three questions from a novice

[jhrg]

Hi there, I've been reading up on the subject in anticipation of getting out there and having my first crack at it, but I am unclear on three things:

 

1) What kind of spacing should there be between decoys, assuming they are laid out in a horseshoe pattern?

 

2) If there is little or no wind, does this make a big difference? (I have read that it's a waste of time going out at all on a windless day)

 

3) Is it better to stand up to take shots or to remain seated?

 

All opinions gratefully received - cheers.

[njc110381]

If you enjoy reading, take a look at this book http://www.amazon.co.uk/Pigeon-Shooter-Com...1811&sr=1-1

 

I tend to space my decoys about 10 feet apart and face them into the wind even if it's only very slight. Once the birds come in they seem to focus on landing pretty well so you can stand up to shoot them. This is my experience of it, but I'm by no means a pro and only bag 25 birds at best. There are some much better shooters than myself on here, and I'm sure they'll add their comments soon. Whatever happens, welcome to the forum and good luck!

 

Neil

[jhrg]

If you enjoy reading, take a look at this book http://www.amazon.co.uk/Pigeon-Shooter-Com...1811&sr=1-1

 

I tend to space my decoys about 10 feet apart and face them into the wind even if it's only very slight. Once the birds come in they seem to focus on landing pretty well so you can stand up to shoot them. This is my experience of it, but I'm by no means a pro and only bag 25 birds at best. There are some much better shooters than myself on here, and I'm sure they'll add their comments soon. Whatever happens, welcome to the forum and good luck!

 

Neil

 

Many thanks for the tips and I'll check out the book you recommend - your record of 25 birds is about 25 more than I'm expecting on my first outing next week, but I'll report back with my experiences in due course!

[pin]

Ideal conditions are overcast and with a good wind blowing. Too hot and they tend to sit in the shade of trees, too still and they don't seem to want to fly (when they do it's high as well).

 

Remember you are simulating wild birds so don't have the decoys too methodically placed, best way is to walk the pattern and throw them either side of the line you want, you won't often see woody forming nice straight lines all facing the same way (though generally face them into the wind).

 

Think about where you want to shoot them, ideally over the decoys in front of your hide about 25 yds out, they will want to land into wind and will tend to head for the "head" of your pattern or thereabouts, so place that off to the side (depending on your layout) so it's not directly in front of you or they won't present the best shots.

 

Try and get movement into your pattern, bouncers/floaters do this excellently and at this time of year it's good to have some height above the stubbles so they can be seen. Don't worry about a shell deek being 2 foot off the ground on a stick, by the time woody is close enough to notice he will be concentrating on where he's picked to land and won't pay any attention.

 

Stick to taking shots well inside of 40 yds or less depending on your ability and you should end up with clean kills. No6 shot is ideal, 30/32 is plenty but lighter loads will get it done.

 

Just remember to clean up, pick up all your spent shells and mess and despatch any wounded birds as promptly as possible (three sharp twists on the neck) and you won't go far wrong.

 

Edit: Sitting or standing by choice. I have shot both ways and had equally good results. Obviously your hide design will be different but shouldn't make much difference. Just wait till they commit before moving, if you stay still they will come in anyway

 

Good luck!

[jhrg]

Ideal conditions are overcast and with a good wind blowing. Too hot and they tend to sit in the shade of trees, too still and they don't seem to want to fly (when they do it's high as well).

 

Remember you are simulating wild birds so don't have the decoys too methodically placed, best way is to walk the pattern and throw them either side of the line you want, you won't often see woody forming nice straight lines all facing the same way (though generally face them into the wind).

 

Think about where you want to shoot them, ideally over the decoys in front of your hide about 25 yds out, they will want to land into wind and will tend to head for the "head" of your pattern or thereabouts, so place that off to the side (depending on your layout) so it's not directly in front of you or they won't present the best shots.

 

Try and get movement into your pattern, bouncers/floaters do this excellently and at this time of year it's good to have some height above the stubbles so they can be seen. Don't worry about a shell deek being 2 foot off the ground on a stick, by the time woody is close enough to notice he will be concentrating on where he's picked to land and won't pay any attention.

 

Stick to taking shots well inside of 40 yds or less depending on your ability and you should end up with clean kills. No6 shot is ideal, 30/32 is plenty but lighter loads will get it done.

 

Just remember to clean up, pick up all your spent shells and mess and despatch any wounded birds as promptly as possible (three sharp twists on the neck) and you won't go far wrong.

 

Edit: Sitting or standing by choice. I have shot both ways and had equally good results. Obviously your hide design will be different but shouldn't make much difference. Just wait till they commit before moving, if you stay still they will come in anyway

 

Good luck!

 

 

This is all really useful stuff - many thanks for the tips and will let everyone know how I get on.

[jhrg]

As promised, am reporting back on my day - for my first outing I thought not too bad at all... Got 6 woodpigeons over 4 hours, but I did use 20-odd cartridges, so not a great ratio.

 

I have a Beretta 20 bore, loaded with 24gm Special Pigeon cartridges (No6), and suspect that these are a bit light for the job - I'm sure I hit a couple more, but they were further out (30-40 yds) and only lost a few feathers before flying off.

