One for the sparkies. Oven and microwave

[activeviii]

Just planing a new oven and combo microwave but need to get the wiring in place ready for the spark to come in and hard wire but he asked me to run the cabling. I use to do it all with no problems but since part p I just run cable and get spark in to commission and check.

As units will be in the way I need to get it right.

 

Single oven 3.45watt. So if I have turnings right that's 15amp

And a Combi microwave running Max of 3.65 watt. 16 amp.

 

As it is at the moment I have 6mm twin/earth running from consumer unit to isolation switch and then onto the plate connector behind the oven that was/is there at the moment.

Cable has a run of 5 meters from consumer unit to ISO. Then ½ meters to plate.

 

Questions are.

 

Will the 32 amp fuse be OK as is.

 

Will a second 6mm need to be run so there would be 2. One for each appliance.

What ISO switch do I need. Dose it need to have to switch's or can the both be wired into the one place and then the isolator to control both at once.

 

Sparkies is away and I need to get it in ready for when the kitchen fitter starts or I'll be beggered up.

 

Thank for help gents

[oliver90owner]

For someone who has done this (many?) times before, you are short on decades and units.

 

Kilowatts, not Watts and conductor cross sectional area is in square mm, not linear mm.

 

6mm^2 conductors are good for 45A. Fuses are there to protect the suppy cable, not the item - an earth fault will blow the fuse as long as the conductors are of sufficient cross section. A 32 amp fuse would/should only be at risk if everything struck up at once. As far as isolators are concerned, I know not.

[activeviii]

Yer! Cheers for the help..... Not

[team tractor]

Single ovens and microwaves plug straight in . No need the hard wire in

[activeviii]

thanks TT.

 

only thing is, the microwave is 16amp and the oven is 15amp. i thought plugs were 13amp fused or less.

 

think ill have to put off the kitchen fitter till sparks back as i cant afford to get it wrong.

[superspark]

Hi activeviii,

Just reading your post. Where have you got the item current ratings from? Did you read them off the tally plates on the items? There will be a plate on each item stating its operating current.

Based on what you have stated your going to have to run in another cable, this doesn't have to be 6.0mm squared but can be 4.0mm squared.

To be honest I would run in a 6.0mm squared for future proofing. With both cables in, have yourself another cooker outlet plate fitted so you would now have a separate connection for each item. Now at the fuse board, down rate the original mcb/fuse to 16 amps and fuse your new circuit to 16 amps. This will not only protect the cable if there is a short circuit or overload but with help protect the appliance from damage.

Remember, the domestic appliances need to be rcd protected. Switched fused spurs are max rated at 13 amps so wouldn't last long pulling slightly above max current and double pole switches are 20 amp rated so the best way is to fuse down at the fuse board, hope this helps.

[activeviii]

cheers for the superspark

looks like a wall full of sockets and isos, no need for tiles now as there will be no room

 

all the ratings came direct from the neff website for the items she has ordered. their now on back order so i cant even get me head around the back of them to look.

 

would be nice if i could find a double cooker iso switch as it would be neater.

 

 

i hate kitchens.

[Wilts#Dave]

Run in another 2.5mm twin and earth, fuse both circuits at 16 amps and wire the appliances to seperate 20ampb double poled isolators....I like to put the switches in adjacent cupboards when there are multiple appliances in one area, looks awful with switches galore above the worktops!!