Zeroing gun and lens

[G man]

Hi ALL,

Just recieved my gun (BSA Lightning XL .22) and i am not sure how to set up the scope and gun,I was thinking of doing it this way but not sure if this is the correct way.

 

I was thinking of clamping my rifle on my workmate bench using padding to protect gun etc,then setting a target as close to the centre of scope as possible around 25 yds away then firing around five rounds and getting the average centre of the hits on the target and then setting scope to this centre point.

 

Am i far out doing this?

 

G

Edited October 17, 2005 by G man

[Axe]

Hi G Man,

 

Run a search on here, this has been covered so many times and there are alot of threads on this burried deep.

 

Heres a link that might prove useful to you.

 

Useful Link.

 

Regards.

 

Axe.

[SNAKEBITE]

Am i far out doing this?

YYYYYYYEEEEEEESSSSSSS!!!

 

Springers don't like being clamped or held tightly.

 

I gues AXEs' link will tell you all you need to know as he is good on things like that, but remember consistency is the key when mounting the rifle. Try an do it correctly but what ever you do,do it the same way EVERY time. You will soon be knocking wings off flys at 50 yds!

 

Oh and if you will do most of you shooting standing, zero in standing. Changing position can jigger it all up.

 

GOOD LUCK!!

[G man]

Thanks for the info guys,it is well appreciated.

 

G

[roblade]

think i have said this before somewhere but easier to retype it for you LOL

 

what i do when i get a new rifle and scope:

 

1. mount scope loosly as far back as possibel without it falling off

 

2. shuolder the rifle and close your eyes, make sure its nice and comfy on your

shoulder and head against the stock.

 

3. open shooting eye and push scope forward slowly until you get a nice big clear picture without any mooning(?is that the right phrase?) around the view

 

4. tighten scope mounts up.

 

then onto the ranges

 

depending on how much shooting you have done before you mght want to skip the latter stages

 

5. set up targets at variouse ranges from 5 yards (or paces) out to 45 yards (or paces) with a minimum of 2 targets per stake and at least one plain white A4 sheet at 35 yards (or whatever distance you want to zero) with a basic cross on it (this is your zerioing distance)

 

6. choose which postion is most comfortable for you to use, might be best to use a cusion on the work mate and rest your hand on that and the rifle on your hand.

 

7. aim at the A4 seet of paper at your chosen distance, if you miss it totaly just walk it round the clock 3,6,9,12 one shot at each position until you can see where abouts the pellet is hitting (i.e. aim point would be edge of the paper high (12 o'clock) then round to left (3 o'clock) low (6 o'clock) and right (9 o'clock)) that gives you a r ought target board of 4 square feet one of the pellts should hit it some where.

 

8.once you have worked out where abouts the pellets are hitting (high, low, left or right or a combination of vertical and horizontal) dont worry about doing one or two clicks you wont ever notice this difference using a springer. just give it full turns (aiming off the paper to hit the paper would be at least two full turns i guess), half turns when your only a couple of inches away from aim point and quater turns when your about 1" off target 4 clicks at a time can be used for fine tuning. CONCENTRATE ON ONE PLANE AT A TIME eg if its shooting high and right, bring it left first then once you happy your on centre bring the vertical down as a seperate stage, do not change them both at the same time!

 

that should get you zeroed in pretty good then depending on how much experiance you have you mght want to do the following steps

 

9. using the targets you set out earlier, use these to work out the fall and rise of the pellet out to your maximum set range

 

DO NOT CHANGE MAGNIFICATION AFTER THIS STAGE!

 

10. aim at each target dead centre DO NOT USE HOLD OVER OR UNDER YET! 5 shots each target

 

11. have a good look through the scope at each target then starting at the close range one which would probably be hitting low as you look through the scope and look to see which mill dot is closest the pellet holes when you aimed dead centre i.e. pellets hitting just below first mil dot then lower your point of aim so as the x hair is about where the mil dot was (the x hair is used as a mildot as well dont forget) then when it loks similar distance fire off your next 5 shots and repeat the process for all targets going down the range.

