Where and what

[daystate 177]

I'm looking to have ago at reloading 12 bore shells, not as a cost effective thing but more a hobbie when not shooting, I see the name lee load all come up a lot and seen the videos on YouTube, looking at making clay bashing loads

So will need

Carts primers powder shot(will try making this) wads can you use both plas and fibre in a press?

Anything else? Also where do I buy?

Many thanks adam

[figgy]

Clay and game or Folkestone engineering were doing a very good value starter kit.

[daystate 177]

Cheers figgy just checked can't find it on either

[clakk]

norman clark rugby,countryman of derby ,sporting supplies bloxwich ,FES and siarm all good .for reloading advice cookoff 13 ,sitsinhedges and roughshooter <graham>all give sensible advice to novices .evilbay does have people selling plas and fibre wads and overshot cards.dont forget to check out the sales section on here .theres always someone giving up/selling up so bargins can be had.if you get big style into it then shotgun world a u/s forum will have all the advise to confuse a badger on it .atb

[Guest cookoff013]

I'm looking to have ago at reloading 12 bore shells, not as a cost effective thing but more a hobbie when not shooting, I see the name lee load all come up a lot and seen the videos on YouTube, looking at making clay bashing loads

So will need

Carts primers powder shot(will try making this) wads can you use both plas and fibre in a press?

Anything else? Also where do I buy?

Many thanks adam

 

daystadam,

its expensive however some loads are cheaper than factory.

 

there are a few posts by "uncle albert" aka "dave". he has most recently took the plunge into reloading and i believe he uses the lee load all 2.

the easyest and most accessable shells for you to manufacture are 12-70mm, cx2000, 20-21 grain of vectan AS, H24 b&p lead wad, 28grams if shot. crimp.

its what i tell everyone to make at the start because its easy and not too bad economy wise.

if you want fibre wads there is the equivalent in fibre.... same as, i`ve reloaded these alot. thats why i love new cases,

 

first i can say, read up on it, get some books.

then find someone to teach you, its not ideal, as it does depend on the teacher wanting to ive enough effort into you.....(you know what i mean....)

 

if you get on the blower and ask john at FES to help. he will. if you ring him and say you`re just starting out i`m sure he can sort something out such as a reloading kit or he could advise and sell you the total components for 500 shells.

 

dave aka "uncle albert" fell right in the trap of "buying whatever" then trying to make do and try and get it to fit.

[daystate 177]

 

daystadam,

its expensive however some loads are cheaper than factory.

 

there are a few posts by "uncle albert" aka "dave". he has most recently took the plunge into reloading and i believe he uses the lee load all 2.

the easyest and most accessable shells for you to manufacture are 12-70mm, cx2000, 20-21 grain of vectan AS, H24 b&p lead wad, 28grams if shot. crimp.

its what i tell everyone to make at the start because its easy and not too bad economy wise.

if you want fibre wads there is the equivalent in fibre.... same as, i`ve reloaded these alot. thats why i love new cases,

 

first i can say, read up on it, get some books.

then find someone to teach you, its not ideal, as it does depend on the teacher wanting to ive enough effort into you.....(you know what i mean....)

 

if you get on the blower and ask john at FES to help. he will. if you ring him and say you`re just starting out i`m sure he can sort something out such as a reloading kit or he could advise and sell you the total components for 500 shells.

 

dave aka "uncle albert" fell right in the trap of "buying whatever" then trying to make do and try and get it to fit.

Thank you and the others for taking the time in replying, I understand the teaching thing it's the same in all areas of life and iv been there myself before with regards to teaching, I will get on the phone to fes today see what they can arrange, regarding cost wise it's more of a hobby to take my mind off the time between shooting

[Uncle Albert]

Hiya Daystate. I would advise getting hold of the Lyman Shotshell Reloading Manual 5th addition. The first half is the bit you need to read carefully, probably twice at least. Then you have to decide exactly what you want to reload. I would suggest you start with clay shells. If you get in touch with F.E.S then he will sell you all the basic stuff. Be advised that if you have to get the powder and primers by post, you will incur the Hazmat costs, £30.00. for this reason you would be well advised to get the powder more locally. The second part of the Lyman manual deals with loading data. The powders it deals with are American and costs twice that of European powder. I fell into that trap. I started off with Aliant Red Dot which was going for £36.00 per 500grms.

 

Cookoff put me onto F.E.S in Folkestone. He sells Vectan, a European powder which he sells for £35.00 per Kg and just as good. John at FES will see you right with all the components to make up a very good shell. I use spent shell cases from the clay ground so no expense there. Most clay grounds will be only too happy to let you help yourself. Another one nearer you is Clay and Game in Hull and there are bound to be others closer. Don't know about prices there though.

 

You need to work out how many you want to reload. You won't save much on clay shells but it's a great addition to your hobby. A lot of reloaders use the Lee Load-All. This is a cheap press at about £55.00 but it does have limitations. Unmodified, you can only reload 70mm cases and it does take time to get into the swing of things. You do get the majority of the bushes you will need for both powder and shot but remember it's made for the American market. The next one up would probably be the MEC which goes for about £150.00-£180.00. More expensive but it can be used for loading different gauges and steel and is adjustable for different length cases.

