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22-250


madmanx
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:rolleyes::lol: My variation for a 22-250 + sound mod has just arrived on my doorstep this morning,i have decided on a relex t8 sound mod ,but i am undecided over the gun.I am considering the tika 22-250 t3 lite with synthetic stock,as my budget for the gun is around £500-£600 also what magnification scope would suffice for foxing?Cheers Steve
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the rifle you have chosen is a good one, i would go for a schmidt and bender 8x56 hungarian ontop of that, for about 380, 8x is fine for foxing and the fixed zoom keeps the light gathering good.

 

as for the mod, i hear good things about the wildcat mods, they are £50 extra and can be stripped, so consider those.

 

i have no experiance, but have learnt to my peril to say the t8 is the best silencer for the job.

 

enjoy the rig, will be a fine one

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If you can afford it, get a scope with ZOOM and Parallax adjustment for shots over about 150yrds.

From the scopes that I have looked through, I would say a Swarovski 50mm object lens collects more light than a Schmidt & Bender 56mm object lens.

 

If you really want something different, why not try one of these from http://www.peterlawman.co.uk/accessories.php

atncombined.jpg

 

Then you can tell us all about them.

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Hi steve, sorry about this but i know of three people with reflex t8 mods that have rusted through within a year. The problem with them is you cant strip them to clean them, they are well maintained on the outside but the problem is on the inside. One was advised to give them a good blast with wd40 into the exit hole, which he did, after fireing several shots it started smoking and had to go home as he couldnt even see through his scope :shoot: . Try a PES stainless and they can be cleaned inside and out.

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Madmanx, I was looking for a nice scope to put on my Tikka .243 last year, and tried a couple of scopes with a 50mm object lens.

The only trouble with a scope with a parallax ring is that it takes the front lens up to @ 60mm in diameter, which means high rings and a high head position. Fit a 56mm scope with P/A and you will need extra high mounts which really put the scope in a very high position.

When choosing a variable scope look through it on the highest magnification to see how clear the sight picture is. If it starts to get a bit fuzzy on the highest setting then don’t bother with it because it will be even worse when it starts to get dark, or in woodland where the light is not so good.

I ended up choosing a 3-9X50 Weaver scope without P/A. This meant that the scope was actually 50mm at the object lens and not 60mm, which meant I could fit lower mounts.

The scope is only @1mm off the top of the barrel and I can get my head right down onto the cheek-piece and look straight into the eye-bell. It is superb in low light conditions and as clear as a bell even on 9X power. As for P/A…no problem as the scope focuses from @ 40yds out to further than I want to shoot without any problems on the highest setting.

Remember, a cheap scope soon becomes expensive if you have to sell it at a loss to buy a more expensive one later on. :shoot:

G.M.

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