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Longnets


tiercel
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You're bang on there fert, it is one of the downsides of nylon nets and I find that both purse and longnets made of nylon tangle much easier than hemp. In honesty most of my long netting is with ferrets rather than at night so at least I can see what's going on. Make my own hemp purse nets and have done a few nylon gate nets but I hate even working with the nylon as it's a b*gger to knot IMHO.

 

Had one strange experience a couple of years back; had set a long net on the far side of a hedge that was quite thick. I was ferreting alone and it was there to catch any bunnies that escaped the purse nets. I sometimes tie a can on the top line with a stone in it so you can hear when a bunny hits the net, no good if it's very windy though. There's a gate through the hedge but the hedge is so thick you can't see through it. Anyway, I'd had a few from my side with nothing apparently gone out from the far side. Picked up the ferrets and all the purse nets and went round the other side to find a bunny lightly tangled in the longnet but stone dead. Never had it happen since and there were no marks on it to suggest hawk, fox or cat had been at it.

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roost you whant to try it at night most you gotta put your homework in. but it can be very rewarding at the end of it. ive got some photos on my digicam after a couple of hours netting.can anybody tell me how to forward them on to this site.im afraid when i was supposed to be at school in IT classes i was out catching dirty vermin. :oops::lol:

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Look at the box below the text box when you are posting a reply, it says "Browse" to the right. Click on the browse button and it will let you search through your PC files for the picture files you want to post. Max 200k so if you've taken them high res. you may need to reduce them a bit. I use a software program called Paintshop Pro, you've probably got one with your camera software anyway. Mind you don't accidentally post your porn pictures here though :oops::/:lol:

 

Hope this helps, assume you've got to the bit where you can download the pics to your PC already, if not you will need a cable to connect camera to PC usually via one of the USB ports, should have come with the camera.

 

DOH, just looked at the forum list and theres a forum for info on uploading pics, try this:

 

http://forums.pigeonwatch.co.uk/forums/ind...?showtopic=1638

Edited by old rooster
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Old Rooster i noted that in your post you said.

"Interested to see you putting the pegs in as you lay out the net, I've found that to be a bit of a palaver and usually run the net right out pegging both ends then go back to put in the pegs. Matter of preference I suppose."

 

If you are working dirty ground which can mean almost anyplace near trees after a good blow. The ground is littered with twigs. Hemp or nylon you lay your net down on those and you will get the net dirty.

 

There are places that allow me to set the net the same way as you do, and you are right it is easier :oops: .

 

I suppose if you dont mind cleaning your net after a drop then thats the way to do it. The way i do it allows me to drop and pick up a net on dirty sets with the minimum of litter in the net. There is another disadvantage to the lay down then peg meathod in that you are walking back and fo along the net there by creating more disdubance than is really necessery. With the peg with net in hand meathod you walk accross the set once.

 

As with most things there is no right way or wrong way of doing things, its just as you say a matter of prefrance

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Old Rooster. What you said about tying in the slack where you place the pegs. There are two schools of thought on that. I am with the for tied in slack. I know vimm is against it.

 

But when i tie in the slack i tie it on the head line only, i tie at the rate of 36 meshes to 6 ft of net that gives you a net that is rigged by halfs. That is every mesh is 4" 4"x 36=144 divided 2=6 ft. So what you get then on an end set is not so many big bunches of net with smaller portions of taught net.

 

If you are trying to set on a quartering wind it can play hell with the slack in the net. One way i have found of combatting that is to set the net upside down. That is the top line becomes the bottom and vick verca. Then what happens is that because your foot rope then is laying on the grass and it has been tied in, that the meshes on the head rope are controled by ties on the foot rope and you dont get them running all to one end.

 

I have just read all this back and it seems as clear as mud to me :/ hope you can make out what im trying to say. :oops::lol:

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Old Rooster. What you said about tying in the slack where you place the pegs. There are two schools of thought on that. I am with the for tied in slack. I know vimm is against it.

 

But when i tie in the slack i tie it on the head line only, i tie at the rate of 36 meshes to 6 ft of net that gives you a net that is rigged by halfs. That is every mesh is 4" 4"x 36=144 divided 2=6 ft. So what you get then on an end set is not so many big bunches of net with smaller portions of taught net.

My thoughts, for what they are worth, is that you only really need to tie at peg points as the free mesh slides easilly along between the pegs on the lines once a rabbit hits at any point. I rarely get more than one or at most two rabbits in any one section, if the nets are tied this way it gives plenty of "bag" to catch the struggling rabbit rather than letting it bounce off and escape.

 

I do stress that this is just a personal preference based on experimentation, if you think about it by tying just at the pegs you are not restricting the net any more than if it wasn't tied at all. You are just equalling out the amount of bag available between pegs, which is all I'm trying to achieve as we all seem to agree that nylon in particular runs along the lines and gets into all kinds of a mess with the slightest bit of wind.

Edited by old rooster
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Old Rooster. If i thought that it would not be to any advantage i can assure you that i would not go to the bother of rigging the nets every 6 ft.

 

I worked as a professional fisherman for many years i quickly learned how to rigg nets to the best advantage. I then took the princilpes involved in rigging nets for bottom living fish (sole ,place etc) and applied them to catching rabbits.

 

The meathod i use for my longnets is an adapted version of a danish rigg where the headline is tied in and the leadline just runs through the bottom selvage. If you are in any doubt about the catching powers of that type of rigging i suggest you look at this.

 

http://forums.pigeonwatch.co.uk/forums/ind...showtopic=3118#

 

I made him 200yds of net in various lengths. He later told me that he had used the nets alongside his late fathers and had not lost a rabbit out of them. Where as his fathers traditional running nets had lost quite a few rabbits.

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i think tide in bag is pretty esential when out at night.it isnt so bad setting a running kill net in the day cause you can see where the bag needs to be.but at night when taking op your sets you gotta becarefull that the bag dont run to one end. once all your bag is tied in its better to pick up you dont have to worry about the bag going anywhere.tiersal i know a few folk who tie there bag at 36 meshes t 6ft.i have 2 fifty yarders with the bag tied in at this calculation seems to work for me.i see you make your own nets tiercal.would you be interested in making me a couple of 50 yard hemp nets?

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