Stainless fasteners for a Defender

[Gimlet]

Advice please.

I've just bought a 1983 110 V8 very cheap as a shoot vehicle and local workhorse. It needs some welding and general fettling for mot. The engine seems to be an absolute peach but I think the previous owner was the sort of person who wears cammo trousers lives with his mum and hasn't got a girlfriend, and he bought his tools at Happy Shopper.

There is scarsely a single nut bolt or screw that is the right one or has been fastened with the correct spanner or screw driver.

I want to replace any fasteners I need to remove with stainless. Can anyone tell me the best place to get a tub of assorted stainless fasteners relevent to an old 110. And will everything on it be standard metric?

All input appreciated. I haven't ownwed a Landrover since a series III 25 years ago and I've forgotten everything.

[HW682]

Never used them, so can't comment on service etc, but this website does stainless kits for defenders... http://www.a2stainless.co.uk/

[bigstevouk]

Screwfix do a good selection of stainless nuts and bolts etc

[ack-ack]

I think the previous owner was the sort of person who wears cammo trousers lives with his mum and hasn't got a girlfriend, and he bought his tools at Happy Shopper.

 

:lol: :lol:

[webber]

You can buy kits of stainless bolts etc specifically for Land Rovers.

Do a search on ebygumbay, you'll see what I mean.

 

webber

[tinytim38]

dont use s/s fasteners, they look great for a while, then you get rust all around them where they are fixed to the carbon steel, its down to disimilar metals (galvanic corrosion), better to use carbon steel fasteners and paint them, trust me I have done it and had the aformentioned results...see below :o

 

 

 

Dissimilar metals and alloys have different electrode potentials and when two or more come into contact in an electrolyte a galvanic couple is set up. A galvanic couple can also be set up on a single metal or alloy due to the metal surface not being homogeneous or if the electrolyte varies in composition, forming a concentration cell.

 

The electrolyte provides a means for ion migration whereby metallic ions can move from the anode to the cathode. This leads to the anodic metal corroding more quickly than it otherwise would; the corrosion of the cathodic metal is retarded even to the point of stopping. The presence of electrolyte and a conducting path between the metals may cause corrosion where otherwise neither metal alone would have corroded.

 

In some cases, this reaction is intentionally encouraged. For example, low-cost household batteries typically contain carbon-zinc cells. As part of a closed circuit (the electron pathway), the zinc within the cell will corrode preferentially (the ion pathway). Another example is the cathodic protection of buried or submerged structures. In this example, sacrificial anodes work as part of a galvanic couple, promoting corrosion of the anode, rather than the protected subject metal

Edited June 30, 2011 by tinytim38

[mick miller]

Put a squirt of tef-gel on the screws and you don't need to worry about galvanic corrosion anymore.

[the_commoner]

i thought the whole point of stainless steel fastners was to prevent issues with disimilar metals ?

[mick miller]

I use them to prevent all the rust stains on the bodywork. They do create galvanic corrosion issues though, like I said a squirt of tef-gel applied with an old toothbrush puts those problems to bed but allows for easy disassembly if needed in future.

[jacksdad]

Stainless fasteners look good but if you drop one down into an inaccessable hole you can't get them out with a magnet :blink: :blink:

I use my local trade supplier (Chadderton Fixings) , always glad to sell me a few assorted bits for a couple of quid in the tea money tin

Off the shelf kits are good but cost a fortune by comparison.