 

I've used these cartridges successfully on pheasant and partidge - do pigeons need something a bit more heavy duty?

[Blackbart]

As promised, am reporting back on my day - for my first outing I thought not too bad at all... Got 6 woodpigeons over 4 hours, but I did use 20-odd cartridges, so not a great ratio.

 

I have a Beretta 20 bore, loaded with 24gm Special Pigeon cartridges (No6), and suspect that these are a bit light for the job - I'm sure I hit a couple more, but they were further out (30-40 yds) and only lost a few feathers before flying off.

 

I've used these cartridges successfully on pheasant and partidge - do pigeons need something a bit more heavy duty?

 

Hello mate 24 gm is a bit light for pheasants an personally i wouldnt use it for anything but snipe and clays.

 

shooting a pigeon with 24gm at 40 yds i am suprised it managed to loosen feathers.

 

I would defo upgrade your cartridges.

[pin]

24g of 6 isn't light, it's the wrong size for pheasant

 

24g of 5's would do you better for the phezzies.

 

20bores with 24g of No6 will take a bird the same as a 12 with the same load at the same distance in the right hands. I fail to see what a heavier load of the same shot does other than make the pattern more dense with the same killing energy?

[tulkyuk]

24g of 6 isn't light, it's the wrong size for pheasant

 

24g of 5's would do you better for the phezzies.

 

20bores with 24g of No6 will take a bird the same as a 12 with the same load at the same distance in the right hands. I fail to see what a heavier load of the same shot does other than make the pattern more dense with the same killing energy?

well said pin - mate of mine uses a 28 bore with 24grm 6's in it and can kill things that even i dont pick the 12 up to!!!!

[ferretmanabu]

I've used 8 shot 28 grams on pigeons before and they seemed to kill them as dead as the 32 gram 6 that i was using.

[jhrg]

Hmmmm - lots to take on board here. Think I will:

 

Stick with my 24gm No6s, spend a bit more time on clays (practice makes perfect and all that), and keep my shots within 30 yds.

[Sundodger]

jhrg I use 24/25 gram no 6 in my 20 bore and it knocks em down OK.

 

Like you said go and practice on the clays.

 

Sundodger

[pin]

I've used 8 shot 28 grams on pigeons before and they seemed to kill them as dead as the 32 gram 6 that i was using.

 

I have too when I ran out of 6's but the range you will cleanly kill them is reduced considerably. With 8's you'd want to keep within 25yds over the deeks to be making sure.

[Suffolk shooter]

Hi there, I've been reading up on the subject in anticipation of getting out there and having my first crack at it, but I am unclear on three things:

 

1) What kind of spacing should there be between decoys, assuming they are laid out in a horseshoe pattern?

2-3 yards. Experiment as the day goes on. Basically the more open the pattern is, the belief is that the pigeons decoying in feel safer

 

2) If there is little or no wind, does this make a big difference? (I have read that it's a waste of time going out at all on a windless day)

It can make a difference, but depends upon time of year, crops about and weather leading upto and likely to happen after. For example if you have had horrible windy, wet and cold weather then birds should in theory decoy easier due to the need to feed. If on the otherhand the weather has been stable for some time then there isn't much need for the pigeons to get as much food as possible unless as all animals have this sixth sense about weather the weatheris going to turn horrible immediately after that day then they will be preoccupied about feeding and so easier to decoy.

 

3) Is it better to stand up to take shots or to remain seated?

The less movement you make the longer the pigeon will keep coming in, sudden movements mean pigeons will jink out of the decoy landing zone at longer ranges. When you set up your hide, make sure you give yourself plenty of room and above all make sure you're comfortable. Nothing worse than keep fidgeting because your uncomfortable or because you keep getting the gun snagged. Saying that last week I was out and managed to stand up, snag gun in net, unsnag, bring gun up, pull trigger to find safety was on, take safety off and still bring down a rook that had come in from behind the hide

 

 

All opinions gratefully received - cheers.

 

 

SS

[caeser]

Here is my thoughts , for what they're worth.

1) What kind of spacing should there be between decoys, assuming they are laid out in a horseshoe pattern?

I always vary the distance between decoys. I have watched feeding birds on the ground through bino's, and some are right next to each other, so I always have 1 or 2 close together(1-2 feet) and the others are all different distances apart

 

2) If there is little or no wind, does this make a big difference? (I have read that it's a waste of time going out at all on a windless day)

Windy does generally, as a rule give the birds more confidence to dive into the pattern, BUT my biggest ever day of 168 pidgeon was on a red hot ,windless day. So don't always write off calm days.If you can find where the birds are feeding ,then you've cracked it.

 

3) Is it better to stand up to take shots or to remain seated?

I always remain seated, but this can depend on the hide,make sure it's comfortable, you may be in it a long time. Of course personal preference, some people prefer to stand to shoot. As someone has already mentioned, NO MOVEMENT is the key.

 

Will your first outing be with an experienced person. If not then see if you can get out with someone experienced at some time.