Cr-v or x-trail

[Dave-G]

I recommend any X-Trail buyer does whatever it takes to get a potential purchase to dry ground and take a look underneath with a decent torch. Even my 1/4 million mile 12 years old Galaxy taxi don't look anywhere near as bad as the newer lower mileage X-Trails I've looked under.

Edited October 27, 2016 by Dave-G

[jam1e]

I joined the Nissan Xtrail Owners Forum and asked for advice when looking for a decent Xtrail. I don't recall what some of it means now, but here you go -

 

Buying Guide

1. Start it up from cold (feel the bonnet beforehand or pop the hood to look at the engine). If it doesn't start on the first turn after the glow plug light goes out, negotiate down. You're looking at a replacement battery, £100 or plug(s) £20(1) - £80(4) or glow plug relay. As the weather is currently 14 C average, it should start easily, even with a glow plug issue - so watch that the light (coil symbol) does go out.

Also ensure that the MIL/EML engine management light, comes on with ignition and goes out there after.

*All diesel X Trails sound rough on start up - with some diesel clatter. This should subside after a few minutes. If there is excess noise when driving and changing gear, it may indicate a timing chain issue.

2. Once started, let it tick over, Watch the rev counter. Make sure the air con/heating is off. If the needle flutters between 800-1000 RPMs you have a possible SCV issue. £200 DIY. How to guide on the forum. Watch this again in traffic on idle.

3. Look out for any black or white smoke on start up. Heavy black smoke could mean turbo problem, EGR needs cleaning or replacing, clogged inlet manifold, MAF or air/fuel ratio, injector issue. White smoke may be an indication of an injector problem. Look out for smoke under hard acceleration, again EGR or inlet manifold needs a good clean.

4. When driving, take it up through ALL the gears. Listen for any turbo whistle - there shouldn't be any. If there is, this will cost anything from £200 for a DIY CHRA cartridge swap to £1200 for a garage replacement. The engine should pull cleanly, with no stalls. Any hesitation, could indicate a problem with the TPS, MAF or SCV. Again negotiate down.

4. Listen for any pinging or rattle when driving over bumps. This could be the antiroll bar bushings or droplinks that need replacing. A relatively easy job to do and roughly £60 for the lot, but again negotiate down.

5. If there is any noise from the wheel, like a hard knocking, this could be the bearings on the way out. These are a press fit item, so a trip to the garage is necessary to put right at roughly £350, depending on labour, negotiate down.

6. Let the X Trail free wheel at a slow speed, 5 - 10 MPH. Any resistance means that the brakes calipers are seized or the pads are stuck in the retaining clips. Rebuild kits can be sourced for the pistons, but if the caliper bore is pitted, you'll need a new caliper(s). Budget £500 for the worst case scenario.

7. After your drive, lift the bonnet. Have a look at the bottom left on the front of the intercooler pipe. If you notice any oil, this means the crimped core intercooler is leaking and need to be replaced. Even if you don't see any oil, check the rocker cover and engine block for signs of oil. The evidence may be cleaned away, but have a good look anyway.

A leaking intercooler will lead to overboost in the turbo, which can shorten its life. It's a straight forward job to change for a welded core item, budget £250. Negotiate down!

Also examine the discs, for any scorch marks or scoring after the drive.

Check all the electrics - wipers and washers can sometimes be troublesome, especially the rear. They very easy to put right, but always check.

Check the rear rubbers and seals on the doors and also check if the cargo hooks are still in place in the boot. If any of these are loose or missing . . . Negotiate down!

Kind Regards,

Eoin