1066
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Posts posted by 1066
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Really excellent work
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Thought you guys might be interested in this little pistol I made just using hand tools and a post drill.
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just though some of you might be interested in this little pistol I made around 35 years ago with just hand tools and a post drill.
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I have a good app on my android phone that shows all the satellites in real time: It's just called Satellite AR.
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+1 For the F1 from Merlin archery - also make yourself a remote button - very easy and gives you much more information.
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I have a cz452 in hmr with a light barrel, at 55 yards my zero drops 2" with a moderator although in terms of accuracy i cant tell any difference
I think it might be that your point of impact changes by 2" with mod - and in your case the change is downward but that not really the same as drop.
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50 for me 15-65ish point and shoot pretty much.
+1
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I'm sorry, I think you're right, it must be me, I just need more practice. I've got pretty limited experience with Remington CBees.
Can you tell us what equipment you're using, rifle, scope etc. also, is that from a solid bench, with a bi-pod or off the bonnet of the Land-Rover? Can you post some photos of your groups and a picture of the bullets you're using?
I have a sneaky feeling that, as Wymberley has said, the bullets aren't quite what it says on the box - according to your drop measurement, the damage to rabbits and the accuracy you are getting I would suggest that your rifle has a bit of a slack chamber and you are managing to load it with .22 WMR rounds as these are the only .22 rimfire rounds that I can find that fit the bill.
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Remington CBee 22 it's cheap but I love it.
Ahh! Great joke. I thought you were being serious until you said you were using Remington CBee's and hitting 1 inch targets out to 80 yds. This round has it's uses but it's not really designed for rabbit sized targets out to 100yds.
This is a "back yard" round - shooting a .33 gn bullet at around 740 fps at about 40ftlbs. Less than half the energy of a standard .22LR sub-sonic hollow point or about the same as a FAC air rifle.
If you have this round zeroed at 50 yards you will have a drop of nearly 8 inches at 80 yards and nearly 15 inches at 100 yards with only 36 ftlbs of energy left.
There's no such thing as a flat shooting .22LR. -
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It really depends what your priorities are - there's always a compromise with .22LR ammo, there's just so many to choose from.
Are you using them for pest control where minimum noise is really important. - Sub-sonic hollow point.
Maximum long range accuracy..........good quality sub-sonic solid
Short range gallery range comp/plinking........Reliability more important than accuracy.
Local availability, cost etc.
This is a short video I made this week comparing six different types of .22 ammunition - I know it was shot in a bolt rifle but it will give some idea of down range accuracy.
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If there is soft earth as a backstop, then I would use subsonic ammo with a moderator. Far more accurate.
That's the way to go
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I'm very new to CF rifles, having owned my 223 for a few weeks. I am cleaning it after every outing whether I've shot 1 or 100 rounds. When I say cleaning it, I'm simply running a bore snake through a couple of times and then giving it a proper clean every few months - or at least thats the plan!
My rimfires don't get cleaned at all.
I'm not really a lover of bore snakes - They do have their uses but my real concern is damage to the crown. At the range I see guys dragging the snake through with the cord running right over the lip of the crown -
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simply frenchie its the repeat ability that matters so if you work a load up on those scales and keep using them you won't have an issue. Once you get going if you aren't looking to be super anal about it you will find that you don't need to worry about half a grain and it makes ****** all difference at the ranges we shoot vermin at.
I must be supa-dupa anal about my powder weights then - If it's not within a 10th grain I would dump it back in the pot and start again. I agree consistency is the key, but you really need a known "benchmark" as a starting point.
By the time you have accepted a few thou difference in bullet seating depth, a few thou bullet run-out, slightly different length cases, variable neck tension, mixed batch of cases, half a grain either way with the powder weight etc. the chances of producing ammunition capable of good accuracy at longer ranges are pretty remote. True - probably good enough for short range vermin control or stalking where something like a 2" group at a hundred yards is considered good enough, but the longer the range and the smaller the target the more the attention to detail with the ammunition will take effect.
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Totally agree Kes - The trick with making accurate loads is to be consistent and control what we can as well as we can. We spend a lot of time and trouble prepping the case why just guess how much powder you're using when it's so easy to weigh each one. Sure, if you're shooting a lot of rounds and only interested in so-so accuracy or only shooting at the shorter ranges then a charge straight from a measure usually does the job. If you're trying to hit a grapefruit at 1000yds there's only one way to go.
If you are a committed beam scale user, here's a trick you might fine useful:-
http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2012/07/monitor-balance-beam-with-magnified-image-on-smartphone/
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You really need to know a bit more about your scales - Yours may well be right and the RCBS ones wrong. First you need a good "check weight" preferably a set of check weights. There must be something adrift with the Lee scales that needs fixing.
