Salizar Posted November 8, 2013 Report Share Posted November 8, 2013 I have a new .222 on order and having the barrel shortened to 20" and screw cut, probably won`t have it in my possession for a while (2 to 4 weeks) as I am having it proofed, what is the best method to break the barrel in, as in best ammo and cleaning procedure etc.? It`s a CZ 527 varmint, I traded my 527 American in J Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
remmy1100 Posted November 8, 2013 Report Share Posted November 8, 2013 For the first ten shots we recommend using jacketed bullets with a nitro powder load (Most Factory Ammo). Clean the oil out of the barrel before each shot using a simple window cleaner (like Windex®) which will soak the oil out of the pores. After firing each cartridge, use a good copper cleaner (one with ammonia) to remove the copper fouling from the barrel. We do not recommend anything with an abrasive in it since you are trying to seal the barrel, not keep it agitated. After cleaning with bore cleaner, clean again with window cleaner after each shot. Use window cleaner because many bore cleaners use a petroleum base which you want to remove before firing the next shot. This will keep the carbon from building up in the barrel (oil left in the pores, when burned, turns to carbon). To keep the temperature cool in the barrel, wait at least 5 minutes between break-in shots. The barrel must remain cool during the break-in procedure. If the barrel is allowed to heat up during the break-in, it will destroy the steel's ability to develop a home registration point, or memory. It will have a tendency to make the barrel "walk" when it heats up in the future. We have all seen barrels that, as they heat up, start to shoot high and then "walk" to the right. This was caused by improperly breaking in the barrel (generally by sitting at a bench rest and shooting 20 rounds in 5 minutes or so). If you take a little time in the beginning and do it right, you will be much more pleased with the barrel in the future. Look into the end of the barrel after firing a shot, and you will see a light copper-colored wash in the barrel. Remove this before firing the next shot. Somewhere during the procedure, around shot 6 or 7, it will be obvious that the copper color is no longer appearing in the barrel. Continue the window cleaner and bore cleaner applications through shot 10. Following the initial ten shots, you then may shoot 2 rounds, cleaning between each pair of shots, for the next 10 shots. This is simply insuring that the burnishing process has been completed. In theory, you are closing the pores of the barrel metal that have been opened and exposed through the cutting and hand lapping procedures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Salizar Posted November 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2013 For the first ten shots we recommend using jacketed bullets with a nitro powder load (Most Factory Ammo). Clean the oil out of the barrel before each shot using a simple window cleaner (like Windex®) which will soak the oil out of the pores. After firing each cartridge, use a good copper cleaner (one with ammonia) to remove the copper fouling from the barrel. We do not recommend anything with an abrasive in it since you are trying to seal the barrel, not keep it agitated. After cleaning with bore cleaner, clean again with window cleaner after each shot. Use window cleaner because many bore cleaners use a petroleum base which you want to remove before firing the next shot. This will keep the carbon from building up in the barrel (oil left in the pores, when burned, turns to carbon). To keep the temperature cool in the barrel, wait at least 5 minutes between break-in shots. The barrel must remain cool during the break-in procedure. If the barrel is allowed to heat up during the break-in, it will destroy the steel's ability to develop a home registration point, or memory. It will have a tendency to make the barrel "walk" when it heats up in the future. We have all seen barrels that, as they heat up, start to shoot high and then "walk" to the right. This was caused by improperly breaking in the barrel (generally by sitting at a bench rest and shooting 20 rounds in 5 minutes or so). If you take a little time in the beginning and do it right, you will be much more pleased with the barrel in the future. Look into the end of the barrel after firing a shot, and you will see a light copper-colored wash in the barrel. Remove this before firing the next shot. Somewhere during the procedure, around shot 6 or 7, it will be obvious that the copper color is no longer appearing in the barrel. Continue the window cleaner and bore cleaner applications through shot 10. Following the initial ten shots, you then may shoot 2 rounds, cleaning between each pair of shots, for the next 