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loomer

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  1. I've got a set of Mandel choke for my Lanber and they are absolutely fine.
  2. That's a real shame. Lovely guns for the money.
  3. Chuck 1/4 and 1/2 in and forget about them. If you are still missing 'normal' targets it's not the chokes causing the problems, When you get good enough to choose which side of the bird you are going to kill it on, then tighten them up. Edit: Although it is a good excuse to blame the chokes when you have a go at trap shooting and miss every ******* thing like I do.
  4. There are some real bargains out there at the moment if you hunt about a bit. Getting my barrels back from next week, after sending them to be reblued, then it gets put back together. They are just different, and much more elegant than most other guns. Always a good talking point on the shooting ground too.
  5. What everyone else has said about a Lanber. Really don't bother about barrel length. I'm 6'5 and mainly shoot with a 27.5" barrel. Choose something that fits and feels right, then enjoy.
  6. I know it's not the same model, but this just popped up on Guntrader so thought I would post it here.... http://www.guntrader.co.uk/Guns-For-Sale/Hellis-Chas_Shotgun_Sidelock-Ejector_For-Sale_110928164016215 Looks like a stunning gun.
  7. Good point re the responsibility. To be honest, the case hardening is my least favourite option for this gun. Undecided whether or not to do anything to it at all.
  8. I am in the middle of restoring an 1891 hammer gun from W&J Davis of Birmingham ( with the help of a few vastly more experienced people than me) The woodwork has been immaculately refinished, thanks to Straightshooter1, and the barrels will be reblued shortly. My dilemma is to case harden or not to case harden. The receiver and mechanism are slowly being cleaned and stripped back and I think there may be some evidence of case hardening on there. I don't want the gun to look brand new when done, so I am slightly tempted just to leave the metal work as is. The other option, as suggested by my local gunsmith, is to blue the hammers. Would this have been done on a gun of this age? What is the general consensus on here as to a nice finish on an old gun? All suggestions/ comments welcome.
  9. Bought mine as my first gun last year. It's a 1997 27.5" sporter multichoke at 7lb 4oz. Just had the inertia springs replaced but other than that it has been faultless. Can't remember which others guns I was choosing between, but have never regretted choosing the Lanber. The guys I shoot with love it compared to their £2k Brownings and Berettas, and want first refusal if I should ever want to get rid of it, which in all fairness I probably never will. Only downside is that it has a stain on the stock where someone had a removable stock extension on it and must have left in in the cabinet with it on for years. It may go to Straightshooter to be refurbed after he has finished with my W&J Davis hammer gun.
  10. Love mine. Great little gun.
  11. Mandel do extended chokes for a lanber. Around £100 for a set of six, so much cheaper than anything else I've found.
  12. Drill through the plasterboard into the wall and use some chemfix to secure some threaded bar to the wall, then just fix the cabinet to those with some nuts and washers. Easy.
  13. Very interested. Cheers for the info, redtailhawk. Only thing I forgot to ask in the PM was what size chambers it is.
  14. How much life do you reckon there is in the barrels? Looks lovely for the price. Edit: My apologies, that is an awfully leading question for someone with your reputation for quality budget guns on here. Hopefully you get what I meant. Very interested, especially in a sbs with wood that looks like that, and a man sized LOP . Hopefully the pitting is not too bad.
  15. I've got a set of extended mandel chokes for my Lanber. £90 for a set of 6 plus case, I think I paid. No complaints at all. Sure, they are not the best to look at, but does that really matter?
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