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C/H kaputt.......


ziplex
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I've relented, the girls are moaning about it being cold enough in the mornings to have the heating on so I duly obliged...after a fight, problem is it's decided not to work. If I push the button on the timer for hot water the timer clicks and the boiler fires up, if I do the same for the C/H it does SFA! the timer 'clicks' but the boiler doesn't fire.

It all worked as should the last time it was used.

 

Any ideas please guys or is it engineer call out time?

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I've relented, the girls are moaning about it being cold enough in the mornings to have the heating on so I duly obliged...after a fight, problem is it's decided not to work. If I push the button on the timer for hot water the timer clicks and the boiler fires up, if I do the same for the C/H it does SFA! the timer 'clicks' but the boiler doesn't fire.

It all worked as should the last time it was used.

 

Any ideas please guys or is it engineer call out time?

 

Thermostat turned down ?

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I've relented, the girls are moaning about it being cold enough in the mornings to have the heating on so I duly obliged...after a fight, problem is it's decided not to work. If I push the button on the timer for hot water the timer clicks and the boiler fires up, if I do the same for the C/H it does SFA! the timer 'clicks' but the boiler doesn't fire.

It all worked as should the last time it was used.

 

Any ideas please guys or is it engineer call out time?

 

Is the pump turning

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I've relented, the girls are moaning about it being cold enough in the mornings to have the heating on so I duly obliged...after a fight, problem is it's decided not to work. If I push the button on the timer for hot water the timer clicks and the boiler fires up, if I do the same for the C/H it does SFA! the timer 'clicks' but the boiler doesn't fire.

It all worked as should the last time it was used.

 

Any ideas please guys or is it engineer call out time?

 

 

Was the last time some years ago?

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If it's a sealed system combi boiler you may have lost some pressure in the system. If it is a combi (no hot water tank) there will be a filling loop which will probably be a flexible hose with a blue tap. Your boiler will have a small pressure gauge on the front with either a red line or a green segment. Open the tap and let the system pressurise up to the line or into the green segment. If it's not that or it isn't a combi boiler then we have now exceeded my pitiful knowledge of heating systems :good:

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Combis should be filled to 2 bar, hopefully it IS a combi and just needs a refill as above.

A gravity fed system ie you need to heat the water up in a storage tank before it gets hot, is usually the motorised valve that will be hidden under the floor somewhere, usually upstairs, has failed, or it could be airlocked....thats about it from me as well :good:

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Thanks for the input, no thermostat as all radiators have thier own, and we have plenty of hot water. The boiler is a floor standing job if that helps, so I assume that's not a combi?....sorry to sound thick but I just thought there may be the option to hit it with a hammer at some strategic place? :good:

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hi mate...its your 3 port valve.(presuming your piped/wired up for a y plan system,which is most likely) find it, on one end therel be a manual over ride lever, slide it over and hook it in its latch...turn on the heating and it'll fire up...that should keep the women folk happy

then either replace the valve or live with it like that (water and heating on demand) till the spring when you want water only again...then youl have to replace the valve...

Edited by myzeneye
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Found 'Y plan 3 position' thingy valve upstairs by pump and tank in airing cupboard.......I assume this is right? Slid the lever from 'auto' to 'manual' and hooked it into place, came back downstairs pressed the 'C/H' button but still no firing up of boiler?! The 'hot water' overide button fires it up immediately.

 

:good:

 

 

Right, just tried again and the boiler does indeed fire up in 'manual' mode for the C/H, so I guess we need a new y plan valve? Any idea on costs before I start ringing around for prices?

 

Oh, many thanks by the way for the advice....the problem is getting sorted and i've just realised how unfit I am running up and down those bloody stairs!

Edited by ziplex
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Any idea where your pump, motorised valves are? Perhaps beside the hot water cylinder, in a cupboard, under the floor?

If you weren't 400 odd miles away I could nip round and fix it in the time it takes me to type out these posts!!

 

 

It'd be a nice drive, nice day and all......i'll put the kettle on and see you at 4 ish? :good:

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Right, just tried again and the boiler does indeed fire up in 'manual' mode for the C/H, so I guess we need a new y plan valve? Any idea on costs before I start ringing around for prices?

My old system used to do this every autumn when it was first required to heat the house. Try "flicking" the manual lever several times and see if it then works in auto mode, mine used to stick after several months in one (water only) position.

 

May save you a few quid, here's hoping.

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My old system used to do this every autumn when it was first required to heat the house. Try "flicking" the manual lever several times and see if it then works in auto mode, mine used to stick after several months in one (water only) position.

 

May save you a few quid, here's hoping.

 

 

Will do, got to be worth a shot :good:

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cost of a new 3 port valve....... well, that depends on a few things bud...

i fit honeywell ones because theyre rather good quality but you can get cheaper ones which will do the same job...

 

if your gonna have a go at swapping it yourself, the best idea is to try and get one the same as what you alraedy have, this means the wiring inside will be a straight swap... if you change the manufacturer you usually have to consult a wiring diagram and suss a few things out... easy when you know how, not so easy if you dont...

 

ebay -22mm 3 port valve

 

you can usually buy honeyweel ones cheap on ebay...

 

labour wise...its half an hours work..to isolate/drain swap valve and rewire etc... :yes:

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cost of a new 3 port valve....... well, that depends on a few things bud...

i fit honeywell ones because theyre rather good quality but you can get cheaper ones which will do the same job...

 

if your gonna have a go at swapping it yourself, the best idea is to try and get one the same as what you alraedy have, this means the wiring inside will be a straight swap... if you change the manufacturer you usually have to consult a wiring diagram and suss a few things out... easy when you know how, not so easy if you dont...

 

ebay -22mm 3 port valve

 

you can usually buy honeyweel ones cheap on ebay...

 

labour wise...its half an hours work..to isolate/drain swap valve and rewire etc... :yes:

 

 

Wouldn't attempt myself, it would go horribly wrong, I just know it! However since I first posted the heating seems to be working ok so perhaps turning the switch over and back again has rectified it? or am I being over optomistic? when I first switched it from auto to manual there was a resistance on the lever if that makes sense. I'll know in good time if/when it fails to come on as there's 3 wimpy females in the house.....4 if you include to ever shivering GSP :yes:

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yep, 3 ports can seize up... might have just needed manually freeing up...i take it with you saying its working now, what you mean is youve returned the lever on the valve to auto and its now operating ok ? if this aint the case and youve still got it latched over, well, it will work, untill you decide you want hot water only....

butif you have returned the lever to auto and it seems to be working thats great, however i would suggest firing the heating up a few times during the summer months just to keep it freed up...

its usually this prelonged spell over the summer when valves,pumps and trv's etc start to seize up...

 

anyhoo...glad your all warm now, its been a bit nippy the last week...and its only october !!! god help us when the winter comes !!hahahah

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yep, 3 ports can seize up... might have just needed manually freeing up...i take it with you saying its working now, what you mean is youve returned the lever on the valve to auto and its now operating ok ? if this aint the case and youve still got it latched over, well, it will work, untill you decide you want hot water only....

butif you have returned the lever to auto and it seems to be working thats great, however i would suggest firing the heating up a few times during the summer months just to keep it freed up...

its usually this prelonged spell over the summer when valves,pumps and trv's etc start to seize up...

 

anyhoo...glad your all warm now, its been a bit nippy the last week...and its only october !!! god help us when the winter comes !!hahahah

 

It didn't work earlier when the timer clicked in but the lever had come off the latch on the valve.....working again now it's latched back over so all ok until summer time then it seems. Thanks for your time :yes:

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