1066
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Posts posted by 1066
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Iv been putting fiocchi hp 40g through my cz and am really happy. Less than 1" 5 shot groups at 60yards, 2" drop at 100. Next to no flyers and at only £4.50.
I tested some of the Fiocchi HP's in this video. My results were just the same, about an inch at 65 yards. I used Eley HP's for many years but have now switched to RWS HP.
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Might be worth checking it hasn't got a live one up the spout too.
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I enjoy shooting my BP pistols when I get chance. I have a .44 Remington 1858 revolver (Italian copy) and a nice .36 single shot "Le Page" duelling pistol.
Although the Colt has a lot of fans I think the Remington is a better pistol. The Remington has a solid frame and would be a better choice if you were thinking of "Target shooting" rather than just having a bang.
My Remington has adjustable sights, many don't, If you were thinking of ever using it in BP competition there are separate classes for fixed sights etc. The down side of the Remington is that it has a very small grip, try one to see how it suits your hand. There are other revolvers out there like the Rogers & Spencer and the Ruger Old Army which is a modern BP revolver "in the spirit" of the cowboy guns.
The biggest problem when buying a used PB pistol is that BP is quite corrosive so the pistol must be well cleaned. Make sure that nipples can be unscrewed, the cylinder removed and the sight adjustment working if fitted and watch for any pitting in the barrel.
When loaded correctly they can be just as accurate as a modern pistol - It just takes loads of practice to get the best out of them.
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I think 100yds with a Buckmaster is a bit optimistic - I've shot several, they are a good fun gun and seem quite reliable, but accuracy wise, I have found them to be about in the 10/22 class. Something like a 50-70 yard rifle in the field would be realistic and only then after careful ammo selection.
They don't begin to compare with an accurate bolt rifle like a CZ/Brno/Sako/Anschutz or the better semi-autos.
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You can try these date codes. There were several styles of the GP, some take-down versions etc. Later ones were made by Webley and poorer quality with circlips holding the receiver pins in place.
http://personal.swayzee.com/jayb/datecode1a.jpg
http://personal.swayzee.com/jayb/datecode2a.jpg
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I can happen, on even respectable rifles, that the scope rail/mounting holes are not exactly in line with the barrel. I have found the best answer to this problem is to use the Burris signature rings to keep the optics reasonably centred. These rings have adjustable inserts especially for this type of problem and by the way they are designed they won't stress the scope as shimming would.
The rings also work well if you need a bit more elevation, either stretching the .22 out well past 100 yds or maybe using something like a .243 out past 600yds where most scopes would run out of adjustment.
.http://www.burrisoptics.com/uksite/sigrings.html
They're not expensive, don't mark the scope, hold the scope firmly, you can juggle the inserts for up-down/left right or even diagonally if you have a real problem.
http://www.opticswarehouse.co.uk/products.asp?cat=Burris+Signature+Zee+Weaver+Rifle+Scope+Rings
If you're still having a problem zeroing a scope have a quick look at this short video. I shot this with my phone camera so it's not top quality but it's already had nearly 1/4 million views.
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I tried this and it works perfectly thanks.but getting the rifle out of the set concrete was a bit of a problem.
Ahh! I forgot to mention you should have covered the rifle with a release agent - Butter or boot polish would work ok.
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have you used one of these lee perfect powder measure's
http://leeprecision.com/perfect-powder-measure.html
i got a second hand one any opinion's on them??
colin
The Lee measure works well - in fact it works just as well as any measure. All measures work on the same principal, just a mechanised version of the Lee dippers.
Laurie Holland did a review/comparison with several different measures, from the cheap little Lee at about £25 up the Harrell at about £400, sure the Harrell looks like it should be in an operating theatre, but was it any more accurate - No.
Review HERE
I know many shooters are happy to load charges thrown directly from the measure, personally I throw a grain or so light and trickle to weight on the beam scale.
