matgriff

OK George will do, thanks for the heads up . I'll try and get it stripped out tonight and send some pictures. Actually I have had it all stripped down already, and I found the trigger mech pin was broken, so I replaced that (thought that was the problem initially) I didn't notice any other broken bits, but I'll take a good look later. I think the gun is generally "worn" it's in general good condition, but it's had plenty of use before I got it a couple of years ago, only paid £200 for it and it's been fine for general use. I just need to find out what part's worn causing this issue 🙂 Thanks Mat

No the pin looks fine. You can see in the extra pic I just added, the carrier plate doesn't look too bad when it's in the down position, but when you push it up to load the carts, it kind of moves over to the right & rubs on the side of the action, which causes it to stick in that position. If I lever it back with a small screwdriver it springs down again. Thanks

Some pictures as requested showing the problem.

Yes, thanks..... I was looking at this last night and thought that the bar doesn't seem to be retracting back into the frame of the action far enough (I maybe wrong) and I wondered if there's a build up of crud behind it somehow, but it could be that its started to fatigue and break at the fulcrum point ? Does the tiny pin on that just knock out with a small punch ? I guess it needs to be knocked out from on top somehow ? I'll post a few pics up later tonight, thanks Mat

Hi all, I have an ongoing problem with my 1980's Beretta A301 semi-auto. It's developed a problem cycling cartridges. The problem shows itself when manually loading and cocking the gun. Basically the loading plate (carrier plate) seems to stick in the upwards position when loading and cocking the gun, so instead of springing back down when cocking it raises and then sticks causing the cartridges to jam. Looking from underneath, it seems that the plate isn't exactly central in the gun, it's slightly over to one side and appears to be rubbing on the side of the action ? If I remove the trigger mech and carrier everything seems fine and free, it's just when it's fitted back into the action it seems to be a problem. As usual, any help is appreciated. Thanks

Hi, ok thanks for the feedback. So the land I want to shoot on is owned by me, so that should be straightforward enough. For the application itself, then should I just put 0.177 FAC air + 0.22 FAC air + 0.22LR + moderators and then see what comes back ? ie can the police say for example you're OK for FAC air but not 0.22 LR and then just issue a ticket for what's approved ? or for example they could just clear me for all three, and then even if I only have a 0.22 FAC air rifle I'm OK to get the others in future if I want to ? For the ammo for FAC air, is there any need to declare a maximum ? as it would be the same pellets as used in a sub 12ft/lbs rifle, of which I already have a stock ? Regarding the land being cleared by the police, do I need to do anything specific here, or just submit my application and then wait for them to come and check it out ? Thanks Mat

I did think about getting a .22 LR For the FAC do you have to apply individually for each type of gun ? So for example I apply for FAC air & .22 LR together or individually ? Thanks Mat

Hi all. I currently own a few shotguns, 12GA + .410 and also two air rifles, a TX200HC and an S400 pcp. I have quite a bit of land of my own, as part of our house, which was once a farm, and we are surrounded on all sides by fields, on which I have permission to shoot. I was thinking about getting a FAC for my air rifles, to allow me to shoot rabbits, squirrels and rats etc, at a bit longer distance with a bit more certainty, I have a rabbit problem on my vegetable plots, also I can shoot early morning or evenings without letting loose with the 12 bore. What's the actual process involved in applying for FAC air rifle use ? Thanks Mat

Sorted 🙂 Turns out it's a piece of the trigger plate holding pin, that secures the trigger block into the action. Only noticed when I started to re-assemble everything and found out the pin was about 10mm too short... oops New one ordered for the grand sum of £2.50

My trusty old Beretta A301 started to jam occasionally recently, so I stripped it down to take a look and give it a good clean. After I'd cleaned up all the parts, I noticed a small pin lying on my towel, I think it's fell out of the trigger mech block (can't be 100% sure though) but I can't see where it's come from ?? I've looked at the exploded parts diagram in the owners manual and can't see it there either..... any ideas anyone ? Mat

Exactly as Hector Vector has said. It's not used on the later TD5 (15P) engine. It should be blanked off, but over time the cap perishes and leaks. It's an easy fix. Either buy the genuine hose blanking piece, or just fit a bit of short hose with a home made plug in the end, that's what I did three years ago and it's not leaked since :-) Mat

I've been given an old 12g side by side, it's made by a French company called Nemrod. It's in need of a light refurb. I've noticed that it's missing the screw from the center of the top lever that open the barrels. The lever still works fine, but I'm guessing it'll come loose eventually if I use it. Does anyone know if the screw is a "standard" size across a lot of guns ? or is it something unique to every manufacturer ? I've googled Nemrod, but can't find too much info on the net. Thanks

OK thanks. I'll give it a good clean & polish. I've also bought some shorter 2" cartridges to try. Thx Mat

Hi. I've been given an old single barrel .410 which is in need of a bit of TLC. It's a Harrington & Richardson, with a manual cocking lever. It basically seems to shoot fine. I plan to restore the woodwork and re-blue the action & barrel. The only problem I've found is that the spent cartridges are very difficult to extract. New cartridges fit nice and smooth, but once fired the plastic body of the cartridges must expand and make it difficult to get out. I know it's the plastic body, because you can feel it if you try to re-fit the spent ones, they're tight to push into the chamber. I'm using Llayvale 2 1/2" (65mm) #5 cartridges. Any ideas why this is happening ? Thanks

