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new permission advice needed


artschool
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hi everyone,

 

just had a phone call from the manager of a business park asking if i could remove the pigeons from a few of their warehouses. i am just waiting to get the signed permission back.

 

so i have 2 airrifles that i could use. a .177hw100 or a .22 tdr.

 

which would be better? (was thinking the .177 might overpenetrate?)

 

also any other tips would be handy! i have shot plenty of rabbit, squirrel and pigeons outsdoors but not inside a building.

 

i also have basc membership for insurance.

 

thanks.

Edited by artschool
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for close up shooting < 25 yards i'd probably go with a .22 wad cutter or hollowpoint pellet providing it groups well in your rifle - maximum energy transfer without penetration.

good job on the insurance - it's essential.

be careful of what's behind the pigeons.

make sure whoever is going to be around the warehouses knows you are there and what you're doing - preferably you want them empty whilst working.

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oh and practise shooting upwards - there's less gravity to affect the pellet so it's flatter flying than shooting at right angles to the ground.

 

never thought of that. <_<

 

what about a lamp if its dark. will they fly off? are there rules if the birds are roosting?

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i'f i may, i would suggest pointed pellets as the hollow point does not penetrate feathers or at least only just! i had this problem when i first got an air rifle a few years ago. took me ages to realise the problem! if u use pointed - your .22 should kill up to 45 yards. mine does but it is only a couple of years old. and like nickbeardo said. u need to re-zero your sights to aiming at a 45 digree angle! different flight for the pellet.

 

what scope u got? have u got distance dots on the cross hair?

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i'f i may, i would suggest pointed pellets as the hollow point does not penetrate feathers or at least only just! i had this problem when i first got an air rifle a few years ago. took me ages to realise the problem! if u use pointed - your .22 should kill up to 45 yards. mine does but it is only a couple of years old. and like nickbeardo said. u need to re-zero your sights to aiming at a 45 digree angle! different flight for the pellet.

 

what scope u got? have u got distance dots on the cross hair?

 

You won't need to re-zero, just find a good safe place to practice to use a bit of holdunder. I'd also steer well clear of pointed pellets, unless by some miracle chance your rifle can fire them straight!

 

What is the warehouse roof made of?

Edited by kyska
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You won't need to re-zero, just find a good safe place to practice to use a bit of holdunder. I'd also steer well clear of pointed pellets, unless by some miracle chance your rifle can fire them straight!

 

What is the warehouse roof made of?

 

kingspan type metal standing seam.

 

i received a pack of logun penetrators today. but i think i will use jsb exacts.

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i'f i may, i would suggest pointed pellets as the hollow point does not penetrate feathers or at least only just! i had this problem when i first got an air rifle a few years ago. took me ages to realise the problem! if u use pointed - your .22 should kill up to 45 yards. mine does but it is only a couple of years old. and like nickbeardo said. u need to re-zero your sights to aiming at a 45 digree angle! different flight for the pellet.

 

what scope u got? have u got distance dots on the cross hair?

 

i stopped using pointy pellets for accuracy reasons.

 

scope is a hawke IR 3-9x50. with mildots.

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i thought u had to re-zero everytime u use your rifle. let alone if u change angle or pellet? u know- incase u have knocked the scope or summit. and all pellets fly differently. pointed fly the same as h point. there is hardly and difference on a piece of paper. i changed between the two last year andi hardly had to move my sights. in fact i have just shot a pigeon out the garden with pointed! crackin pellet if u ask me. have a look.

 

http://i41.tinypic.com/676ote.jpg

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i stopped using pointy pellets for accuracy reasons.

 

scope is a hawke IR 3-9x50. with mildots.

 

Well thats perfect, go out and see what happens with the midots, remember to compensate for the height of the shot aswell as how far away you are from the target. IE if you were shooting 15 yards of elevation the POI will change if you are 10 yards compared to 30 yards from the target if that makes sense?

 

I read somewhere if you half the elevation and subtract that from the distance from target, with around 12ft/lb .22 it'll give you some idea of where to aim and refine the technique.

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i thought u had to re-zero everytime u use your rifle. let alone if u change angle or pellet? u know- incase u have knocked the scope or summit. and all pellets fly differently. pointed fly the same as h point. there is hardly and difference on a piece of paper. i changed between the two last year andi hardly had to move my sights. in fact i have just shot a pigeon out the garden with pointed! crackin pellet if u ask me. have a look.

