Gideon Posted June 3, 2007 Report Share Posted June 3, 2007 I had a similar problem. My FEO advised me to use coach screws to fix my safe to joists in the loft. You would need to destroy half the house to get the safe out. I guess this could be differenct in your area though. Best bet is to ask your FEO directly. I've sent him an e-mail, now just waiting for reply. I drilled a pilot hole in the plaster board to check the thickness looks like it has been trippled up (being a deviding wall to next door) it apears to be about 30mm thick. So I have done a temporary dry fit using 10x100mm coach scews for mounting the floor to the joists and using heavy duty butterfly plaster board fixings for hanging kitchen cuboards to fix the safe's back to the wall. All done I grabed the safe on the inside to get a grip and gave it a good pulling sesion. Being a fat *** at fifteen and a half stone I could not even make it creek let alone move at all. Saying that i'll wait for the FEOs verdict to that before i make it permanent. Thanks for the great advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ph5172 Posted June 3, 2007 Report Share Posted June 3, 2007 let us know how you get on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tikkamark Posted June 3, 2007 Report Share Posted June 3, 2007 The house I live in is a timber frame house with dry walls (plaster board inside) with no brick inside just out-side What do I do. i live in a timberframe house and have mounted mine in a room at the back of the chimney surely your house is the same? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gideon Posted June 4, 2007 Report Share Posted June 4, 2007 No Such luck it is quit a new build and no chimney! :blink: There is no brick work exposed inside this house. Hollow cheap houses costing a bomb to buy. Missed the FLO's phone call today left him a message again today hopefully i'll get hold of him tommorrow with a bit of luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gideon Posted June 6, 2007 Report Share Posted June 6, 2007 Wright ! I got a call back from the FO and had quite a long discusion about what is exeptable(please mind the spelling ). One of two things are exeptable to fix it in the house to a plaster board wall. I have to find where the joists are in the wall and bolt a piece of ply wood NOT mdf or presswood larger than the cabinet to the joists through the wood with coach screws then bolt the safe to the ply wood through the plasterbord into the joists as well. Orrrr the other option is, is to lay down a small area of flooring down in he attic bolting it down to the joists securing the safe through the wood into the same joists using again coach screws. To be honest I thing putting it in the attic sounds like the safe-est and easy-est option. Thats probably what i'll do. I need to experiment and test the temperature fluctuation in the loft between cold nights and warm days, to make sure I wont get any condensation in the safe and water on the guns. (any body done this before). The last thing I want is my guns rusting. Thanks for all help. Gideon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
currieboy Posted June 6, 2007 Report Share Posted June 6, 2007 i heard a story of some one who didnt want 2 drill 2 many holes in his wall so drilled one hole and attached this with bolt. for the other three he hacksawed off the bolt just below the nut and superglued the nut and stump of bolt onto cabinet. (i do not condone this behaviour in any way) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest oloveridge Posted July 3, 2007 Report Share Posted July 3, 2007 gun safes are easy to install just drill holes insert rawl bolts and tighten lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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