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what should i do to clean my gun


ak47
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most reputable gun shop will have them i use them on all my guns shotguns rifles and handguns all calibres its like a long nylon rope with a tough stainless steel brush built in to remove lead powder copper and so on ,a few draw throughs will clean most guns your air rifle will be no prob  :lol:

Hi,

 

I would not recommend to use such a set with any brush what so ever - even a nylon brush. By time they will destroy the inside of the bore on an airgun (nylon). A brass brush would probably immediately destroy the bore.

And a rod set is no good either - you may destroy the crown of the bore with such a set.

 

No, you much better off with a pull through set from Otis which consists of a wire overcoated with plastic to prevent bore damage and in one end of the wire you can put a patch on for taking the dirt out of the bore. This is the right way of doing things !!

 

A very cheap way. Get some thick fishing line with a patch in one end instead of the Otis set.

 

Cheers - Bolta

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As Bolta correctly says be very careful what you stick down the Barrel of the gun.

 

I use a solvent cleaner on my break barrel guns to remove the lead deposits from the rifling grooves and then pull through with a piece of string ( The normal organic white stuff commonly available ) with a tag of cloth tied to the end.

 

Be careful not to get any solvent cleaner on rubber or synthetic washers or seals.

 

I clean the Precharged guns similarly with a length of lightweight strimmer nylon with a tag of cloth tied on the end. The nylon is stiff enough to thread through the breech in most cases.

 

I very lightly oil the inside of the barrel with a synthetic non Dieseling gun oil but this is only really necessary if the gun is going to be stored without use for some time.

 

I use WD40 on all the moving parts externally including the stock and wipe off any excess immediately.

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maybe i did not explain well enough,the st/steel brush is stiff not to that stiff that it will remove material from your bore the rc of the steel in the barrel exceeds the rc of the brush the brush will therefore wear out before your barrel,most of your barrels will hone themselves in after many 100/1000s of rounds increasing accuracy ,in final ,i would not expect to see any of the milions of boresnakes on the market if they didnt work :lol:?:lol:?:lol:?? its not the only cleaning solution

your solvents and patches also work

martin

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maybe i did not explain well enough,the st/steel brush is stiff not to that stiff that it will remove material from your bore the rc of the steel in the barrel exceeds the rc of the brush the brush will therefore wear out before your barrel,most of your barrels will hone themselves in after many 100/1000s of rounds increasing accuracy ,in final ,i would not expect to see any of the milions of boresnakes on the market if they didnt work :)?:)?:lol:?? its not the only cleaning solution

your solvents and patches also work

martin

Hi,

 

I just need to say, that airgun barrels are not as hard as real rifle barrels. So again, using a brush or a rod solution is NOT recommended. Use only a pull through set of some kind and pull it from breech to muzzle ONLY. Not the other way around !

 

Actually, many airgunners and also dealers of airguns recommend these pull through sets. So, I am not the only one here saying this !

 

And remember, as I said before, that airgun barrels are more delicate than barrels of real firearms and should be treated very softly to keep their accuracy in a hole lifetime. So clean only your airgun barrels then you don´t get accuracy anymore, not before !

 

Cheers - Bolta

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agreed wd 40 leave a risidual sticky coating when dry and can cause fouling and gauling of steel faces

WD40 Does leave a residual coating thats the purpose of it.

 

I have been using it on my airguns, shotguns and centrefire for 20 years and have never had any of the problems described.

 

3 in 1 oil just seems to attract the dust and grime.

 

Each to his own!

 

FM.

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very true fm thats why i dont use oil ,having worked in the steel/alloy machining industry since 1975 i have learnt a thing or 2 ,i dont use oil on any guns it tends to attract the dust/grit and can turn into an abraisive mix that exccelerates wear and or gauling to mating face's, the lube i use is an industrial dry film this contains molybdenum/graphite/polybutyl titanate, this i apply to solvent cleaned and dry

firearm all moving parts including hinges after drying wipe off excess , this again i hasten to add is my preferance to gun maintanence and cleaning obviusly not everyones im not trying to impose my will but there are more than one way to skin a WABBIT wouldnt you all agree ??

just a side note my friend and i purchased browning ultras the same day 5 years ago since mine has had excess of 200,000 rounds thrrough and is still tight, his a lot looser and scored in many places around the hinge pin and block area through the use of oils and or grease any of you useing chokes try a little on the threads and see the differance in removal happy hunting guys

 

martin

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