To get anywhere near consistent charges with a measure it takes practice and a systematic routine. Just think how a drop tube increases the density of the powder in a case, the same thing happens in the chamber of the measure it there are unwanted vibration.
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Which scales to get as I head towards reloading. Digital or balance? Which makes to avoid and which to aim for?
I am after an RCBS press in the Cov area if anyone has one.
I would suggest a simple beam scale. I would avoid the Lee, not that it's not accurate but it's very fiddly to set and change the weight. All the RCBS range, the 502, 505, 5-10, and 10/10 all use exactly the same floating agate bearings so none is more accurate than the other. The difference is in the poise system, how you set the weights.
The Redding No 2 is also a good simple scale. A beam scale will last you a lifetime if it's not abused, a digital will be in the bin in a couple of years.
I have found Optics warehouse the best place for scales for price and service.
I have around 25 different beam scales and a couple of digitals, the digitals are good for weighing brass and bullets but I always use a beam for powder.
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Sussex do seem to have their eye on the ball
I've been a shooting customer of theirs for around 40 years and it's only in the last 6 months that I've seen a real improvement in the service provided.
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I also had a surprisingly quick and easy variation come through from Lewes just before Christmas. Excellent service and much appreciated.
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These are very good, trajectory is 2" lower than any other sub I have tried at 100 yds but groups still nice and tight from the CZI've recently switched
After many years of using Eley HP subs I have recently switched to the RWS subs. I have found that the quality of the Eleys has been quite variable over the last couple of years and often a marked difference in velocity from batch to batch.
When choosing .22 ammo you need to make a judgment based on : Accuracy, reliability, consistency, availability, cost etc. It's no good choosing a really accurate round if one in five shots jams in the semi auto, likewise the box of superb ammunition you picked up when on holiday that no one stocks for 200 miles.
Try all the brands that are available, within your budget range and will do the job.
This little test I tried here is with six different types of ammo, fairly windy so no "one hole" groups but real world conditions. - The Eley Tenex was the tightest group but is a solid point and twice the price of Eley subs.
Every one of the shots would have hit a golfball at 65 yds.
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I've seen a ton of lead thrown down range by shooters "zeroing" rifles and very few seem to have much idea of the principals involved. Many seem content to whack a couple of rounds down range then wind on a few clicks here or there and shoot another couple of rounds and so on, slowly walking their shots towards their aiming mark.
This is how I think of the problem:
If you can imagine your rifle set in a block of concrete (assuming you have an accurate rifle and ammunition) and shoot a round at a blank sheet of paper. Where that shot falls is where the barrel is pointing, if you shoot another shot or ten they should all theoretically hit the same spot.
Now, plonk a scope on the rifle, leaving your rifle still set in the block of concrete, and there's not a chance in a thousand the reticule will be lined up with you shot holes but it's a very simple matter to just wind them over to line up with the shot holes in one go, it doesn't matter if you 1/4 or 1/8, mils or mm clicks . Now the reticule and the shot holes are pointing at the same place all the rest is easy. (range, parallax, etc. etc.)
This is a quick video I shot with my phonecam of how it works.: Best viewed with a PC not a tablet or phone.
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Just get into reloading! Even with a Lee hand press and dies you will make accurate ammunition, the more attention to detail the more accurate it will be. My Howa .243 with a 1/10 barrel wouldn't shoot 100g PPU in anything like a decent group.
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I agree with the above - not cost effective, however a homemade panel to heat hot water is very cost effective.
Here's something I was playing with over the summer:-
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Been pricing up and I can do it for roughly the same as a normal dry tumbler(much smaller than your set up though)
any preference on the drum type ? Was thinking the rubber looked a better choice.
This is a bit more up market so the price is too.
http://www.manchesterminerals.co.uk/acatalog/BEACH-2-25Kgs-TUMBLER--excl--barrel--10_020.html
Yes, they look like the barrels I use - Just note that the price there is just for the tumbler, the barrel is another 50 odd quid.
