1066
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Posts posted by 1066
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The Burris Signature rings are excellent. The plastic inserts hold well and won't damage the scope.
The 25mm (1") rings have inserts available from 0 to 20 thou in 5 thou steps. The 30mm rings only have 0 or +/- 10 thou I believe.
These guys have the full range and good service: In fact I ordered another set my self today for a .223 Savage.
http://www.opticswarehouse.co.uk/products.asp?cat=Burris+Signature+Zee+Weaver+Rifle+Scope+Rings
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A great little starter rifle - My Grandson started aged about 10 with my old Jaguar. He's now progressed to a HW30s, another outstanding junior rifle.
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You should see how much stuff is under the bed and on top of the wardrobes, and in the cupboard etc. etc.
lol And I'm still looking at bringing back at least another 2 suitcases full of stuff when we go back to the US!!.I love the colour coordinated shelf brackets.
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I feel, if you're going to shoot HV ammo in the LR you would have been better to stick with the HMR.
The real plus point of the .22LR is it's ability, when moderated and shooting subsonic ammo, to be almost silent.
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Good point - had valves on the brain recently - been changing some TRV's on some radiators.
I'm actually referring to the 2-3 mm aperture in the compression chamber where compressed air is squeezed through to impart energy into the pellet. It was assumed that dry firing a springer would cause the piston to impact into the end of the compression chamber - turns out that the piston still bounces off the compressed air in the same way that it would do if a pellet were there. Might feel "harsher" but effectively it's no different to firing with a pellet in place.
Not meant as a dig Flynn, we all have brain farts.
I know what you are saying. Back in the 1970's Gerard Cardew carried out quite extensive research about exactly what happens inside the cylinder when you pull the trigger, very interesting reading.
However, over the years I have repaired a good many airguns and on many I have found the end of the cylinder and piston head mangled by dry firing. Older designs with a leather washer held in place by a central nut/bolt are the main problem with stripped threads and riveted over ends.
On a new rifle it may not cause an immediate problem, but as you say, it's harsh. There's a terrific amount of energy stored in a main spring and to dry fire a springer makes the mechanic in me cringe. The scope on a springer already had a hard time, dry firing probably won't improve it any.
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Could have swore in my original post "mil dots and bullet trajectories confusing" ! Please take this post as intended, a tried and tested simple method for zeroing a scope for various ranges. Any input to help explain is welcome but please bear in mind it's not for experienced people in the know who could cloud what I am trying to do.
That's an excellent tip Paul, especially for the newer shooter. A lot of us "old hands" take these things fore granted and these tips tend to be picked up along the way, especially if you've served your apprenticeship from low powered plinking airguns - full sized airguns - FAC - 22lr etc.
There are many shooter, however, who don't progress through the ranks. Just jump in to a local gunshop with a fat wallet and walk out with a £1,500 air rifle /scope and not a clue.
I made this short video for a mate who was having trouble zeroing his scope (not an inexperienced shooter) It's now has around 350,000 views - I thought it was basic stuff everyone knew.
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Except that it's been shown that dry firing a springer doesn't result in the piston smashing into the valve as many people assumed for years and years, so it's not really a no-no any longer.
Which valve are we talking about there Flynn? You're not getting confused with you're cambelt breaking are you?
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O.
The rifle and myself can shoot factory ammo quite well sub 1/2" at 100.
Stick with the factory - If you can shoot consistent 5 shot x .5moa groups you'll struggle to beat that unless you have a super custom barrel of some kind and top end accuracy loads are not much cheaper than factory. If they still hang together at 300 yards they must be on a node so shoot some through the chrony to see where they are.
The OCW system is becoming more widely used and seems to produce good results so give it a go. Personally, for consistency, I prefer to FL resize every time.
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Thx to IWM Duxford I now have a to scale drawing....
Thanks for all the replies - much appreciated.
Of course I guess he knows he must paint them all pink
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I have to older version from Aldi - maybe two years old. Very pleased with the results and no problems. I will get the newer version if I can find one.
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It's a savage Edge
I don't know anything about the Edge but I can recommend the 12 series. I personally wouldn't go for anything that was a "package".
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I have a pair of Savages in 6mmBR and 6.5x284 and have had a Howa 1500 in .243.
The Howa was a pretty, handy little rifle. It had a thumbhole stock and heavy stainless barrel.
The factory trigger is adjustable to a point but only so-so. The stainless was prone to rust unless you treated just like a blued rifle. The receiver scope mounting holes were drilled off line. Accuracy was OK'ish but about 1 moa was about the best I could screw out of it even with a bedding job and a lot of load development. It had a 1-10 barrel and struggled to stabilise any bullet over 95 grains.
I love the Savages - Admittedly they are heavy target type rifles but stunningly accurate. I have just recently shot a Savage .223 sporting rifle and now seriously considering getting one. As I built my 6mmbr out of bits I like the idea that you can change the barrel with a spanner and no smithing charges required.
5 shots at 220yards
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Bbbb but it's sporterised. Like a Gold Flash with disc brakes.
