Dunkield Posted July 3, 2007 Report Share Posted July 3, 2007 Back here DIY Section I asked about a muzzle brake for my .223, and Nick reminded me that UK Neil off the Airgun site does these. So I dropped Neil a message, and he asked for some dimensions from my gun. I got these to him at about 10am on Friday and by about 4pm he emailed me to say 'how about this' So it is excatly what I wanted, made in a day, in stainless steel, and posted out to me an all for £25. Top quality service like that deserves recognition (just waiting the Royal Mail to deliver it ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mry716 Posted July 3, 2007 Report Share Posted July 3, 2007 I suggest you ensure it is Loctited in place or a small hole drilled through the thread and a grub screw fitted. Brakes that move, even slightly, cause accuracy problems and they often do move if you do not have a 100% tight thread and then 'locked' in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tikkamark Posted July 3, 2007 Report Share Posted July 3, 2007 Does it make any difference to recoil noise ect?Cant see the point in m.b for .223 not a whole lot of recoil to start with or is it just for visual purposes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunganick Posted July 3, 2007 Report Share Posted July 3, 2007 this one looks to be a combination airstripper as well, should provide a cleaner collum of air for the projectile, should also reduce muzle flip, i believe that stuarts .223 has been cut down considerably to make a very light gun, with a synthetic stock, so despite being .223 the muzzle flip will be noticeable. The muzzle break also makes sure that everyone shooting either side of you at the range had bleeding ears and hates you. its also more interesting than a thread protector. This is why i had one on my .22lr for a long time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tikkamark Posted July 3, 2007 Report Share Posted July 3, 2007 this one looks to be a combination airstripper as well, should provide a cleaner collum of air for the projectile, should also reduce muzle flip, i believe that stuarts .223 has been cut down considerably to make a very light gun, with a synthetic stock, so despite being .223 the muzzle flip will be noticeable. The muzzle break also makes sure that everyone shooting either side of you at the range had bleeding ears and hates you. its also more interesting than a thread protector. This is why i had one on my .22lr for a long time. If it reduces muzzle flip then its well worth having it there Would'nt like to be beside you at the range Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mry716 Posted July 4, 2007 Report Share Posted July 4, 2007 That particular brake is unlikely to reduce muzzle flip as the holes to exit the gases are all around the circumference. The holes to reduce muzzle flip need to be on the top of the barrel and generally one or two small holes (1/2 size shown) would be adequate. The additional holes reduce recoil and as you add extra holes around the brake more need adding to the top. I am finding if I port a barrel rather than make a brake it is both more effective and cosmetically more attractive as well as avoiding the chance of brake movement under recoil conditions. This is particularly applicable in heavy recoil situations. Below is a picture of porting on a 325WSM which without produces the recoil of two 308's each shooting max loads with 165gr bullets. With the porting it is easily shootable in one hand at arm's length. There are 3 series of holes of only 1/8" and spaced at 120 degrees apart. Even with a rifle generating that sort of recoil shooting 220gr bullets the muzzle flip is sufficiently low as to be able to see your bullet strike. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v356/mry...SM/f75e4cc0.jpg A particularly effective brake design for flip reduction as wellas approx 45% recoil reduction is this small one I made foir a 308 based on the Parker Hale Scout design. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v356/mry716/Steyr5.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dunkield Posted July 4, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2007 As Nick says it is more of a thread protector (I needed one of those anyway) than a brake. The gun has never shot too well unmoderated, which is fine as that is how I use it, but the mod get very hot with rapid fire so I wanted to try it with a brake on instead. I will find out how it shoots next Thursday. Here it is on the gun, it looks the part if nothing else (and no, I don't sleep with my guns....) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mry716 Posted July 4, 2007 Report Share Posted July 4, 2007 One misunderstood aspect of brakes is actually some noise reduction. Yes we all know no-one likes shooting along side of someone using a brake but the effects of the noise on someone else can, in part, be managed by the positioning of the holes. ie the porting above is noticeably better for someone else than the brake shown where all the gases come out sideways and backwards. However you must remember that any shot always generates the same amount of noise and any increase in the noise you are hearing at the shooters end of the trajectory is also removed from the quarry end of the trajectory so in many instances the quarry sitting next to the one you shoot first will often hear little more than a shot taken with a moderator fitted esp considering you are nearly always shooting into the wind so allowing nature to offer extra suppression and dissipation. You may well be pleasantly surprised at your new ability to take additional shots that were not previously available because the quarry had run away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vegeta Posted July 4, 2007 Report Share Posted July 4, 2007 A particularly effective brake design for flip reduction as wellas approx 45% recoil reduction is this small one I made foir a 308 based on the Parker Hale Scout design. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v356/mry716/Steyr5.jpg Very nice work there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mry716 Posted July 4, 2007 Report Share Posted July 4, 2007 Thank you Kind Sir Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tikkamark Posted July 4, 2007 Report Share Posted July 4, 2007 Thank you Kind Sir Mry you seem to know your stuff concerning muzzle brakes Can you tell me does a t8 mod act like a muzzle brake i.e reduce muzzle flip? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mry716 Posted July 5, 2007 Report Share Posted July 5, 2007 Thank you Kind Sir Mry you seem to know your stuff concerning muzzle brakes Can you tell me does a t8 mod act like a muzzle brake i.e reduce muzzle flip? Any moderator will also reduce felt recoil and as such reduce muzzle flip, but the effect and flip will be dependant on the brake, rifle and ammo used. The effect of the additional weight on the end of the barrel also provides a bonus. The moderator contains the gases, allows them to 'slow down' and then exhausts them. Brakes can use the gases generated to deflect the rifle to the point that allows no muzzle or sideways flip so rather than just having a series of holes all around the brake I try to use the holes to give max recoil reduction whilst still allowing best 'hold' when firing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dunkield Posted July 5, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2007 One misunderstood aspect of brakes is actually some noise reduction. I hadn't thought too much about that, but it reminds of a device I had fitted to the exhaust of my old road/race car. It was series of disks that screwed in the end, this dissipated the noise, so when the scrutineer held his noise meter the sound was effectively scattered. I found this old picture on my PC of a 'real' muzzle brake, well it's on the end of a 50 cal so you would want a good one And here is a (lousy quality) video of a 7.62 brake in action, you can just see the blast jetting out either side of the muzzle Bang Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dunkield Posted July 9, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2007 Well, on the good advice of MRY I went out and bought an M3 tap and drilled/tapped a hole in the brake. I now have a nice M3x3 stainless steel grub screw form Model Fixings (link courtesy of Pin if I remember correctly?) PW provides all the answers it would seem I will find out if it works later this week.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mry716 Posted July 9, 2007 Report Share Posted July 9, 2007 Of course it will work - superbly. But if for any reason it doesnt you can always blame me offering a 'stupid' grub screw suggestion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dunkield Posted July 12, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2007 As a bit of a conclusion to this thread, and just confirm I am still alive. . . I was at the range today and was able to give the new 'brake' a test, all I can say is it transforms the gun in it's mod off state. By all accounts it is pretty noisy either side :unsure: but you don't notice that from behind the gun, and we were under cover. The recoil, if you can call it that, is reduced to that of a .22 rimfire shooting HV's - if that. Another bonus is the gun doesn't too hot to shoot so quickly. After swapping the mod for the brake, the first shot was high, after a quick re-zero the next 2 touched each other at 100 yards, I am happy with that. And the grub screw worked a treat after all, it didn't move Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mry716 Posted July 12, 2007 Report Share Posted July 12, 2007 Great ! I am pleased that it is all you could have hoped it would be. Good shooting M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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