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tikka action screws.


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I know this has been brought up before on various forums but does anyone know what type, or should I say the technical term for the type of head on the action screws. I know that they are M6 x30 and M6x40 but are they countersunk etc. Yes I could take one of my Tikka but I would like to get some Torque headed ones before I give my rifles there Xmas strip down and clean and would like to get some in advance rather than paying a tenner each from Brownells. Any advice much welcome, my latest Tikka lite in 223 came with torque action screws. This makes it nice and easy to torque them down accurately each time.

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So why can't you take one out of your gun to compare against?...

 

Because I'm using the rifles over the xmas period and will not have chance to re check zero ( all my Tikkas are spot on at the moment ) so would like to get screws ready for action out clean, put together with the torque screwdriver that I put on my list to Santa and down the range to check zero, also want to check scopes are level with the levels I have also put on my Santa list. Taking one out and putting it back in again may not alter anything but will not chance it when stalking when there is no need. The Tikka screws look quite specialised and it might be best just to bite the bullet and get correct ones, the ones I have are slotted but want to change to torque drive as much easier to work with.

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Well I ordered five of button head, flat button head and countersunk but none of the heads are correct for the tikka trigger guard/mag plate, seems to be a flat button head with countersink. The nearest would be the counter sunk but heads to large so looks like Tikka have the market captured at £20 a pair. I didn't want torque heads that much anyway. Rifle now cleaned and re zeroed, scopes level and with correct torques along with the action, please to see that the action didn't show any signs of rust in the hidden extremities and its seen some serious wet weather this year.

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Bought black h/s ones, the countersink head is just too big in diameter and don't sit in the recesses on the trigger plate, I can only find full threaded ones were as the originals are shanked as only the bit that needs to be threaded is in the action. The only reason I want to change them is that torque screws are easier to torque down, slotted heads have a tendency for the bit to jump out and mark the screws. I don't strip the rifles ever few weeks, just the once a year spring clean, and unlike your rifles Phil mine get serious wet :lol::lol: Ok so there are never any deer out but its the only time I get out of work. :unhappy:

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Don't know if you had any joy with. Turvey Stalking but the kit he carries its from Lumley in Australia.

The screws are described as..

Action screws:

-304 Stainless Steel screws (silver colour).

-Socket head (cap) screws, custom made to suit DBM

-Screws also fit Tikka factory plastic bottom metal

-Non tapered heads for firm and secure fit against DBM.

-4mm hex socket size which readily interchanges with 5/32"

I don't have this T3 now, but I don't recall any fitting problems. Had a witness mark at the torque setting, easier to carry a key than the wrench when traveling.

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Don't know if you had any joy with. Turvey Stalking but the kit he carries its from Lumley in Australia.

The screws are described as..

Action screws:

-304 Stainless Steel screws (silver colour).

-Socket head (cap) screws, custom made to suit DBM

-Screws also fit Tikka factory plastic bottom metal

-Non tapered heads for firm and secure fit against DBM.

-4mm hex socket size which readily interchanges with 5/32"

I don't have this T3 now, but I don't recall any fitting problems. Had a witness mark at the torque setting, easier to carry a key than the wrench when traveling.

I called him but he'd packed up for xmas, I emailed him instead and still waiting, may ring him again later in the week

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Bought black h/s ones, the countersink head is just too big in diameter and don't sit in the recesses on the trigger plate, I can only find full threaded ones were as the originals are shanked as only the bit that needs to be threaded is in the action. The only reason I want to change them is that torque screws are easier to torque down, slotted heads have a tendency for the bit to jump out and mark the screws. I don't strip the rifles ever few weeks, just the once a year spring clean, and unlike your rifles Phil mine get serious wet :lol::lol: Ok so there are never any deer out but its the only time I get out of work. :unhappy:

two seconds to take a bit off on the lathe lol.

 

get a hollow ground flat bit, put the rifle in a gun vice so you can put pressure down in the right place and not had a problem, even torxing up to the pillar bedding poundage. unless your ham fisted and boss eyes :lol:

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two seconds to take a bit off on the lathe lol.

 

get a hollow ground flat bit, put the rifle in a gun vice so you can put pressure down in the right place and not had a problem, even torxing up to the pillar bedding poundage. unless your ham fisted and boss eyes :lol:

 

you know how to hurt don't you :sad1::sad1: ........ I'll be over to yours then at sometime to get em sorted, are you in need of 223 brass ?

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you know how to hurt don't you :sad1::sad1: ........ I'll be over to yours then at sometime to get em sorted, are you in need of 223 brass ?

Kettles always on for you sir.

Thanks for the thought of Brass. I have switched all mine to Norma and lapua.

I also managed to pick up 260 lapua for the creedmore too.

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