10 shots. This is simply insuring that the burnishing process has been completed. In theory, you are closing the pores of the barrel metal that have been opened and exposed through the cutting and hand lapping procedures. Thanks for info, now the long wait for the return of my fac and new gun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frenchieboy Posted November 11, 2013 Report Share Posted November 11, 2013 Agree with the above. You could substitute the"Windex" window cleaner for methylated spirits if you wish - I know I would.The only thing that I would add is that you could considder using PPU ammunition to bed your barrel in, it's quite good and much cheaper (Often about half the price) than most other factory ammunition. My 527 in .222 is fine with PPU so you never know, you might even fine out that your rifle is happy and accurate firing PPU ammunition too which makes your shooting a lot lighter on the pocket! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henry d Posted November 11, 2013 Report Share Posted November 11, 2013 I would also say get 100-200 rounds down the barrel after the bedding in process before going out after your quarry, build up your muscle memory and get to know how it works in different wind conditions and for all the distances you need to shoot on your ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Salizar Posted November 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2013 Just had a phone call from Sportsman, my new gun is in, CZ 527 Varmint .222 barrel chop to 20" and screw cut , going up tomorrow to have a look and put the new Mamba scope on and bore sight it in. Only problem is my cert not back yet, would of been back by now if I had not asked to have it opened on my .22RF .17Mach2 and .222 CF and have AOLQ added. In hindsight perhaps I should have just done the one for one for now (stupid rule), but I did not think it would have come back from the proof house until earliest 22nd Nov. Hopefully I`ll have it back before Christmas. atb P S What mod do you reckon? Quietest for up to £250.00 and best over that. Not quite sure which will fit over a chopped varmint barrel yet. I would prefer a reflex type to keep the overall length down. JB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dekers Posted November 15, 2013 Report Share Posted November 15, 2013 Just had a phone call from Sportsman, my new gun is in, CZ 527 Varmint .222 barrel chop to 20" and screw cut , going up tomorrow to have a look and put the new Mamba scope on and bore sight it in. Only problem is my cert not back yet, would of been back by now if I had not asked to have it opened on my .22RF .17Mach2 and .222 CF and have AOLQ added. In hindsight perhaps I should have just done the one for one for now (stupid rule), but I did not think it would have come back from the proof house until earliest 22nd Nov. Hopefully I`ll have it back before Christmas. atb P S What mod do you reckon? Quietest for up to £250.00 and best over that. Not quite sure which will fit over a chopped varmint barrel yet. I would prefer a reflex type to keep the overall length down. JB As always there is the boom, nothing much you can do about that, but the .222 is hardly heavy on powder, so most mods should do a pretty fair job of keeping the propellant bang down! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wildfowler.250 Posted November 15, 2013 Report Share Posted November 15, 2013 I've got a bad itch for a .222! But then I've not long had the .22-250. Hope you enjoy it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Salizar Posted November 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2013 I've got a bad itch for a .222! But then I've not long had the .22-250. Hope you enjoy it I love the .222, the American I had was good I could 5p 50g`s at 100 yds. on a good day but it warmed up a tad too quick on the range with the sporter type barrel. Privy ammo was pretty good even though the barrel was slightly pitted, hope this one is as accurate when I`ve done the break in bit. Go on, treat yourself to a triple deuce for Christmas, you will have fun on the range and some, factory ammo is not a bad price and you can see the bullet hit. I had a Nikko Sterling Gold AO on the American, Which was pretty good, but the Varmint is having a MTC Mamba IR SRB Ret. not sure how they are with lamp though, but they seem good in daylight. atb JB. I live in Dorset, (although my Dad was a Geordie) I`ve just acquired a 1700 acre permission just a mile and a half down the road from me. I used to beat there years ago. They have a weekly shoot, usually -100 bird days, the keeper is sort of part time so I try and keep the pests under control, the .222 is ideal as a fox gun. JB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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