Although I'm not a lover of the Lee scales, they are usually very accurate, just fiddly to use. Adding a .5 grain weight to compensate for some error may lead to real trouble if you don't know what's causing the problem in the first place, say the problem is a little "fluff" stuck on the knife edge, three months down the line the fluff falls of, suddenly you are loading .5 grain overloads.
I don't think you can beat a good beam scale - There's very little to go wrong and, unless abused, last a lifetime - A good basic beam scale like an RCBS 502/505 or the Redding No2 should be accurate to within 10th grain and indicate a single kernel of a powder like Varget.
I have around 25 beam scales and two or three digital scales, I'm happy to weight bullets and cases with the digital scales but always use a beam scale for powder.
A set of my RCBS scales in action:
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The Greenhill formula was designed for just this problem, it's not exact, more of a rule of thumb but it has served it's purpose for well over a hundred years and still used today - There are several online calculators that are easy to use:-
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I've used the Lee Loaders and got fair results but have you thought about a Lee hand press? So much more versatile than the basic Loader. The Lee hand press accepts standard dies, not just Lee dies, It's easy to use, just the addition of another set of dies to load another calibre, quiet in use etc.
No matter how far you get into reloading (it becomes really addictive) the hand press will always have a place unlike the "loader" an the Lee scales, which you may soon outgrow.
The hand press is really handy to take to a zeroing session and tweak the seating depths as you go.
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Congratulations James - A well earned award and a personal thanks from me. If only all shooters would put a bit of effort in to protect our sport.
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Looks like you have an accurate and well zeroed rifle there Geordie. For any PW members who might be new to the game or not so experienced with scopes, this is a short video of how I zero my scopes. I know the quality's not great, I filmed it with my phone camera but it might save someone some ammunition.
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I have a Sightron SIII in 8-32x56 on my 6BR. I'm very pleased with it and think it was good value. It has good clear glass and positive clicks and tracks and returns to zero well. My scope has the fine plain cross hairs and 1/8th clicks so feels quite fine. Although I have a 20moa rail it has plenty of adjustment to go from 100 to 1000yds with the 6BR.
I bought my scope direct from the US and have had it for maybe two years now. Total cost was around £700 including Vat and duty.
It was very easy to deal with these guys and the parcel is tracked every inch of the way.
http://www.theriflescopestore.com/sisisisesc8m4.html
Here's a couple of snaps taken through the scope with my phone camera - not much of a test I know but might give you food for thought..
This is at about 10x, the target is 110yds
This is about 20x
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They look pretty fair - I agree it's the cannelure just showing. All seated about the same depth and all the bullets pointing the right way so you're off to a promising start.
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Yes, once you have loaded the 6 chambers with powder and lead ball and placed percussion caps on the nipples at the rear of the cylinder they are ready to shoot - Most of the revolvers are copies of the 1850-1870 originals, usually single action, meaning you need to pull the hammer back after the shot ready for the next shot. When loaded correctly hey are just as accurate as a modern revolver. - They are sec 1 firearms but no problem if you are a member of a club. I have a copy of a 1858 Remington .44 revolver and a .36 single shot duelling pistol.
Do the revolvers fire multiple shots like a regular revolver would? Are they allowed on a fac over here then? Sounds like fun.....
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The specter of compulsary shooting tests have been around since the 1970's that I can remember and must be resisted at all costs. That's not to say the OP doesn't have a valid point, I too am often stunned by some of the questions (and answers) on various shooting forums.
The point has been made that many of us started off with airguns in our youth, served our apprenticeship you might say, and steadily progressed from there - often joining the local smallbore club (every town had one) and really learning how to shoot in a disciplined way or possibly out beating at the weekend to earn a few shillings. The point is, shooting was a wholesome leasure activity with many thousands of regular participants, scouts, schools etc. etc. This is not the case today, shooting has been demonised, magazines kept under the counter and we constantly get a hammering in the press and other media.
Someone new coming into shooting now may well never even have held a rifle before, let alone shot one. They may well think that a .22 rf will kill a fox at a mile or that tiny little cartridge is ok for plinking in the garden - The only thing they know is that a .357 magnum will shoot through a car engine block and a bullet always sends out a shower of sparks when it hits something.
I really don't have any answers - but there is certainly a problem there to be addressed.
223 sticking cases
in Bullets, Cartridges and Reloading
Posted
+1 here - The last thing I would recommend is any sort of lube on a case because it's difficult to extract - Sounds over pressure to me, are you using a heavy crimp? Can you post a picture of the loaded rounds and fired primers?