 

http://i41.tinypic.com/676ote.jpg

 

yes i usually recheck the zero if i change pellets. i tested aa hunter against aa field pellets and found the fields to be better, personally.

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i haven't rezero'ed my air rifle in 3 years - still shoots exactly where it should (using the same pellets - Accupells).

worth checking if you knock it though, or if changing pellet.

you can use a lamp inside a building for pest control purposes.

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i thought u had to re-zero everytime u use your rifle. let alone if u change angle or pellet? u know- incase u have knocked the scope or summit. and all pellets fly differently. pointed fly the same as h point. there is hardly and difference on a piece of paper. i changed between the two last year andi hardly had to move my sights. in fact i have just shot a pigeon out the garden with pointed! crackin pellet if u ask me. have a look.

 

http://i41.tinypic.com/676ote.jpg

 

I see your point, but checking your zero before shooting always a good idea, but when out and about shooting you can't re-adjust for everyshot, thats why we practice for holdover and holdunder.

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never thought of that. <_<

 

what about a lamp if its dark. will they fly off? are there rules if the birds are roosting?

 

 

lamp is fine for feral pigoens and just make sure your zero is spot on.

as they may have never been lamped(by the sound of things)any lamp would be good but,if you have the dimmer on your lamp it will help,if they have been lamped before.

they usaually fly from rafter to rafter,so just make sure they fall first shot.

 

al

Edited by albob
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lamp is fine for feral pigoens and just make sure your zero is spot on.

as they may have never been lamped(by the sound of things)any lamp would be good but,if you have the dimmer on your lamp it will help,if they have been lamped before.

they usaually fly from rafter to rafter,so just make sure they fall first shot.

 

al

 

my lamp has a dimmer as i find i cant get near any rabbits without it <_<

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my lamp has a dimmer as i find i cant get near any rabbits without it <_<

 

 

you may find the same with feral pigeons then,so you have the advantage if it goes that way.

keep it low but,enough to id and shoot them. :oops:

good luck.

al

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  • 1 month later...
Give me a pm if you want a hand basc + dedal NV sight

 

finally got some shooting at this permission. they dont want me going in the old warehouses yet but one of the unit occupiers gave me a call because there were some pigeons ruining his stock.

 

got one of the blighters off a rafter and the other one wouldnt show its face.

 

so i will go back and get him another time. :rolleyes:

 

2elqakg.jpg

4t63iq.jpg

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IMO best done at night when staff have all knocked off.

 

Lamping is best.

 

Beware that your pellets might damage the roof. Not good PR. Also ricochets of beams.

 

Mostly, especially at first, the birds will just sit but some older/wiser ones tend to step behind their mates. Crafty boogers, pigeons.

 

Make sure you collect all the fallen and dispose of them. 1) don’t want staff finding wounded birds around in the morning. 2) health & hygiene.

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IMO best done at night when staff have all knocked off.

 

Lamping is best.

 

Beware that your pellets might damage the roof. Not good PR. Also ricochets of beams.

 

Mostly, especially at first, the birds will just sit but some older/wiser ones tend to step behind their mates. Crafty boogers, pigeons.

 

Make sure you collect all the fallen and dispose of them. 1) don’t want staff finding wounded birds around in the morning. 2) health & hygiene.

 

they actually closed the shop and warehouse for me! the manager was ever so pleased. i took the shot at about 20 yards with my .22 and the pellet remained in the bird.

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IMO best done at night when staff have all knocked off.

 

Lamping is best.

 

Beware that your pellets might damage the roof. Not good PR. Also ricochets of beams.

 

Mostly, especially at first, the birds will just sit but some older/wiser ones tend to step behind their mates. Crafty boogers, pigeons.

 

Make sure you collect all the fallen and dispose of them. 1) don’t want staff finding wounded birds around in the morning. 2) health & hygiene.

I have shot birds in food storage warehouse's for many years and found that any air rifle used has penetrated the packaging,( But I will take advise on the more modern guns available)

I have always used my 9mil garden gun the shot richochets off the roofingand walls without causing damage and does damage the packaging at the height of most warehouse's (4 pallets, 1 floor and 3 in the air)and the angle that you shoot, most birds sit high in the beams. You have to ensure you are the only person in the warehouse and wear ear defenders as shooting indoors is VERY NOISY.

Terry bakeryboy

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