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Guest cookoff013

either the load is too full in the case, or the crimp settings are too deep.

 

i`m 1/2 way through a tutorial on how to do crimps. (with photostatic images.)

 

cook.

 

when you say spare hand, is that spare but in good condition, or absolutely mullered?

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My experience is.

1) Set the rammer tube to just press the wad in so its sits on the powder and is not compressed onto the powder. Do this by slackening off the grub screw and pull the rammer tube up. Pull the handle down to its stop and then gently slide the rammer tube by hand until it seats the wad. Tighten grub screw.

 

2) Start with the pre-crimp as high up as the it will go by slackening both nuts and raising to the max, retighten.

 

3) There are two settings on the 2nd crimp. One is the cam on the handle above the 2nd crimp. Small allen bolt in it. That adjusts the top edge of the final crimp and closes the petals in. The other adjustment is the plunger that pushes into the centre of the crimp. Both are probably set too deep so they are giving you these problems.

 

4) Get a new unfired shell and put it into the 2nd stage. With the cam bolt, start by slackening it off and moving the cam up as far as it will go, slot upper most. Then slacken the nut under the slotted screw in the 2nd stage crimp and wind the screw up. This will raise the plunger.Keep doing this until you can pull the handle down and not make contact with the cartridge. When you are at this stage, with the handle down, gently turn the slotted screw until you feel a slight resistance. Hopefully it will have touched the factory crimp and that's your depth. This one and the cam are very sensitive so very small adjustments at a time.

 

5) If your crimp now looks too open, just adjust the cam back down a tiny bit, 0.5-1mm at a time. If you go too far the crimp petals will start swirling.

 

I'm sure one of the gurus, will give you exact measurements, but this will give you an idea how it works. Hope it helps.

Edited by turbo33
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Don't know can't find any data on how to do it

I had a go with 70mm and 67mm

Also changed wads

Should there be a stop to set different case lengths.

I am using new cases 11/8 shot load

PS its a 12g

Also got some bushes not the powder bushes but don't know what they are for

Look like a top hat

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I can't get this to work

Been trying for hours

F/up 25 new cases so gave up and loaded on the old leeload all

And got a good crimp every time

The crimp start on a MEC is designed to seek out the folds on a USED shell case. However, some folk are satisfied with the crimps of new cases when using the MEC.

 

ME? Hell no! The crimps effected on NEW cases by a LeeLoadAll are by way of a definite 'cut' which allows the petals to meet snugly together after crimping.

I can get this on all my MECs because years ago, I butchered a Lee and sawed off the 6 star crimp start. I glued in an insert and fashioned a fixing from a set-pin and two nuts. Remember, this tool does not have to spin when using new cases BUT you do need to adjust the height of it.

 

When setting up the crimp on my MECS, I slackened off all of cams, screwed back the adjusting nuts and worked BACKWARDS from the final crimp station. By screwing down the outer and inner members onto a factory shell, I stopped adjusting when it 'felt right'. Do the same to the crimp station and adjust the cam and plunger. Set the crimp start to the correct height, (something you will have to learn!) and give it a run. Final adjustments can be made as you go.

 

GET A GAEP SPINNER!

Edited by Floating Chamber
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Guest cookoff013

i can second, all these things.

 

there is no stop for 67mm cases.

 

working backwards to sort things out.

 

you should have about 11mm mouth to crimp.

 

step one, slacken off all cams like FC said, thats the cam adjuster to the left. or of you are facing the reloader, the cam comes towards you. (i have 3 settings, left, middle right)

 

step two, with everything on the lightest settings. sort out the pre crimp by lowering it,and re-pre crimping the same shell, you can get away with very little.

 

step 3 the final pre crimp should be adjustable, dont forget, it is east to crush the shell, i hold the base when crimp testing to see how stressed the crimp is, as the buckling would be down 5mm from the brass/ steel head.

 

my crimp settings are about 11mm (thats from mesuring the crimp plunger rod) (this is slotted to adjust, screw up or down, i would advise you to go in 1/4 turn increments. )

 

after the shells are crimping, then its time to adjust with the final cam. gently does it.

Edited by cookoff013
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Guest cookoff013

step 3 the final pre crimp should be adjustable, dont forget, it is east to crush the shell, i hold the base when crimp testing to see how stressed the crimp is, as the buckling would be down 5mm from the brass/ steel head.

 

eddited because i am a numpty.

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