Nice gun though, hope you enjoy it. Used to clean my uncle's P17 when I was a kid. Would like to know more about full-bore rifle shooting. Are there different classes for different degrees of modifications and sights?
Yes, there are different classes for almost any type of rifle, from what you might call standard target rifle, typically any range from, say, 300yds to 1000yds, shot with something like a .308. Only iron sights (aperture) and only a sling for support.
At the other end there's the F-Class (open) Heavy rifles, usually large calibre, high power scopes and the rifle supported from a fancy rest at the front and a leather bag at the butt. Too easy you might say - just try it. The "V" bull at 1000yds is only 5 inches across.
There are classes for classic service rifles with battle sights and classes where you could compete with a standard foxing rig.
Just have a look at this results sheet of a recent Bisley meeting - you could shoot in a Muzzle loading rifle class or a Rook and Rabbit rifle class at 200 yds standing etc.
http://galleryrifle.com/classifications/trafalgar-scores/
Here's my F-Class rifle, a Savage 12F 6.5x284 on the 1000yd firing point at Bisley.
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That looks good Albert - I had a very nice P14 several years ago and sold it for a pittance to clear a slot on my ticket. One of the more stupid things I've regretted. (Did the same thing with a 650cc BSA Gold Flash - Oh and a 350cc Velocette ah, and a very early Original 50 air rifle, Ho Hum!)
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Using this site:
I take the tip about buying new brass but I'm not planning on taking this to the max.
This really needs to be your first step - The case and case prep are where it all starts from, If you're looking for accuracy and consistency then you need a good foundation to build on. Clean and tumbled cases will also help with diagnosing problems.
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I think those guesswork figures won't be far out Albert. The BC of the 155 gn scenar's is .046, it should be within a few clicks either way.
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I have 45 moa adjustment on my scope in 1/8 clicks one full roatation gives me 7.5 moa. So a zero at 100m leaves me with around 11.5 moa of elvation left,if I fit a 20moa rail that will then give me a usable 31.5moa and I think that will only take me to around 400-500 yards,so still not ehat im wanting. Im going to have a very long hard think about what I am wanting to achive and where I go from there. Im getting bogged down with to much info and trying to do too much in a short time. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction Albert.
31 moa with a .308 should get you well out there but not quite to 1000yds.
Just guessing some figure here - Velocity 2,700fps, scope/bore height 1.7", 155gn bullet, CE 0.5 and zeroed at 100 yds.
100yds = 0
200 = 1.85 moa
300 = 4.49 moa
400 = 7.56 moa
500 = 11.2 moa
600 = 14.88 moa
800 = 24.01 moa
1000 = 35.48 moa
14.88 moa at 600 yards is 93.5 inches.
Edit:
Don't forget that 1 moa is 1" at 100 yds but 1 moa at 6000 yds is around 6"
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I use "strelok". It's easy to use and can be used on any calibre.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.borisov.strelok&hl=en_GB
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Does 20 moa at 100 yrds equate to 20" more elevation at 100 yrds. The rail would be better for me than the rings as it would be less hastle for me.
Thanks Albert
More or less. Rule of thumb is about 1" per MOA at 100yds (actual 1.047")
You really need to find out how much adjustment you have in total in the scope and how much you will need. This will depend on your maximum range you will be shooting and the load you will be using.
Run the figures through a ballistic program like:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.borisov.strelok&hl=en_GB
This will tell you how much you need.
In my experience with Howa's I've found the scope mounting screws on the action are not always accurately drilled so if fitting a rail you might find you run out of windage one way or the other, using the rings with inserts will overcome this problem and are very easy to juggle around and line up.
It depends how much you want to spend on a rail but I've just recently fitted one of these to a Savage and although they are aluminium I think they are good value.
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If you fit a 20moa rail it will get you well past 600yds. An easier alternative solution would be to get some Burris rings with the plastic inserts. These work very well and allow you to centre up your scope (or give more elevation) easily.
If your scope has a 25mm tube there are a greater range of inserts available, if it's 30mm there is still +20moa inserts available. They fit on a standard Weaver base.
http://burrisoptics.com/sigrings.html
http://www.opticswarehouse.co.uk/products.asp?cat=Burris+Signature+Zee+Weaver+Rifle+Scope+Rings
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its all do-able and perfectly safe to use...but when fired commercial brass is available so cheap I would question the extra effort involved
+1 on that Bewsh. If these were a really obscure calibre and brass was very hard to come by I might consider the effort worthwhile but good quality, once fired, boxer primed 308's must be just about the easiest/cheapest cases to find.
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The dies I use have had all lock nuts replaced with lee ones top job
Deershooter
+1 I use the Lee "O" ring locking nuts even my "up market" Redding Comp and bushing dies. I feel the "O" ring contributes to making the most accurate ammunition I can produce.
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Great shooting and good for the sport too. Can any one tell me why, in the Mens trap the clays were easy to see breaking with a cloud of pink dust but not in the Womens trap?
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Simply excellent - What fantastic workmanship.
Although it can't begin to compare with those works of art, here's a little one I made many years ago.
Foxing with wi-fi
in General Shooting Matters
Posted
That's an excellent bit of kit.
Did you make it yourself?