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springer training


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its my 1st attempt at training a dog and i have an 11 month old springer. he's steady to a thrown dummy and quaters well etc but as soon as he comes across real game he's off nose down hunting. this has happened a few times now and usually its in places where its hard to get out and catch him and therefore reprimand him. now after reading an article on the shooting times website im worried it maybe too late?

 

http://www.shootinguk.co.uk/qa/294149/How_...ning_ahead.html

 

i know its a different situation in the article but the same will result if its not cured. does anyone have any training plans i can follow or advice please?

 

proberly loads of posts on this subject but i cant find them.

 

cheers

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There are some good points in that article. However there are some that I personnally dissagree with. There are lots of different training methods out there and methods for different aged dogs. I have not met a dog, spaniel or other breed that if they have the drive could not be molded into a proper working dog.

 

While a rabbit pen would be great as it gives you a controlled area with guarrenteed game it is not an absolute neccessity. You can use you hunting fields, especially as you folks have such an abundance of game compared to us. I agree that the first step is to get this dog out on a long line so that you can control this situation. This means controlling his distance, his direction, and his chasing. You are going to teach him his proper distance to quarter, his turns on the whistle, and his not chasing.

 

Be sure that you have his basic control .....heeling, sits, recall, sit, wait, stay, laydown all in place on and off the lead....By this I mean in the house, in the back garden, in the local park, and in your hunt fields. Then proceed to the long line quartering, hunting up, no bird, no game,........ sitting or standing to flush...shot...and...fall.............. marking, and retrieving . If you need help developing a plan ask and I will see about putting something together with you.

 

Have a sit down and evaluate your dogs strengths and weaknesses. Write them down, and then see how far back you need to go in his training to correct your problem areas.

 

NTTF

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Agree with NTTF, good advice as always. IMO you want to get his basics 100% engrained before he sees, flushes or has the opportunity to chase any type of game.

 

Some experienced handlers don't start real training these dogs until they are a year old, however the flip side is the dog has been brought up in a carefully managed environment without bad habits being allowed to develop.

 

11 months is not too late, good luck.

 

WGD

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Mate been there with my 1st Springer, though i had her under control and took her shooting last year and lined out on me when she got a sniff of game....took her completely back to basics, sit to whistle, whistle and then whistle some more....that way if she does run out you should be able to stop her on the whistle...

 

Its all part of the fun with Springers :lol:

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Thanks for the replies :good:

 

its easy 2 lose your confidence when things start going downhill, at least now i know im not the only 1 whos had this trouble. bloody dogs :good:

 

That would be great NTTF i'll go out today and see what needs to be done and the make up a list of good and bad points and get back to you asap.

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Thanks for the replies :good:

 

its easy 2 lose your confidence when things start going downhill, at least now i know im not the only 1 whos had this trouble. bloody dogs :lol:

 

That would be great NTTF i'll go out today and see what needs to be done and the make up a list of good and bad points and get back to you asap.

 

The amount of times that I lost my confidernce with my springer during the early days of training. She is doing really good But like you she still wants to get out there and chase em. the last couple of times out she was up for a good chase but I managed to stop her and get her back, but given the chance she will go after them. And know the season has finished, I am going get back into a good training Programe. All the best Cat amongest them.

 

Sundodger

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Now that the season has just finished i can get out into the "gamey" places and do a bit of training with the real thing. Although we havent encountered any pheasants the past few days have been quite promising, been out in the 1ft high elephant grass practicing his hunting skills and has flushed hares and snipe without any problems. i have made up a sort of list of his strengths and weaknesses for you to look at NTTF if thats ok.

 

Good points:

Stops to whistle everywhere inless there is really strong game scent. (stopped when commanded after flushing the hares and snipe though?).

 

Recall is good in garden, paddock and non game scent areas.

 

Turns to whistle.

 

good pace when hunting!

 

walks to heal on and off lead whilst in garden, paddock and non game scent areas.

 

Steady to thrown fur and feather dummies everywhere.

 

Will retrieve fur and feather dummys to my feet :lol:

 

Not gun-shy

 

excellent temprement

 

hunts well in thick cover e.g hedges, brambles etc (slows him down) :good:

 

Bad points:

 

No control if he has just flushed a pheasant or on a very strong scent.

 

hunts in range for a bit but will then pull out in front whilst hunting strong game scents and not do any commands.

 

Not steady to birds flushing over him or falling near by.

 

Plays/retrieves(eventually) rabbits and pheasants.

 

Sometimes stands looking at me when i blow the stop whistle instead of sitting.

 

No real pattern or range when hunting yet - improving well though.

 

hasnt yet learnt the "hold" command

 

i feel he has alot of potential but im just sort of stuck on experience and knowledge now and need the help from you lot to point me in the right direction. All part of my learning curve i guess. :lol:

 

Thanks

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It sounds like you have a very good start on this dog.

 

For me I would concentrate on two areas with this dog. First would be his sit whistle I would get him on lead and work this everywhere. If he does not sit as soon as you pip the whistle put him in to position using a mechanical sit......lift up on the lead and push back, (not down), on his rump. So I would pip the whistle count 1, 2 and put him there. Start this on the short lead and progress out on the long lead.

 

The other area I would work would be with the game sent and flushing and bolting game. Get him on a long line and everytime he starts to get out to far give a pop. Everytime he starts to chase a bird give a pop....no bird....and a sit. Everytime he wants to chase a rabbit give a pop ....no bird, if you are not having a helper shoot it....and a sit. If you plan on having a gunner shoot the rabbit and by all means mix these up some, give a sit whistle....if he does not sit do not shoot and sit him down. If he does sit shoot the bunny and then when you are ready send him for the retrieve. Be sure to mix in some misses aswell so that he learns to hunt up and that there is not a dead bird or rabbit after everyshot.

 

Work him on heeling in game areas along with all of his other obediance commands on lead until it is second nature to him. If you put game up while working so much the better after the second week this will allow you to correct under distractions.

 

The general rule of thumb is train the exercises in three types of cover, each time training with no distraction, then light distraction, then heavy distractions. So basically your back garden....nice grass no cover......then an area that has light cover, a field with medium grass, ......then full huntingcover. In each case use no distractions, light distractions and heavy distraction. In each case start on a leash, then a long line, and then off lead. When you get into trouble back up to the lead and work it for a few days beside you. Remember if you cant control him at your side you will never control him 20 yards out.

 

Hope this helps. If you are having problems with a specific exercise drop a note and I will try to help you through it.

 

NTTF

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