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Seperating rifle from stock


Lloyd90
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I was just wondering how I take my barrel out of the stock. The stock on my CZ 550 is more to one side than the other.

I was just going to take it out and put it back in n see if I can align it a lil better before I start sanding it down :wub:

Just Ive never really done anything like it so am a bit skeptical about breaking the gun (or just not knowing how to take it

apart n out it back lol )

 

Any ideas please guys ? :wub:

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i used to be timid when it came to splitting down guns. now i`ll tackle anything except a pcp. just take your time and remove the stock bolts and trigger guard screws if there are some. remember where the screws came from and build it back the same way. honestly there is nothing to it.

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Just lay it on a table (with a soft table cloth), scope rails down, and unscrew the bolts on the bottom of the action. There's nothing more scientific than that. When you come to reassemble it, you may find a torque gauge useful, but it's not essential. You need need to be consistent with the way you reassemble the rifle, taking care to to overdo anything.

 

I've just bedded a walnut-stocked rifle of mine, which has shaved 0.5 MOA off the groups it spits out.

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Have had a 550 American for years, just take out the 2 bolts. one behind the trigger guard and the other in front of either the floor plate or the magazine slot, remove the trigger guard and it should just come apart. It may need rebedding, as CZ are a bit of a scrooge on the bedding material.

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Took it out n put it back in :D Much easier than I thought haha :rolleyes: Glad I did it now :lol:

 

Think its still touvhing ever so slightly, you can slide a £10 down the barrel but its quite a bit of resistance once you get to the bit I think its touching, its certainly tighter by there :yes: Might have ti sand it down a bit and take a bit off that side :lol:

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It's pretty staightforward to do. . Put some masking tape on the outside of the stock where it is tight, and with a pen, arrow the area.

A short length of cental heating pipe, wrapped some fine to medium sandpaper, will do. Be sure to seal the woodwork before reassembling. :rolleyes:

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How do you seal the woodwork ? With varnish ? Do you need a specific one or will any do as its not visible on the stock ?

 

Putting scope on it on tuesday so will get out n see if it zero's. Might try n get it sanded down 2moz :good:

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How do you seal the woodwork ? With varnish ? Do you need a specific one or will any do as its not visible on the stock ?

 

Putting scope on it on tuesday so will get out n see if it zero's. Might try n get it sanded down 2moz :good:

 

A good polyurethane varnish will do. It stops moisture getting in to the open woodwork which can then warp the forend.

One of the missed reasons for free floating a barrel, is that for field work, you can be shooting off sticks, a bipod , wall, owt. Not like bench rest, where you have all the sandbags etc to rest on, so there can be different pressure points on the stock, depending on how you are shooting. So, if the barrel is floated, this should alleviate any discrepancies.

Most field rifles seem to improve with floating, BUT, and a big BUT, some actually improve accuracy with upward pressure on the forend.

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