Cleaning 22-250

[coupe312]

so i now have my lovly 22-250 t3 stainless. i have cleaned it every time with just the rod patches and solvent. is this the best way to go about it?

 

is it best to clean it every time?

 

whats way is the best!!! sugetions please.

 

and is sub 3inch at 270 yard ok with factory ammo? getting just over a inch size hole at 100yard.

 

i edited this as i made true measurment and realises i was a s£$ter shot than i first thought.

[Graham M]

Will it fit in the dishwasher.................... :(

G.M.

[kip270]

Will it fit in the dishwasher.................... :( :yp:

G.M.

 

But you need to take the scope off, and maybe the stock so it will fit in better

 

How many shots are you putting through it???

TOO MUCH CLEANING WILL RUIN A RIFLE

 

Sub 2" at 270 yards is good with factory ammo One dead fox that's for sure

[stevethevanman]

and is sub 2inch at 270 yard ok with factory ammo? getting less than 10p size hole at 100yard

 

what ammo are you using as I am just about to get a 22-250

[coupe312]

and is sub 2inch at 270 yard ok with factory ammo? getting less than 10p size hole at 100yard

 

what ammo are you using as I am just about to get a 22-250

 

was fedral power shock i think 55g. i will check tonight and let you know

 

 

as for dishwasher is that a eco run or 65c wash?

 

Will it fit in the dishwasher.................... :( :yp:

G.M.

 

But you need to take the scope off, and maybe the stock so it will fit in better

 

How many shots are you putting through it???

TOO MUCH CLEANING WILL RUIN A RIFLE

 

Sub 2" at 270 yards is good with factory ammo One dead fox that's for sure

 

i put 81 so far... only one at a fox about 100 yard away( rest on targets)........ he fell asleep before his lamb dinner.

[kip270]

I found the eco run more environmentally friendly

[coupe312]

come on guys real idea please on how;s best to clean it

[Dead-Eyed Duck]

Clean it every 50 rounds or so.

 

I do this not because my rifle needs it, but for peace of mind.

 

No doubt there are shooters out there that happily put 500 rounds though before cleaning, but I think that every 50 rounds or so is a good compromise.

 

Target shooters can be fanatical about cleaning (and I would probably be too), but as long as you are happy with 'reasonable' goups at 100 yards........ and that's another story - what is reasonable?

 

I still do it the old fashioned way with a bronze brush soaked in cleaning fluid fluid followed by a wet patch to clean most of the gunk out, then followed by more use of the bronze brush and then dry patches.

 

I was told that when the patches start to come out clean rather than blue (which denotes copper fouling from the bore), then that is it.

 

Whatever you do do not run through with a wet patch and then leave for several hours for it to 'work'. I have been told that prolonged exposure to a cleaning fluid can be ultra-corrosive, and your rifling will end up knackered!

 

Use a bore guide to ensure that your rod is always central.

 

Another stupid comment, but do not under any circumstances insert the cleaning rod from the muzzle, as this will affect the crown, and you will end up needing the barrel re-crowned.

 

No doubt others of a more technical mind will now comment.

 

Don

[Graham M]

I still do it the old fashioned way with a bronze brush soaked in cleaning fluid fluid followed by a wet patch to clean most of the gunk out, then followed by more use of the bronze brush and then dry patches.

 

I was told that when the patches start to come out clean rather than blue (which denotes copper fouling from the bore), then that is it.

I remember the first time I used Hoppes Benchrest. The patches just kept coming out blue time after time. So! I would bronze it again and then patch out…….and still the patches came out blue.

It was only after doing this for a while that I realised that the Hoppes was actually dissolving my bloody bronze, causing the patches to appear blue.

G.M.

[fieldwanderer]

Pretty much as you have been mate, with any rifle, but with a suitable solvent for the ammo you're using (for example there's solvents specially for copper coated ammo)

 

When I used to do a lot of match shooting (internationally), the whole squad had a lecture in a classroom about it which included a talk from people from eley. There's a lot of different opinions but the one we were told to follow was this;

 

Bullets are generally coated with grease now and none of the primers / propellants are corrosive so, don't clean your barrell AFTER you shoot, clean it every time BEFORE every time you shoot! The grease from the bullet protects the inside of the barrell (though a stainless barrell won't rust anyway) and you know you're starting a shoot with a spotless barrell B) .

 

Every now and then, use a dentist's pick to dig the dirt out of where the ejectors sit in the end of the barrell and where the end of the cartridge sits in a recess in the end of the bolt.

 

Every time you clean your barrell, give the bolt a wipe over, prefferably with no oil as dirt sticks to it. Every 6months or so, strip the bolt and give it a good clean but DONT oil the fireing pin (slows it down aparently), interestingly, we were told to rub over it with our hands/fingers and the oil in your skin's perfect for the firing pin!

 

Also, every now and then, remove the action from the stock and give it a clean and wipe with an oily rag to stop it rusting, clean the trigger mechanism with white spirit (when it dries it leaves an oily residue and will protect and lubricate parts). When you put the action back in the stock, do the bolts "finger tight" and, holding the stock with muzzle skyward, bump the butt on the bench/ground a couple of times before tightening the bolts fully, this ensures the action's bedded properly.

 

What I don't know is how to clean a silencer, I've not found anything that shifts the muck off the baffles very well though I've just tried petrol and redex which seemed to work quite well.

 

Hope that helps mate.

[Graham M]

(though a stainless barrell won't rust anyway)

Unfortunately this is a common misconception as stainless barrels can rust if not cleaned after they have gotten wet.

G.M.

[deadeye ive]

and is sub 3inch at 270 yard ok with factory ammo? getting just over a inch size hole at 100yard.

 

.

Am I reading this right .Are you saying that that 1" group will appear a 3 " group because it's 3 x the distance B)

 

There are loads of info on barrel cleaning on here( http://forums.pigeonwatch.co.uk/forums/ind...owtopic=27252#( ) but you have to find out what gives you confidence ,running clean or running fouled so plan to do alot of range work

[coupe312]

 

 

and is sub 3inch at 270 yard ok with factory ammo? getting just over a inch size hole at 100yard.

 

.

Am I reading this right .Are you saying that that 1" group will appear a 3 " group because it's 3 x the distance :blink:

 

There are loads of info on barrel cleaning on here( http://forums.pigeonwatch.co.uk/forums/ind...owtopic=27252#( ) but you have to find out what gives you confidence ,running clean or running fouled so plan to do alot of range work :blink:

 

 

no not at all. good old ruler to measure the two holes furthes apart from each other. thats the way i did it