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Outbuilding construction


ME
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While we're sharing piccies.. This is one of my out-buildings. (Well, I built the masonry, a chippy fitted the roof structure and the clients covered it and made the doors).

Its not a renovation but a ground-up new build. The client wanted to build a light industrial/office rental unit on the site of a ruined cart house, of which only half a gable wall and some grassed over foundations remained. A planning condition was that the new building must be as faithful as possible a recreation of the original as depicted in historic parish photographs, hence quirks like the off-centre gable window and the inclusion of random lumps of sandstone and limestone in the flint work.

Its a standard 4" insulated cavity construction built around a set of steel gable frames which allow an open-plan first floor with the roof slopes uncluttered by structural timbers. All the flint work is knapped and coursed laid free-hand. No precast flint block was used.

The front and rear elevations are plain 4" cavity block work, timber clad, and the heavy doors are replicas of some oak doors which were at one time fitted to the original and now serve as sympathetic security shutters protecting glazed windows and doors behind. The gables are also 4" cavity construction except the outer leaf is 9" comprising 6" of brick/flint and stone against a 3" concrete backing block and built to shadow the adjacent walls by 8" to accommodate the cladding, the gutter pipes and the shutters and to create the impression of 18" solid wall construction.

It was a lovely job to do and I wish I could do more of them. Unfortunately few people will stomach the cost of natural flint work or care as much these clients did about the integrity of local architecture. I wish there were more like them. I'm not wild about the grey mortar. Planning did not stipulate a mortar spec and the client wanting to save money went for bog standard grey cement and hydrated lime with whatever building sand they could get at the best price. Left to myself I'd have used hydraulic lime with a ginger and silver sand blend. Still, its their money and their choice and its weathering quite well.

I got through several pairs of gloves, two pairs of trousers (I hate aprons) and one hammer knapping flints against my thigh, and one car window which got hit by a flint shard - told them not to park there.

I grew up with these old farm buildings and it was nice to play a part in bringing one of them back to life. Makes a change to see a working building rather than just another cute barn conversion. Make a cracking shed wouldn't it?

Edited by Gimlet
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Morning all,

 

I am in the process of trying to get quotes for a garden outbuilding. I want the main structure built from bricks & blocks but the front elevation (the only bit we see from the house) to be clad in timber.

 

I am limited on floor space but need it to be as warm as possible.

 

My question is how to include the insulation:

 

1) Construct double skin blockwork, insulate the cavity and baton & clad the outside front.

 

2) Single skin blockwork, clad the outside front and stud the inside, insulate and plasterboard.

 

3) Single skin blockwork, use large batons / stud on the outside, insulate the outside and clad over. (would need to clad all the outside)

 

 

Also, I am looking to construct from two courses of engineering bricks, a DPC and the rest in block up to a height of about 2.2 metres. There are two building areas, one is 6 x 4 metres and one is 3 x 3 metres with no windows but doors in the front of both areas. I would be interested to know an estimate at cost. It seems most of our local builders are too busy to even quote. :rolleyes:

 

 

Thanks all

 

 

You're from Essex, Just use an old caravan. Job jobbed :D

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Lovely building Gimlet shame the roof wasnt done in local stone or tile.

 

figgy

 

Originally it would have been thatched. But there's all sorts of issues now with thatch and commercial buildings, to say nothing of cost. And after the war most vernacular farm buildings got covered in tin, so much so that its practically become a traditional material. In fact the planners wanted tin to match other such building in the area. I don't dislike it but it'll look a lot better when it dulls down a bit. Its only about three years old.

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Haven't read the whole thread so sorry if it's been mentioned. but have you thought of sip panels (rigid polystyrene? spelling ) between

osb board. you can get it in different thickness. 4'' or 6''.

I've just done an Oak framed house with it very strong and solid, and when your used to it, very fast to put up .

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