ratus Posted May 21, 2007 Report Share Posted May 21, 2007 When i walk my 7 month Lab pup in the morning,and in the evening, i let him run free so he can releive himself and have a run about with his ball, till he does his business, then the ball goes away and the slip leash is replaced by his collar and 30ft lead, and a dummy repalces his ball, then we will do approx 15 mins of training. He seems to realise whats happening, and is comming on,He heels well when on a leash but off it he will wander, but returns when called /whistled.(most of the time) But he still has his mad 2 minutes, during his training, i just ignore him and he seems a bit miffed as i dont react, Does this sound the right way to deal with it? Any advice appperciated RATUS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v-max Posted May 22, 2007 Report Share Posted May 22, 2007 Hello good thing given them 5/10min free time before training .Why the 30ft lead he should be quite bidable by now you start them off sitting/staying close at first then increase distance as both your confidence grow's & by now he should be sitting/staying 20/30yrd easy.If he start's his madness while training get him stop him & sit him let him know it's a no/no..Try vary your pattren & place's you train & wouldent allow a ball for a toy it would be part of my training tool's & on my term's if not back to basic sit/stay when i say.Whatch ball's as dog's can mouth them ie squease them ie hard mouth them but once ok a tennis racket & ball good to speed dog's up fast for retreive's.Remember at all time's keep the training fun & alway's finish on an easy high you know he can do & progress it as you go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratus Posted May 22, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2007 Hello good thing given them 5/10min free time before training .Why the 30ft lead he should be quite bidable by now you start them off sitting/staying close at first then increase distance as both your confidence grow's & by now he should be sitting/staying 20/30yrd easy.If he start's his madness while training get him stop him & sit him let him know it's a no/no..Try vary your pattren & place's you train & wouldent allow a ball for a toy it would be part of my training tool's & on my term's if not back to basic sit/stay when i say.Whatch ball's as dog's can mouth them ie squease them ie hard mouth them but once ok a tennis racket & ball good to speed dog's up fast for retreive's.Remember at all time's keep the training fun & alway's finish on an easy high you know he can do & progress it as you go. The reason for the drag rope is he is not steady enough and when he has a mad moment he's a ****** for running off if another dog shows up. its for his own safety really. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul in North Lincs. Posted May 23, 2007 Report Share Posted May 23, 2007 never used a drap/lunge rope on my pup......I dont mind them 'hunting on' abit when they are young mind youg,..I think it gives them that bit more confindence. ..................why no try doing a bit more work with the stop whistle and recall comands?.......you should be able to gain abit more control over the pup then.......and stop him from mooching off He still is a babby though really! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v-max Posted May 23, 2007 Report Share Posted May 23, 2007 Hello i think you need to go back to basic's till it's in there then progress.I am not a pro handler but have 3 lab's a 7/8month cocker & a terrier & as paul say's spaniel's are best to develop but with the basic's ie /name of dog as on name called they should come back.I have only resently started my cocker training as i have left him to develop his hunting & not supress him as i need his brain the body is just the rest of the dog & he is now fast on hunt & i would have a wild dog over a timmed 1 as you can soon screw it down.Iv worked dog's for 11/12yrs & trust me basic's is the key to it all as i only use dog's name & when called dog will return or name & here together & on my tone of voice they varie speed back to me.Sit & heal & at diffrent tone's pendin required.Then hand signal's or verbal goback.You need to make him sit walk 2/3ft go back to him or call him to you laod's of praise & gain distance as you go i do this in my living room with cocker for a start & they soon learn.As confidence grow's with you at 20/30ft then start dummy work.My cocker know's that it's no/no with other dog's i sit him but get ready incase then allow him to walk once dog past.He's 7 month's & yes a pup but dog's are fast learner's & stop thinking that it's a pup & yake command & show him what you expect of him he will learn your stander's his aim is only to please you.Once he learn's about pheasant's etc how do you expect him to stop as he will be the same as now with dog's gone!. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new to the flock Posted May 23, 2007 Report Share Posted May 23, 2007 Ratus, Not wrong with airing your dog out for 10 or 15 minutes before training. And it is good to see that you recognise the fact that your dog is not finished on his stop or recall , and that you have taken precautions with the drag line so that you can control and correct him if a problem arrises. I think that you are working in the right direction and taking the correct steps. I would suggest that you invest in a retractable lead that you can use to help train the recall. This lead will also allow you to work around distrations like children and other dogs retaining control, while teaching the comand. I would suggest a Flexi 3.8 they are 28 feet long and are an excellant piece of training equiptment. NTTF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratus Posted May 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2007 Ratus, Not wrong with airing your dog out for 10 or 15 minutes before training. And it is good to see that you recognise the fact that your dog is not finished on his stop or recall , and that you have taken precautions with the drag line so that you can control and correct him if a problem arrises. I think that you are working in the right direction and taking the correct steps. I would suggest that you invest in a retractable lead that you can use to help train the recall. This lead will also allow you to work around distrations like children and other dogs retaining control, while teaching the comand. I would suggest a Flexi 3.8 they are 28 feet long and are an excellant piece of training equiptment. NTTF Thanks once again for your advice, NNTF took the young lad out tonight he was as good as gold, responsive to commands almost straight away, and to top it off he jumped in the stream and swam out to stick which was floating by, he was excited with what he had just acheived but still reacted to commands, so we did a couple of short retreives then called it a day , hopefully this is a sign of things to come! will still get aretractable lead as you advised. Thanks to all for your tips & advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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