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Help in removing Tru Oil off my stock and oiling please


huey
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I am wanting to strip my stock back to remove the factory finish of Tru oil and apply some walnut stock oil onto my Lanber.

 

I have began the strip using a fine wire wool and have removed a substantial amount of the finish which comes off in a white powder...

 

When do you stop rubbing?

 

How do you prep the stock for reapplication?

 

Any tips and advice?

 

Cheers

 

Huey

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  • 1 month later...

ive oiled one or two stocks and always remove the old finish with nitromores gel, then sanded with finer and finer wet and dry, to get a really smooth finish you need to raise the grain by dampening the surface with water and then gently drying, i hold mine over the cooker hob and rotate, the tiny fibers will stand up and can be removed with very fine dry wet and dry paper you will need to repeat this until all the micro fibers are gone then you can apply your chosen oil finish

 

mikee

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Hi there check out my link in my signature as you can see there I have done more than a few stocks in my time.

Firstly do not scrape the finnish off as you run the risk of taking the wood off the secret behind a good refinnish is to take as little wood off as possible Nitromores paint stripper is a good way to go.

Once you have removed all the finnish off, wash the stock with soapy water washing up liquid works well, then while the stock is still wet this is a good time to lift any dents once you have done this allow the stock to dry for 24 hours.

Now you can sand the stock with sand paper to remove any raised grain. Start with a fine sand paper and then finer still till the stock is like glass smooth do not use wet and dry wet as this will just raise the grain. Then you need to stain the stock. I have made my own stain till you get the right colour, but allways remember that this is quiet difficult and only with experience will you get the right colour. You'll need to sand again very lightly as the stain will have raised the grain up again. Once you have done that its a good idea to let the stock stand over night in the morning check the stock for any lifted grain sand if required. Then you need to seal the stock allow to dry over night once again check for any grain lifting lightly sand if required then you can start to oil thin coats only and allow to dry completly till you put another coat on every third coat when dry, check if everything is even and give a very very light sand with very fine sand paper till totally smooth then wipe clean and add another coat. I apply between 9 to 12 coats. then allow to dry for three days and you can finnish things off with stock conditioner and wax :lol:

 

or you can send it to me and I'll give you a finnish to die for :lol:

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Thanks for the replies but unfortunatley the job is done.. I started off using a medium/fine wire wool which I purchased from a car repair shop and gave it some elbow grease untill I had removed the top coat. I then switched to a fine wire wool and rubbed down the stock untill I reached the wood stain layer, which was dam hard to judge. I then applied 4 coats of Philips Stock Oil to the wood work over a period of 5 days allowing each coat to soak in between coatings and remembering to palm rub in any excess oil. The end fnish is a semi matt finish which provides me with an improved grip on my game gun, especially when wearing gloves. My main regret is not getting some of the fine scratches off the butt which where caused during rubbing with the medium grain wire wool, but you live and you learn....

 

I am unsure if further coats of oil would irradiacte the fine scratches or am I stuffed unless I strip it again? :yes:

 

huey

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