Albert 888

OK I have an 2011 xcf 350, don't know how many hours it's done, but Im guessing it's long overdue a major overall. It's sounding a bit rough. What kind of a price am I looking at for a rebuild, everything works as it should,loads of compression, goes in and out of gears well, it could just be the cam chain or something but if anyone knows the ktm 4 stroke engine it's quite a task stripping it all down, sourcing the parts then running it in. I rebuilt the 250 version with a 280 kit and had a nightmare, so just weighing up my options.

Throw away nation, home mechanics of this age give up when they have changed all the parts the computer told them to.

I changed my mind,I like the old e-f reg shape Nissan patrol.

I did it got to 50mph down hill,new exhaust, gearing, jets and clutch to sort next.

They look well,hope mine will look half as good,I'm still sorting my power out,got it to a steady 45mph on the flat,waiting on a more suitable exhaust then I can try some different transmission fluid then tune my uprated clutch to the powerbond,change gear ratio, clean tank out,fit disc brakes,do some welding then paint. New lights,not very good,I only have 10w to play with,not getting a constant supply, I have fitted a regulator rectifier.

My current range rover p38 2.5d 1996.

It rips up a treat,only problem is I have managed to pull one of the 6mm head stud threads,oh the joys,doesn't help being a hairy bottomed fitter.

Woop woop,from the Netherlands, hpi,cdi mini rotor,a massive 10w lighting coil :-) (led front lights en route) clutch shims,kick-start springs for the clutch(higher rpm grab). Hopefully it will be grab and go soon,this bit of kit is a tad above the level I was going, but what the hell,you only live once. Shame about the weather, test rides won't be until roads are dry and clear. All the grannies at the retirement home will love.

Not much to loosen up really only a couple of bearings and to run the bore in and bed the rings. Should be good to go from scratch. Im delving into the electronic wizardry of hpi cdi and curves at the moment. Chasing power and speed,Basically you throw your old points, stator,flywheel, coil away and fit an electronic ignition with a mini rotor,and a new cdi. This will retard and advance the ignition automatically once set up right.

Tidy. Im awaiting hpi cdi electronic ignition at the mo,still nor enough torque to drag two people around tho.

New race seat, bracket fabricated and not the most comfortable but looks great.

Clip-ons came today,fit a treat, just need to cut the access off when I'm happy with positioning.

OK changed the main jet to 76 it was about 78, bog has gone a little low down, speed wise it's 40-45 flat and down hill with the wind behind me,headwind you can knock 5 mph off ?. Will put a fresh plug in and check it after a run.

Carb and gaskets are all fully matched allowing maximum flo. Used a piston stop,I use dti's day in and out,it will still give the same result. Im happy with tdc,same every time all marked up. Im concentrating on running of it before body work and paint.

Changed my mix to 50:1 now it's had some running in, factory is 17tdc 16-17 tho points gap. Put the kit on strobed it and I was up at 27bdtc,hence the dremel work on the stator . Im rich on purpose as I can lean it out and be on the safe side,What does WOT stand for please. Will have play with the jets and needle one at a time and see what happens. Appreciate the info. Two smoke tuning is new to me. Ideally I want to fit a electronic 12v mini rotor hdi cdi with a curve. But still working out which is best.

E50 timing 70cc,race crank,mildly ported-case matched,b8 plug,17.5 dellortro copy carb with the standard jets it came with, air screw 1.5 turns out,Idle screw spring cut to get more Idle,40:1 mix. It rides well apart from bogging a little low down,40-45mph on the flat I'm 6ft1" and 13st stock gearing 16 45 I think. 16-17bdtc timed points at 015", I wanted them at 16-18, I have dremeled my stator slots as far as physicaly possible. So I'm at my max without advancing my timing. Plug comes out wet and black the white part is dark brown so I guessing I'm running rich,no temp gauge so I'ts mere guess work with my hand,I can put it on the fins but not for long,its definitely 200+.

OK more fiddling today, I managed to drop the forks by 50mm,stage one was to remove 4 washers each side that set the preload, that dropped it by 20mm,so once I worked it out, I cut 30mm off the threaded spring guide -preload adjuster,this dropped the forks by 50mm altogether. The picture is the 20mm drop. Now I can lower the fork tubes in the clamps to a reasonable hight. Still more fine tuning with the fork Set up but I will do that when my tyres are sorted. Put some flat bars on just to mock the position up.

That's the way to do it, Good luck,these Chinese pit bike things made of cheese wouldn't last as long as your Honda.

I haven't got a mrs or boy friend ?

Nice one,looks well,has 20cc on mine with a kit on, from standard, I'm feeling a little upset now, I also want some wider tyres, but that means more grinding and welding. Oh the joys. Currently trying to work out if I need cdi hpi ignition with a curve. Want and need are two different things.

OK moving on, All front end backtogther with appropriate spacers sealed bearings and a retro fitted drum holder,I'm going disc brake front, need to source a disk. I managed to fit my old 6V bulb inside a 12V bulb,basically I broke a 12 V bulb removed everything drilled 3 holes through the base soldered 3 wires onto the fitting then onto my 6V bulb,it now all fits nicely inside the white enduro style light,it's temporary until I decide what I'm doing,rear light can't figure out it how it works obviously its one wire to earth then one wire is lights on and the other wire is the brake light it's not connected up right somewhere . I took the silly seat off as I don't want it too look like a cafe racer,removed mudguards, I'm pondering over making my own or not having any. Still need to lower my fork interals,I'm waiting for a top yoke nut and clip on bars. Managed to dremel my stator plate again point gap now 015" gap and 17-18btdc timing. Still need to retard it a few more degrees,I want the points gap to be 17-18 fully open,I'm on full retard so seeing the tdc timing with the points gap.

Puch is a project to keep me busy,got a ktm xcf 350 for play days and green lanes. Don't think a 70cc 4 Stoke would be much goodd

What he said.

Ha, I'm a 4 clacker rider,mate has a antisocial 2 smoke. Love the engine braking on the 4.

Demon x pit bike. Was looking at the derbi gpr 50 and the aprilia rs 50 ones but these seemed to fit the bill better. Just need to shorten the spring and space them out to drop them a bit then put some heavier oil in to harden the damping and shorten the travel.