 

Don't fall into the trap I did, powder and wads from a local source and shot from someone else. Wads were too short, shot was dirty, overpriced and had lots of bits of wood shavings in it and powder was too expensive. I learned the hard way. The important bit is to get the shot column right otherwise the shell will not crimp correctly. Get it right and it looks like a factory made jobby and patterns better. I've seen that for myself.

 

Best of luck with it and I hope you get off to a good start. Do your research first though and remember, you will be dealing with explosives so safety glasses and great care at all times. Record what you do so you can repeat it the next time. Slowly, slowly catchy monkey.

 

Dave

Edited January 13, 2015 by Uncle Albert

[Lord Geordie]

To answer your original question! Yes you van use the Lee to load plastic AND fibre wads. The nitro "overshot" cards can split the crimp area of a once fired cart! But popping them in by hand prevents this. I have loaded 1000s of fibre wad loads on the LEE and many more thousands on the MECs. As you are starting out, take the advice given! Start with the load data above, and rattle of a few to get the hang of your loader. You WILL make mistakes! Many "inc myself" cocked up in the begining. Forgeting to drop the power, or getting the drops back to front etc. It's a learning curve that never ends. But is very rewarding! When you dust your first clay, or take your first quarry with home loads, you will be chuffed to bits.

 

Stick to official, proofed data until you get an understanding of how everything works. Once you start to understand the balistics, pressures, speeds etc! You can always experiment. Have the loads sent for testing and see what you can create.

 

It's all very captivating and can be a bit expensive once you get into it. I want a new loader, I want a new dripper, I want a new spinner. Then you want a new guage shotgun and all the gear for that! Before you know it, you need a 18 x 8 foot workshop too. Then you will want lots of other toys to fill the workshop. I speak from experience

 

I am now settled with just my 12g as money doesn't grow on trees. I have my MEC, LEE and an old Bowman. And I will leave it at that. Unless I come into some money, which is highly unlikely.

 

I used to load upto 36 gram in 12g. But now I stick with 28 gram for everything. It does everything I need on Clays and Pigeons.

 

Hope it all goes well for you! Once you get the bug, don't say I didn't warn you

Edited January 13, 2015 by Lord Geordie

[Guest cookoff013]

To answer your original question! Yes you van use the Lee to load plastic AND fibre wads. The nitro "overshot" cards can split the crimp area of a once fired cart! But popping them in by hand prevents this. I have loaded 1000s of fibre wad loads on the LEE and many more thousands on the MECs. As you are starting out, take the advice given! Start with the load data above, and rattle of a few to get the hang of your loader. You WILL make mistakes! Many "inc myself" cocked up in the begining. Forgeting to drop the power, or getting the drops back to front etc. It's a learning curve that never ends. But is very rewarding! When you dust your first clay, or take your first quarry with home loads, you will be chuffed to bits.

 

Stick to official, proofed data until you get an understanding of how everything works. Once you start to understand the balistics, pressures, speeds etc! You can always experiment. Have the loads sent for testing and see what you can create.

 

It's all very captivating and can be a bit expensive once you get into it. I want a new loader, I want a new dripper, I want a new spinner. Then you want a new guage shotgun and all the gear for that! Before you know it, you need a 18 x 8 foot workshop too. Then you will want lots of other toys to fill the workshop. I speak from experience

 

I am now settled with just my 12g as money doesn't grow on trees. I have my MEC, LEE and an old Bowman. And I will leave it at that. Unless I come into some money, which is highly unlikely.

 

I used to load upto 36 gram in 12g. But now I stick with 28 gram for everything. It does everything I need on Clays and Pigeons.

 

Hope it all goes well for you! Once you get the bug, don't say I didn't warn you

 

tell me about it, i`ve had 3 mecs, 2 single stage, JR and a sizemaster, then a rotory mec9000gn.

 

i use the single stages more so for development work. after that, the 9000 can churn out the volume.

[Uncle Albert]

Very habit forming but you can't beat the buzz you get from dusting a long clay or a long pigeon you downed with a shell you loaded yourself.

[hawkeye]

Been making my own since 2008 including the shot i have used a mec 9000 progressive then i moved on to a ponsness warren 800

and that does all i need and don't seen to have the shot and powder spillage i used to get with other reloads..

 

 

Infact think i will go into my loading room ( front bedroom live in a bungalow) and load a slab ready for the next time on clays or pigeons..

Edited January 14, 2015 by hawkeye

[Lord Geordie]

Been making my own since 2008 including the shot i have used a mec 9000 progressive then i moved on to a ponsness warren 800

and that does all i need and don't seen to have the shot and powder spillage i used to get with other reloads..

 

 

Infact think i will go into my loading room ( front bedroom live in a bungalow) and load a slab ready for the next time on clays or pigeons..

Not a bad layout, when you have had enough, just fall back onto the bed for 40 winks! :lol: