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New shape navara d40


AdamHall
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Right then wanted one of these for ages and have now got me wedding out the way im so going to treat my self so what should i be looking for when i go see one , do they suffer from the same engine issues as the d22 it seizeing up and throwing rods through the block , whos got one and what problems have you had if any im aware they suffer from clutch failure most seem to be abot 60000-80000 miles and mainly with towbars fitted so no suprise there , ive seen a company on ebay that do a timing chain upgrade so guessing they give problems snapping anyone had this problem basicaly any help and info would be great be it goo or bad thanks :good:

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I did have a D40 a few years ago so ...

 

A lot of the clutch / half shaft issues were caused by company-owned cars, which were driven very hard. As I'm sure you are aware, the D40 has quite a lot of power and torque, so there can be issues there.

 

The engine is the same basic engine from the D22, as far as I'm aware. (but see below, re. oil changes, as a lot of the old D22 issues were caused by long service gaps, and poor quality oil)

Timing chains : as with any modern vehicle with a timing chain, oil changes are critical. Unfortunately, due to the fleet market, service intervals have been pushed out to 15-20k for a large number of vehicles. When you get to 80-100k, this then turns out to be fatal. (Don't get me started on this lot though, or I'll rant for hours). The same holds true for any timing chain car, be it a BMW or a Hyundai.

If you can, find one that has been serviced more than recommended. If not, then when you get it, have a good service done. From then on, do an oil and filter change every 6-10k.

I loved mine. It was a 05/55 manual Outlaw, with what was called the 'Premium pack' , so leather, heated seats, but no nav. Got it 6 months old with 10k on the clock. Had it for 2 years, did 55k in it, and it never missed a beat

Note : even in the full double cab ones, the back seats are not the most comfortable place for a long journey. The floor in the back seems a little high, so people sit with the underside of their thighs off the seat base. Not nice for a long trip.

 

I know someone who has had a 06/06 one from new. It's now done 120k (was in it the other day). It still drives nicely, pulls well, and feels solid, with very little in rattles, etc. It is used as a proper working vehicle too.

 

I used to get 33-35 mpg. I do know people who only reckon they get in the low 20s, but I also know they like to drive quite hard

Oh, one other thing. They're bloody huge. About a foot longer than a Range Rover

Edited by robbiep
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I have a 58 plate navara aventura "long way down" and think it is a great vehicle,try and get one without a tow bar,they do exist but are hard to find, and a service history is a must,the loading bay will give you an idea if it has had a hard life,lots of dents and scratches and it means that someone didn't care about the rear,why would they care about anything else.

Mine does 30-40k a year and was on 30k when i bought it regular servicing as per service schedule and it will be fine,and i only use shell or bp fuel,(i know some say they are all the same,but i tried asda and tesco,and there is a difference performance and mpg wise) you should get about 30mpg,at the moment i get about 500 miles from a tank.and i also blanked off my EGR valve,which will save your engine in the long run,it had its mot the other week and no problems with the emissions,just give it a good drive on the way to the mot station.

 

It is not dedicated 4x4 and a lot have been damaged by people running them on the road in the wet in 4x4,they have a fixed diff when in 4x4 mode so the wheels all turn at the same speed,you run it in 4x4 on the road and you will wind the diff up.

It rarely gets stuck,i leave it in rear wheel drive until it slips and then pop it into 4x4,once out of the slippy stuff back into rear wheel drive.a nice set of tyres helps,at the moment i have cooper discoverer atr which are a good road/off road combination,and not to loud.

 

Some dealerships are rip off merchants, and if you are handy you can do some repairs yourself saving a lot of money.have a look at this site some great info

http://www.nissan-navara.net/

 

Just remember it is a big lump of metal and you don't want to rag it around,or with all the torque you will end up paying for lots of repairs.

 

As said the rear seats are an inch or so shorter,my 6'son pointed this out,but an hour later he was asleep for the next two hours to uni,so i t c'ant be that uncomfortable.

 

On the navara site it shows you how to reset the injectors and put the engine into learning mode,so when you get to much injector rattle you do a reset and it works really well at reducing the rattle,and again helps with the fuel economy.

 

I got rid of a vivaro sportive van for my navara,and i wont be going back to a van.

 

 

navaraoc.jpg

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My dad works for Nissan, the engine problem doesn't exist (as far as im aware)with the new model but they do have a problem with the alloy wheels had a lot of recalls on them for that, just keep cracking for no apparent reason. other than that great truck really good 4x4 system

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Not related but was is/causes injector rattle?

 

:shaun:

 

To be honest I don't know,it's not as if it is a very bad noise,it is a commercial truck not a family car after all,but occasionally they get a bit louder,a quick reset and they are down to that familiar diesel noise.

 

 

My dad works for Nissan, the engine problem doesn't exist (as far as im aware)with the new model but they do have a problem with the alloy wheels had a lot of recalls on them for that, just keep cracking for no apparent reason. other than that great truck really good 4x4

system

 

Nissan are fairly good on their recalls, I had my alloys checked,all ok, and a cable checked under the driver seat,that some navaras had experienced seat movement,garage were quick and fitted me in around my work.

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Got one here aswell mate, Aventura top of the range spec, on a 56 plate, I haggled the price to six grand trade sale from a nissan contact I have. FSH, black, back cover etc etc.

 

They are known for ALOT of problems, however all vehicles always have a degree of problems, mines had: rear axle, front hubs, trnasfer box, 3 4x4 switches on the dash, 2 turbos and the usual recalls, ie new wheels yesterday and seat wiring harnesses.

 

However, it's a bloody good truck returning a constant mpg no matter how I drive. Test drive one, so long as it starts well with no smoke, pulls hard, steers without knocking, etc etc it'll be a good truck. Mine has just developed a the door actuator problem (can't open it from inside) so I'll rip it apart next week and fit a secondhand unit from ebay.

 

Servicing is very easy if you can wield a spanner etc. I fully serviced mine for about £80, £120 with pollen filters and gearbox oil (I get trade) Nissan quoted me £319 for front brakes and discs yesterday, however I ordered the parts from Andrew Page for £90 and I'll be fitting them in a few days.

 

Go for it mate, It sounds stupid but a new engine isn't that expensive when it eventually dies and they are really easy to fit.

 

Best of luck

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You can reset the ECU using a set procedure from the drivers seat, it helps with mpg and helps stop the injector rattle. I've built a hell of alot of cars and trucks in the last 10 years from the chassis up and I have to say it's a pleasure to work on the D40, I'll be ripping mine apart over the summer to galv the chassis and fit new polybushes, suspension lift kit, bodylift kit and arctic arches, wheel spacers and wheels. Hopefully it should end up a decent toy :)

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  • 5 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

could someone please tell me or post a link to the injector reset procedure please thanks

 

Here you go mate,here's the link,http://www.nissan-navara.net/viewtopic.php?f=47&t=5786

The forum recommends you run your Nav for about 20 miles,do the reset and then run it another 20 miles straight away.

Can;t seem to do a live link,easy way is to join forum,and go to the how to thread,it is a couple of topics down.

 

 

ROB CAN YOU MAKE THIS A STICKY PLEASE BOSS!

 

Thanks to Boohoo for reading through the workshop manual, resetting ECU and FUEL pump MAY help in cutting down on that horrible tapping noise that the D40 suffers from.

Ive carryed out this reset and the engine is alot smoother, more responsive, less smokey and alot less tappy.

 

To carry out the reset carry out the following

 

Turn ingnition on so all dash lights come on.

 

Wait 3 seconds

 

PUMP accelerator pedel 5 times within 5 seconds....

 

with foot now OFF accelerator wait 7 seconds...

 

After 7 seconds press and hold down accelerator pedel for 10 seconds...

 

Atfer 10 seconds the Engine Managment Light will start to flash, at this point remove foot from accelerator.

 

the Nav is now in diag mode, so let the EML flash for a bit. the press and hold the acclerator pedel down for more than 10 seconds..this will then reset ECU and fuel pump etc......and put them into learning mode.

 

NOTE: When the EML light is flashing, this is listing possible fault codes... so if you know how to read the fault codes or know the sequences then you can figure out any possible faults with your Nav with out getting the dealer to do it!! icon_biggrin.gif

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