Here's the real set-up:
http://www.1967spud.com/product-category/stm-tumblers/
But if was to start from scratch myself I would make my own tumbler - It's very basic and there's plenty of bits on a well know auction site. also plenty of youtube ideas.
I recently bought a spare drum from Poundstretcher for £4.99 - It was a stainless steel biscuit tin with an "o" ring seal. I stretched a couple of vacuum cleaner drive belts round it to give it traction and a threaded rod through the centre to keep the lid on.
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Over the years I've mostly used either rotary or vibrating machines with Walnut media - These give good results and the machines aren't too expensive. They're not particularly quick but if you can leave them running on the garage floor they do the job well enough.
Many will say "Why bother" or just rub the necks round with wire wool but I think starting with clean cases is one of the steps in good brass prepping. With a clean case it's much easier to see any case defects and clean case is much kinder on your dies.
For the last two or three years I have been using wet tumbling with stainless steel pins - I think this method is hard to beat, it cleans the inside, outside and primer pockets perfectly.
The downside is that it's not cheap to set up but once you have bought (or made) a suitable tumbler and got the pins there's no looking back, you'll also need some method of drying the cases.
Here's my tumbler and the results.
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Try shooting a group without the mag, loading one round at a time - If you can produce a good group then you know it's a feed/mag problem.
If still no luck then try one round at a time and the mod removed.
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If you're thinking of buying a Winchester I would advise against a .357 and go for the .44. The .357 is prone to ejector/extractor problems and spares are now virtually unobtainable.
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Can you get low powered hunting ammo for .22LR?
Here's an interesting article about low velocity .22 ammo.
http://www.shootingtimes.co.uk/features/267610/Shooting_on_a_farmyard.html
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Can you get low powered hunting ammo for .22LR?
.22 rimfire starts at the BB cap, which is about 1/4" long and shoots a 16 grain round ball at around 700 fps giving, at a guess about 15 ftlbs of energy or airgun power through to the hyper velocity, Stinger type rounds with many different types in between.
Shooting anything but standard .22 Long rifle ammunition usually means you will need to load them one at a time in a bolt action rifle. Some of these odd ball rounds have their place but very often suffer from poor accuracy.
There are also low loaded .22LR available of various types giving something like 700 fps and although these will feed normally with a bolt rifle they won't cycle a semi auto.
There is also segmented and frangiable ammunition - in fact I could go on for ages, there are dozens of different types including tracer etc. but you will have a job to beat good quality hollow pointed sub-sonic ammunition shooting a 40 grain bullet at 1000-1050 fps with about 80-90 ftlbs.
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Really don't do it. I have both semi-auto and bolt in .22LR and FAC air in .22 at about 30ftlbs. Each has it's place but you will regret getting rid of the Anschutz. A .22LR with a good mod and shooting suitable ammunition, something like Eley or RWS sub-sonic HP is about as quite as you're going to get.
Shooting FAC air at about 40 ftlbs is about a 22 grain pellet doing around 900 ftps. If you were exactly zeroed at 63 yards you would be getting on for 2.5 inches low at 75 yards and nearly 2 inches high at 30 yards. It will be louder, loopier, air hungry and wind sensitive.
Get an FAC air as well and take it out on those warm, still summer evenings and enjoy it - Just don't get rid of the Annie to do it.
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Yes, Morris .295/230. These were originally introduced in 1882 as a training round. A barrel insert to take these cartridges (Morris tube) was used on something like a .45 Martini Henry service rifle so they could be used for short range target practice.
Eley subs .22lr
in Bullets, Cartridges and Reloading
Posted
We have heavy gravity in this neck of the woods too. With the variable velocity of the Eley subs over the last year or so, any where between 6-8 inches is about normal. Although the RWS only show around 1000 fps through the Chrony, I find them more consistent than the current Eley's.