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Steyr Pro-hunter 'V' T3 Lite??


Big Dog
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Ok I had my mine set on a T3 Lite but on Monday I went to the dealer I bought my Ruger off and looked at a Steyr Pro-hunter .222. WOW! I was impressed.

 

What I liked:

- Synthetic stock - solid at the recoil end were as the T3 looks a bit stuck on

- Action very soild and smooooooooooooth

- Safety really nice

- Barrel nice matt black, can't remember proper term. Has a nice spiral effect on it

- Trigger really nice and set - WOW! I have never used a set trigger, I liked it although would need some getting used to for safety reasons. A range day would sort that out however.

- Weight was nice too

- Fitted the shoulder suprisingly well = to T3 (I try a Steyr b4 and didn't like it at all, must have been some other model).

- A bit cheaper than the T3. £675 unscrewed and £70 more factor cut. The T3 will be at least £710 plus about £100+ to get it cut and proofed.

 

What I didn't like:

- The forend seemed a little light and could be moved?? Concern that this may effect the free flooting barrel??? Any thought??

- The barrel at the mussel seems lighter than the T3. My concern is how many shot b4 it gets very hot and moves off zero?:)

 

 

Other Important information I need:

The dealer isn't moderator happy, he feels it will make her heavy and may impact accuracy; although I will get a cut one anyway. So Two things:

 

- What do you think?? As the mussel end seems thin, is that a factor??

- What about a T4 instead of a T8 (Remember this is for a .222 as I understand it the T4 was designed for .222 & .223, it is lighter and shorter

 

Your thoughts are welcome especially from those who have used both the T3 and the Steyr Pro-hunter.

 

Thanks guys

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having handled and shot a steyr manlicher synthetic i would not touch them with a barge pole, plastic and nasty are how i would summarise it. The one i used was touching down one side of the stock, which could be easily solved by bending the stock the other way :) . The stock could not support its own weight, and the barrel touched when i bipod was mounted, a moderator would only make this worse.

 

the T3 lite i have not handled yet, however it would be difficult to make it as bad as the steyr.

 

Dont worry about the heat in the barrel. with a .222 is takes 7 or 8 shots to start a light barrel to wander. if your taking 8 shots in this close succesion you need a machine gun not a rifle.

 

I would not bother with the t8 on the .222 unless you are happy to have the gun as a supported gun only (sticks and bipod). The T8 is a heavy thing, and its made my dads sako 75 very muzzle heavy. However teh T4 balances quite nicely with the sako's (my old mans other sako 75 has a T4) this is still slightly muzzle heavy, but is still very much useable.

 

my advice...... T3 with a T4

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moved?? Concern that this may effect the free flooting barrel??? Any thought??

- The barrel at the mussel seems lighter than the T3. My concern is how many shot b4 it gets very hot and moves off zero?:lol:[/color]

 

The dealer isn't moderator happy, he feels it will make her heavy and may impact accuracy; although I will get a cut one anyway. So Two things:

 

- What do you think?? As the mussel end seems thin, is that a factor??

- What about a T4 instead of a T8 (Remember this is for a .222 as I understand it the T4 was designed for .222 & .223, it is lighter and shorter [/color]

 

Your thoughts are welcome especially from those who have used both the T3 and the Steyr Pro-hunter.

 

Thanks guys

I have the predecessor to the T3 ,The M595 .223 Wood & Blue with T8 Fitted .

 

As for the muzzle being to thin .............the inner bore is set for .224 so so long as there is enough material left for a 1/2" UNF thread :) and I'm sure there is so no problem there :lol:

 

Once the mod is fitted you'll be looking for a business card thickness of clearence because you'll either be resting on the pods ,sticks or a fence post and the factory set clearence will no longer be enough so be prepared to remove some material from this stock .

 

Remember these are hunting rifles and are designed with the hunter in mind and not the target shooter .Excessive heat is detrimental to the barrel life :oops::lol:

 

Shame you are,nt in England BD as there are two M595s in .222 for sale in the Gunmart at the mo :lol:

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BD,

 

I've just gone through a similar process to you, and directly compared the T3 with the Steyr Pro Hunter.

 

I already have a T3 in .243 calibre, so I may be slightly biased, but after looking at both rifles side by side, and speaking to lots of people......I bought another T3.

 

I don't think you can beat the 'out of box' quality and accuracy for the price.

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The T3 will be at least £710

And another thing. . .

 

The T3 shouldn't cost any more than about £500, that is whole idea, to make Tikka's cheaper so they so are not fighting for the same market as Sako's :)

should have bought a few years back. a sako 75 could be picked up for £750 - £800. Now you are lucky to get one under £1k and i cant believe that stupid key system in the bolt is worth £200

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Big Dog

Thought you might apprecite some feedback on the Steyr Prohunter from someone that owns one - two actualy .243 and .308 heavy barrel.

 

I have heard many people critisise these for their flexible stocks but the truth is most have never shot one. What I can tell you is I use bipods on both of mine and when I go to the range my groups are smaller than most peoples. Both of mine shot consittant 0.5" groups with quality factory ammo and better with reloads and hold this level of accuracy out to and beyond 500 yards.

 

Steyer Manlicher have an excellent reputation for accuracy and you will not find this lacking in the Prohunter. I value accuracy above all else and I compete favourably against the die hard Sako/Tika/Remmingtons owners. I also own a Sako, its accuracy is no better than the Steyrs.

 

Tika/Steyr neither will disappoint so go with what makes you feel good.

Good luck,

 

SF

Edited by Subsonic Flyer
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Thanks guys. What if you have a stock problem?:P??

 

Can you do anything yourself or do you require a expert???

 

On the price stuff. Yesterday I went to a local dealter (15mins away) his prices were Tikka T3

 

- Hunter £710

- Lite blue £610

- Lite stainless £735

- Pro-hunter £695 unscrewed

 

The other dealer I was with Pro-hunter £675 unscrewed, still need to find out what he can get me a T3 for.

 

It just seem to be more expensive over here :ernyha: . But if you guys can get them for £500 I can't see £200+ for P&P :lol:

 

I will keep trying.

 

 

Anymore comments on the guns welcome.

 

Ps. Do Tikkas have a set trigger???

 

How do you rate these for hunting??

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no tikkas dont have a single set trigger as standard

 

i like set triggers, esspecially for stalking (albeit rabbits), however i would never buy a single set trigger, in my opinon messing around with the trigger which fires the gun is asking for trouble. A good double set trigger with different texture blades is fine though.

 

However i would still rather have a decent normal trigger (sako 75 is about the bench mark for a out of the box gun in my opinion)

 

basically.... it makes little practical difference, you can shoot just as accuratly with both with practice. I use both regually, and swap between them without problem.

 

its not an advantage or disadvantage in my opinion.

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single set trigger is a single trigger which to set the 'set' trigger you push it forward then just use as normal to fire.

 

a double set trigger is one which has 2 triggers, the rear most trigger generally sets the 'set' trigger, and the front one then fires the gun.

 

i believe single set is a bad idea as it means you are messing around with a trigger which can set off the rifle. Granted i can also see the same argument being applied to a double set trigger in winter, as you wont be able to feel the difference so well. But its still a better design of set trigger in my opinion.

Edited by dunganick
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