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One for the home loaders


Guest Stavvy
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I have the Lee aniversary reloading kit and I used to reload .222

 

I sold the rifle and the dies some years ago and haven't bothered with it since but I have just purchased a .243win and I would like to start reloading again but I'm not sure which dies I need to get.

 

I think I need the Lee pacesetter 3 die kit which includes a conventional bullet seater, roll crimper, shell holder, powder dipper, load data and storage box.

 

Do I also need to get the Collett die kit?

 

The info reads: A collet squeezes the case neck against a precision mandrel for a perfect bullet fit with minimum run-out. No case lube is needed. Cases last ten times longer, so the savings on only 35 cases will pay for the dies. Sizes only the neck to preserve the perfect fit derived from fire forming. Includes neck-sizing die, bullet seating die, powder dipper, shell holder and plastic storage container.

 

I have read posts on here reference neck sizing v full lenght sizing and I'm not sure which to do?

 

Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.....

 

Steve

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I had a search round for opinions and having listened to what experinced reloaders used I bought Redding dies - I never had any problems with them.

Look at smartreloader.com for them

 

Can I used them in the Lee reloader?

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I would say you need to shoot 200 a month, but then I have just packed it all in - so probably not the best person to ask <_<

 

Do it for accuracy, do it for the enjoyment and the satisfaction, but you have to shoot an awfull lot to recoup the cost of decent reloading gear.

 

For a .223 you can buy 20 rounds of AE for about £8, reloads will be about £6 or £7 depending on what components you use.

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Home loads in my .223 do group much better IMHO. And you get a better choice of loads/velocity that suit YOUR rifle, not a round thats gonna be OK in every rifle produced for the masses <_<

I have only been reloading for about 2 months but allready I can produce groups that are tighter than factory and thats just using a lee aniversary set.

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handloading will not be cheaper than factory unless you buy very expensive factory and handload in bulk.

 

The amount of different bullets, powders, primers, differnt brass etc... there is no way i can get the price down that much. However it is so much more accurate (after an amount of testing) its also satisfying.

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Am I right in thinking that on the dies you can adjust the seating depth of the bullet?

 

My understanding is that the closer the bullet is to the rifling the more pressure you need as opposed to seating the bullet deeper into the brass where you need less pressure.

 

If I am right so far, whats everyones prefered depth?

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Yes, your seating die will allow you to select the depth that the bullet is seated.

 

Regarding which dies to buy.....any of the standard makes of dies (Lee, RCBS, Redding, etc) will give you good enough accuracy for normal hunting, you only really need the two die set (Sizer die and seating die).

 

My personal preferance is RCBS.

 

If you are just starting reloading this caliber I would suggest starting off at SAMMI length, and work up your load slowly.

 

You will only see higher pressures if you seat your bullet into the lands.

 

Once you have an accurate load you can fine tune by experimenting with different bullet OAL.

 

Get yourself a bullet length comparator, which measures to the ogive of the bullet if you want to do this accurately, as measuring the length

to the tip of the bullet will never give you repeatability.

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Am I right in thinking that on the dies you can adjust the seating depth of the bullet?

 

My understanding is that the closer the bullet is to the rifling the more pressure you need as opposed to seating the bullet deeper into the brass where you need less pressure.

 

If I am right so far, whats everyones prefered depth?

 

 

you have only scratched the surface, if you seat too close you can get pressure spikes, equally too far away and the bullet has a jump to the lands again producing a pressure spike.

 

bad pressure spike = no face

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Am I right in thinking that on the dies you can adjust the seating depth of the bullet?

 

My understanding is that the closer the bullet is to the rifling the more pressure you need as opposed to seating the bullet deeper into the brass where you need less pressure.

 

If I am right so far, whats everyones prefered depth?

 

 

you have only scratched the surface, if you seat too close you can get pressure spikes, equally too far away and the bullet has a jump to the lands again producing a pressure spike.

 

bad pressure spike = no face

 

 

Cheers Nick,

 

How do I know where to start, Browning suggests that I start of at SAMMI length, whatever that is! I have been told the Lee modern reloading book will contain all the info i need, do you agree?

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Stiv, it is easy to say but not so easy to find, but if I was you I would look for a 'mentor' to show you the ropes.

'Learning by doing' is preferable to reading books and watching DVD's.

It is an incredibly satisfying, addictive but rewarding pastime, but it is not without risks if you get it all wrong.

 

I am not sure if we have many relaoders down your way, it may be worth asking on some one of the bigger forums like the bbs.

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Cheers Stuart

 

My friend is in the marines and he set up my .222 but I didn't pay much attention. Instead of asking him what he was doing I just let him get on with it. Now I'd like to understand it a little more, I'll be asking him allsorts next time I see him.

 

Winchester

 

Will that book give me a basic understanding of reloading or do you need a certain amount of knowledge to work it?

 

Thanks guys for all the advise

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please give me a bell mate its easer than this darn thing i will pm you my number

 

 

Thanks for that, I'll give you a ring tomorrow........I can here the pub calling me in to watch the rugby

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