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Minimum case length


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Will someone explain to me about minimum case lengths for 233 and 243 please.

The nosler website states max case length is 2,045 for 243 but mine are 2,035 - 2,045 . Am I best to trim them all to 2,035 ?

How do I find out the minimum?

 

 

I like to learn and if I'm doing something I like to know why and how.

 

Thank you :)

Bit of additional info sent to you by other means Nath.

Hope it's going well.

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Been reloading for 40yrs or so starting with 308Win, through 6.5x55, 30-06, 458Win Mag, 22BR, 243Win(why I don't know), 7-30 Waters, 17 Rem, 300 Win Mag(another why ????), 7x57, 35 Whelen(great cartridge), 7 mm Rem Mag, 8x57JRS and my favourite, my wildcat 257RRI. Never found the requirement to anneal. Simply check case lengths and adjust if needed. If they look/seem a bit worse for wear I chuck 'em and buy some new ones. The cost compared with the annual outlay for my shooting is very small. I rarely if ever shoot at paper or anything inanimate, it just doesn't taste the same as a slice of muntie backstrap tossed in the skillet with some butter and garlic. If you are reloading for hunting, trim to the book, if a case shows the slightest sign of deterioration , bin it. Find a load and stick with it .... believe me I've been there and spent a fortune on powder and bullets. I very rarely if ever get complaints from my customers.

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Been reloading for 40yrs or so starting with 308Win, through 6.5x55, 30-06, 458Win Mag, 22BR, 243Win(why I don't know), 7-30 Waters, 17 Rem, 300 Win Mag(another why ????), 7x57, 35 Whelen(great cartridge), 7 mm Rem Mag, 8x57JRS and my favourite, my wildcat 257RRI. Never found the requirement to anneal. Simply check case lengths and adjust if needed. If they look/seem a bit worse for wear I chuck 'em and buy some new ones. The cost compared with the annual outlay for my shooting is very small. I rarely if ever shoot at paper or anything inanimate, it just doesn't taste the same as a slice of muntie backstrap tossed in the skillet with some butter and garlic. If you are reloading for hunting, trim to the book, if a case shows the slightest sign of deterioration , bin it. Find a load and stick with it .... believe me I've been there and spent a fortune on powder and bullets. I very rarely if ever get complaints from my customers.

 

That's the sort of point I was trying to make earlier but it was a little misunderstood :no: I have the same philosophy, when I started reloading I could not help experimenting, every scrap of info I read had to be tried but my loads were not consistent. Its not a crime and is an enjoyable learning curve though can become a little pricey. We can strive for that single hole group but there are more factors involved than just the load, but of course it is a factor but not the only one and we can all improve our groups just by technique alone. Lets face it if we could consistently shoot with that sort of accuracy we would be in the Olympic team. All my rifles shoot with boringly accurate consistency , I just reload for what I need. Occasionally I will just check zero but there is rarely a change ( though that's also down to decent scopes I suppose). I shoot deer and pigs, and don't shoot thousands of those a year ( had a nice young fallow doe this evening). I recently built myself an annealer, it hasn't improve accuracy( which was clover leaf at 100 anyway) , it was good fun in the making and I like the look of the cases, it will make the cases last longer, my cases have been averaging 15 reloads anyway, it will not make the cases last forever as you then have to start looking for head separation. Many shooters are put off reloading because it sounds so complicated and this can come across that way on these forums, its not, its fun but of course there is no harm in taking as far as you wish ( though using a target barrel may help more )

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