I had the same problem(s) on my 2003 TD5 Discovery 2. I just removed the ACE completely. I bought a set of used anti roll bars from a non-ace Disco, fitted them with new bushes. I also removed the ACE pump and fitted a dummy pulley kit. TBH, the way I drive my Disco I can't tell any difference at all..... just my opinion. Mat

I have a Beretta A301 multi choke... dates from around early to mid 1980's I also have the factory supplied owners manual & full set of 4 chokes. The chokes are designated : 0 00 000 0000 With 0 showing the tightest pattern, and 0000 showing the widest pattern. It doesn't actually state full, 1/4 etc, just a small graphic image by each one showing the spread of shot. So I would agree with what dodeer & BB have written above ? Mat

Thanks for the info, I'll perhaps call my friendly FEO and ask his opinion... I regularly shoot pigeons/crows on my land and also in the fields next door and all around with my Beretta semi 12g , but at a reasonable hour, It's not that the 12g is too loud for me or our house, it's just that the noise carries so far across the open fields in these still summer evenings or early mornings & I don't want to upset anyone or give anyone cause for complaint, even though I'm perfectly legal doing it. What's a realistic range to kill rabbits with a 12g ? I'm guessing similar to pigeons... 35-40 yards with something like 32G #6 carts ? Thx Mat

OK, thanks for the info guys. I'll do a bit of research on the 22RF. Basically we are surrounded on all sides by fields (which I have permission to shoot on) apart from at the front of the house, which is the single track lane public road, but everything is well away from that. The surrounding fields stretch to around 200 Acres with the odd farm dotted at around 3/4 mile away at the closest point. Mat

Hi, I live on a farm (well ex-farm) with a couple of acres of land, chickens... getting some pigs, veg plots etc etc. I already have a shotgun certificate, two 12 G guns + two air arms air rifles. I've got a big rabbit problem going on at the mo, eating the veg and digging up the plots. They're a bit out of range for my air rifles, and I'm not too keen on firing off the 12g at 4am in the morning or 11pm at night. I was thinking of getting a .17HMR so that I can drop them from 50-60 yards or more. Would I have a problem getting the FAC ? Thanks Mat

You might want to find a good independent garage who know's a bit about Land Rovers..... they can be troublesome at times ? I've had my Disco 2 Td5 face-lift for ages now, and It's great for hauling stuff around and rough driving, but I've had to fix a load of problems over the years.. 99% of which I've done myself though. Good thing is that support is very good, and they all suffer the same "common" faults, so loads of advice on owners forums. Mat

Yes, you can change the centrifugal filter without draining the oil off. You have to remove a couple of bits of breather pipe and stuff to get access. The filter is under the domed cover, and the filter kit comes with the rubber O ring that seals the lid/cover. Takes about 15-20 mins and there shouldn't be any mess. Your earlier post seemed to suggest that they had changed the centrifugal filter ... ie the one with the domed cover If so, then the cartridge one on the side of the engine needs to be changed, and that means the oil needs to be drained down again.. Halfords should have changed that one at least, if they haven't take it back and demand a refund or the job done correctly. BTW the centrifugal filter kit and seal costs £5.50 inc shipping from Bearmach on ebay, and the cartridge filter is about £4 from Euro Car Parts Mat

I also have a Disco 2 Td5. The oil filter with the "dome" cover that sits on top by the manifold is the centrifugal filter, you can get away with changing this every couple of years, as it just spins at high rpm and catches any bits in the oil like a centrifuge. The other filter below the manifold on the side of the engine is a standard spin off disposable filter, and this must be replaced at every oil change as it's a full flow type. I would say, if they didn't explicitly state that they were going to change the centrifugal canister they could possibly get away with it, if they haven't changed the standard cartridge filter, no excuses... you should get a full refund because that's the filter that def needs changing at every oil change just like any other car.

I've done quite a lot of work with a very big company in the US called Lubrizol... they specialise in manufacture & supply of additives for (among others) the fuel industry, both petrol & diesel. They have vast test facilities & chemical development labs, literally rows of engine dyno's running all kinds of loading profiles 24/7... truck engines, car engines, motorbike engines .. you name it they have it. They then strip down & examine all this stuff to determine the wear etc at the end of the test cycles, which can run for 1000's of hours. Their chief engineer told me that all fuels & oils are refined equally as a "base stock", the big brands and others then buy "additive packages" from Lubrizol to add to their forecourt fuels & branded oils. His professional opinion..... the bigger brands buy the best additive packages for their product(s) Doesn't stop me filling up my Td5 discovery at the cheapest supermarket though, although I generally use "super" in my bike as the cost premium is negligible for the miles I do :-)

The trigger block is simple to remove, just tap the pin out with a small drift, press the loading latch button (the one you press to feed the cartridges in) and then the trigger mech just lifts out.

Yep, thanks done it... it just pulled out. Had about 10 years worth of crud inside the trigger and action... it's the first time I've stripped it right down to clean it, only had it about a year. Noticed yesterday that it jammed twice whist out claying, so thought I'd get it cleaned :-) Thanks Mat