Albert 888

Only problem is your proberbly towards 100bhp. Standard I'm 2hp,very rough estimate I'm 4.5 - 7.5bhp I need everything optimum.

I'm addicted to learning about 2 strokes and making mine get past 50mph with what I have. Paint I'm poor at so will have to get someone else to for me.

I didn't know of carb icing on carbs, my mate a work told me about the old kawasakis and the slides used to stick open.. I have made another manifold it's shorter so will be a lot closer now. Just picked this up today,no compression, big end rattling and main drive bearings goosed, now my plan is to have this new red one as a general runabout suspension lights all the mod cons, then use my gold one as a sunny day bike,so I'm going to be buying more performance bits to go on the race bike and use the stuff I already have for the red one.

Both look good guys,I can't wait to get my little moped in paint.

New 19mm phbg carb, 60 choke,45 starter,262 atomiser, 95 main jet, w7 needle second clip up. Starts ticks over and revs up great, 38mph max boggy as hell running very rich, going to drop the pilot to 40-42 and go from there. My intake froze it sucked that much cold air in.

My dream build is s mobylette, too much going on on them for me at this point in time,they have variators and loads of other stuff I don't understand yet.

I rebuilt a 280cc ktm exc-f, it was originally a 250. Little auto 2 strokes can be dismantled stripped and fully rebuilt in a couple of hours, if you have all the bits.

Thanks, I've been following an American two stroke tuner,he specialises in the puch and Moby, two strokes are quite complex to tune, I'm currently working port timing and tuning and how many degree's to take them to.

Inlet will be just above ambient temperature I think. The carb sucks air like a trooper, my exhaust is also larger and heavily modified, I did think about a venturie type stack for air flow, I fell the bigger dellortro will work better as it's more suited to my exhaust. Im after speed with torque. Had a few vw's my favourite was my t25 2.1i

It runs better without a filter,will try one on the 19mm one. Im slighty rich on purpose, I don't want to cook the piston or head,also running 60:1 premix . I have 3 jets in the phb,pilot 40, choke 50, and main 80. W7 needle 3Rd clip up. Temps are good I want to be in the high 300's f,not exceeding 400f. Needles and clips arrive tomorrow, so bigger carb more air flow,bigger jet and hopefully more mph.

Only a couple of mph to go. I need to I raise and widen the ports in the cylinder, if I pointed the carb forwards it would suck water dust and allsorts off the front tyre. The bigger carb that I'm still waiting for bits for will put me in the right direction I need to go. Home made air blade, came in a Box of bits I bought.

OK,I have got to the point where anything I do isn't altering speed, I'm currently sourcing bits for a larger diameter carb- dellortro phbg 19mm, the one I have on is a phbg 17.5mm phbg copy, I have made a new intake manifold out of a bsp swept elbow to get better air flow but still no difference, the exhaust is now fully modified and sprayed with 650deg c paint, my max head temp is 370f around town around 30mph on the open road, I'm running at 310f wide open throttle , my plug chops show I'm lean at 1/3throttle 30mph, rich at full wot. I cut 12mm off the manifold end and now I have a wide powerband. Still only 48-50mph on the flat,my cylinder needs some serious port work, and clutch needs tuning also, currently engaging at 23lb of force,my timing is at 4mm btdc should be at 1.5mm but head temps are OK and my cdi retards at higher rpm.

https://shedheads.net/raptor-liner/ Seen this on a couple of cars and vans,it's not a show finish looks like the soft protective flooring under swings and slides on parks. You can spray or roller on.

Well after it being off the road since the 20the of December, I was waiting for a slot at a garage,they kept fobbing me off,they diagnosed it as the torque plate, I took it to another garage, they had a probe around with a camera and found the starter wasn't returning causing it to catch the flywheel, problem sorted and cost £117, which I think was very reasonable.

Cheers. It's been relatively faultless, had it for over 2 years.

OK I'm 80% sure my torque plate-flexi plate from the crank to the torque converter has split or is damaged. I have an awful rotating rattling sound coming from the bell housing,it's intermittent, checked all the usual places for rattles. Plate cost £6-£40. How much would It cost to have one fit. I could do it myself but I don't have a suitable work area to do it and the transfer gearbox is quite big. I have it booked in tomorrow and have a quote,just curious .

They have indeed, its a good old mixed bunch of all sorts on here

I have since but another exhaust cut it in half and removed a baffle cone, welded it back together with the mig,that was hard work,changed the rear sprocket from a 45t to a 40, fixed 3 uprated clutch springs and set to grip at higher rpm,I managed to get 48mph on the flat and 55 downhill, since that I have been playing with the jetting, popping head gaskets and pulling head studs out. Im down to 40mph on the flat and it's starving itself of fuel. Carb is a dellortro phbg 17.5mm main jet 80 and pilot jet 40. I have never been able to open the air screw,hence dropping from a 50 pilot jet to a 40. I can now open the air screw,doing this scavanges fuel by suction from the bowl through the pilot jet not just relying on the main jet. I need to alter the float hight now. Also bored out my old 14mm Bing carb to 15.5mm just incase I can't tune this dellortro type one. Im currently waiting for larger jet for it. Hopefully pictures will show below.

Be careful it's very addictive. Im on with a puch project and it's quite involving. It's all about planning and sourcing bits. Be cautious on forums because everyone thinks they are right. Set a price limit and stick to it. Google images and pintrest are good for ideas. Hope you enjoy it and it all goes well. Im chasing torque and usable speed. Paint will be when I archive 50mph on the flat.

Don't think it's the clutch,big end little end noise. I will do it myself, atleast I can buy all the proper bits and fit rather than risk them fitting poor quality stuff. Love 4ts, only 2smoke I would entertain is an beta xtrainer. I have issues remembering to use the rear brake,Engine does it for me now. No doubt if I get better I may opt for a 2 smoke but I'm also getting older and a more sensible :-)

Well I nipped up the tensioner,slightly better, I then proceed carefully to undo it whilst running to create an issue, the family chain makes a light fast ticking noise when lose,so it's not the chain. Last new piston I did what I thought was best and did a break in procedure whith fully synthetic oil,that doesn't work with a 4t as the rings need to bed into the bore, oil was blowing out the breather and popped out engine seals the pressure was going past the rings. I know now. Will have a proper clean strip down and inspect when my car is sorted.

I have,and I have also run it with it off,still the same,it's definitely engine noise.

Will have another listen in the morning, I'm thinking if rattling cam chain, just looked my cam chain adjuster up on the Internet, apparently nip up with fingers then add 1/2 - 3/4 of a turn then tighten lock nut. I have had an engine sieze on me early this year and don't want another major rebuild. New bike now so probably just being safe.

It's got a manual chain tensioner, my last had an auto one,do you mean the plastic skids the chain runs on. It's not a hard job doing it, the worst bit is running it in right,I did it wrong last time,on the 3Rd time I got it right,then it dropped a valve and goosed the head, so 4 times to get it right.

I'm just preparing, will give it a thorough clean and do a partial strip down and inspect. Vertex piston kit £144 Prox con rid £114. Gasket and seal set £60-140 Cam chain £60 Just a quick summary.