njc110381 Posted January 20, 2008 Report Share Posted January 20, 2008 I've been spending some time over a graph trying to work out the best zero point for my new .22lr with subs. From what I can make of things I need to zero the cross hairs an inch above the impact point @ 25 yards. That would give me a strike +/- an inch between 25 and 80 yards. Does that sound about right? Another thing that's bugging me, I'm having a blonde moment. When I say zero an inch high at whatever range, is that the crosshairs an inch high or the bullet strike an inch high? I know this, but for some reason tonight my brain just isn't wanting to play Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pin Posted January 20, 2008 Report Share Posted January 20, 2008 (edited) "inch high @ $yards" usually means bullet strike is high compared to POA. Depending on ammo you are using in the .22lr.. (assuming subs) 1" high at 25yds is about a 75yd zero with POI about 4" low @ 100yds Really depends on the most frequent range you are shooting stuff. I'd personally go for a 50yd zero which puts you about .2" high @25yds (which means forget about it) and you end up 2.5" low @ 75yds which is about the max I'd be using it anyway. Lets you point and shoot up to 55yds before you do any maths, anything longer and you can work it out easily enough. Edited January 20, 2008 by pin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shootingman Posted January 20, 2008 Report Share Posted January 20, 2008 Point of impact will be an inch higher than crosshair placement. On a close target aim an inch low & you are still in shot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnGalway Posted January 20, 2008 Report Share Posted January 20, 2008 Repeating what's already been said but, yes, an inch high at say 60 yards would mean your bullet will strike one inch high of where you have your crosshairs aimed at 60 yards. I use Eley subs and I zero for 60 yards. So my bullet hits where I aim at 60 yards that is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave-G Posted January 21, 2008 Report Share Posted January 21, 2008 (edited) It's much more accurate to decide and prove the actual zero rather than an inch above at closer ranges. The thickness of your crosshairs can make quite a substantial difference at the 70 or so yards your true (primary) zero is. My .22lr zero is 50 yards as that is about the average distance I lamp rabbits at. As a matter of lazy convenience I also use that zero distance as the secondary zero for my 17HMR barrel when I swap over - putting the primary zero near as dammit 100 yards with "8" (32 clicks) off the elevation turret. Most scopes have at least that much adjustment available. This is for hunting tolerances rather than paper punching of course. Edited January 21, 2008 by Dave-G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
njc110381 Posted January 21, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2008 Cheers for the replies. Not too much p1$$ taking over my zeroing question either which is a bonus! For some reason last night I just couldn't figure out which way round it was, even though I've done it several times! By the sound of things a 50 yard zero would do me. If it's only .2" out at 25 that will be great for me as I'm not going to be going much past 60-70 yards with it. To be honest I'm pretty doubtful I'll take it out much, but now and again it will just be fun to have a semi to plink with. I wasn't going to bother with a .22lr, but now I have my steep sided permission I feel a little safer about using one. My flat ground was cleared for it too, but I'd rather use the HMR on there to reduce the risk of ricochet near the motorway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dunkield Posted January 21, 2008 Report Share Posted January 21, 2008 Stick the calulator at 50 yards and shoot it Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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