 

12. you should notice that you have two targets were the aim is almost exactly the same (about 15 yards and 35 yards if i rember right) so these are you primary zero (35 yards) and your secondary zero (15 yards)

 

13 mark the distance of each target on the card its self and measure the drop of the pellets this will give you the amount of hold over in somehting you can read, always a good idea to put this on a little bit of card and carry it in your pocket when your shooting.

 

14. then on the second set of targets you put out see if you can rember what your aim pints were for each target and try and place 5 shots as close to the centre as possible.

 

15. if you want to have soem seriouse fun practise shooting the rifle in different positions and ranges i.e. standing shots for close range sitting shots for the long range (or whatever your happy doing LOL)

 

16 have a nice cig and a cuppa your all done

 

generaly speaking thats the process i go through when ever i get a new rifle and scope

 

but one important thig t rember when shooting a spring rifle, just let it rest in your hands DONT pull it into your shoulder, and DONT grip it tightly, just let the recoil do its thing and let the ifel rest there.

 

another pretty important thing when shooting a springer is "follow through" no this is not where you **** loudly LOL this is where when you take a shot, squeeze the trigger and once its fired keep the trigger pulled back and keep lookign through the scope until you have seen the pellet hit the target (or miss the target LOL)

 

ok dont think i missed anything out here, but if i have will add to it latter

 

all the best and enjoy your new rifle

 

ROB

[G man]

Well that sounds easy Rob ,Just going over to farm where i keep my caravan with a bottle of black label as a softener (not for me) then pop the question Please mr farmer can i come over and do some target shooting ,if this is ok,then wait a couple of months and then try the old begging routine of Do you have any pests you want shot,do you mind if i go and shoot a couple of tree rats etc,Well no harm in trying ,Thanks Rob,you have been a good help!!!

 

G

[roblade]

sounds like you go a nice little set up there and i dont mean the rifle

 

enjoy

 

ROB

[24joy]

Getting a bit nervous about going up to the club now, what's this mooning thing then

[roblade]

just think mark, ripley and new stock that should give you some idea PML

 

ROB

[Country_est]

Just another quick question on this,

 

I have mine set up almost Ok now but its shooting about 1/2" to the right at 20Yds.

 

As I tried to zero it in a bit more I was trying 1 click at a time, now I know I was wasting my time on that thanks guys, but as it shoots to the right I was turning the scope dial to the left as to move the shot left. Is this correct ?.

 

Cheers Trev.

[roblade]

most airgun scopes with the exception of ags, are normaly set for rim fire ranges (100yards) and the click adjustments refer to 1/4 MOA@100Yards (approx 0.25" @100 yards) this means that to move the POI 0.25" in any direction you will need approx 4 clicks.

 

hence the reason not to worry about one click at a time.

 

ROB

[Axe]

Hi Country Est, I have found it depends on the scope. On both my Walther and Nikko scopes the arrow points the direction to move the POI. Worse come to the worse, count your clicks while adjusting and you can always go back on yourself.

You will also need about 10 clicks to adjust 1/2 an inch at 20 yards.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Axe.

[P03]

Country Est,

The thing to remember is that you cannot change the point of impact (POI) (unless you are a gunsmith) you can only change the point of aim (POA). If you've got a good quality rifle it will be regulated to shoot fairly straight and consistant and you can adjust your POA to co-incide with your POI. If you buy a poor rifle it will shoot all over the place and no amount of adjusting will get you consistant accuracy. Once again I speak painfully from experience (and a lot of wasted time and sponduliks)

PO3

[P03]

On a similar subject anyone got any ideas on how to get a laser to stay zero'd???

I thought I'd try and use a crosman laser for rangefinding but the damned thing won't stay zero'd. I've got it mounted in my Logun S16S as the book says but its been nothing but trouble.

PO3

[Axe]

PO3,

 

I have a Laser on my S16 but I have never had any trouble with it. I would check that the screws are tight enough. Another thing you might want to bare in mind, if you have a zoom on your scope make sure you have it in the same position that you zeroed in with. Changing the zoom changes the apparent zero of the laser when range finding. The physical zero of the laser will never change, however.

 

This is something I learnt the hard way and will never make the same mistake with twice. :*)

 

Hope this helps

 

Axe.

[P03]

WE appear to be chasing each other around the forum. Thanks for the advice.

PO3