpful to me too and i think it will help to increase our hatch rate. Thank you. Oscar Edited April 1, 2015 by Oscar@A1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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