Decoys

[welshwanderer]

What’s are the best decoys to purchase ? Are turbo decoys and bouncers any good? 

[mossy835]

iv never got on with bouncers,and never used turbo decoys.best buy flocked decoys.or real birds are best.

[lakeside1000]

I run two turbo flappers and two magnets with approx 30 plastic decoys and 3 bouncers (some call them floaters )

Over the years I have experimented in many different ways with decoys, patterns and battery driven decoys, what I have now allows me to vary my patterns and layout to specific places, crops and pigeon reactions

Only time and experience will guide you to the best for your needs but its important not to rule out one thing compared to another until you have tried and tested them

I would say the most used parts of my gear are the 3 bouncers, mounted with dead birds , wings clipped out on wing spreaders, at least 50 to 80 yards down wind from the pattern, these act as 'sign posts ' to incoming birds directing them towards the main decoy pattern.

Second is at least one magnet mounted again with dead birds which I place out 20 yards upwind away from the decoys, this acts as a focal point for incoming birds, good movement but not directly between the bird and the landing area within the pattern.

Finally I start with around my 30 half shells placed in a random pattern but leaving some largish gaps in the centre for birds to home in on. Then as birds are taken I mount them on cradles, beginning at the back of the pattern and removing plastic decoys as I go, by the time I have dropped the first 20 to 25 birds and set them up I have virtually removed all my plastic decoys.

I try to set up my hide slightly to one side of the pattern so incoming birds are not looking directly into the hide as they approach, this reduces the amount that flare away just as you are coming up to take the shot.

Flappers on timers can be used as well as magnets or instead of them depending on the reaction of birds on approach, if birds seem nervous or move away onto a different line with the magnet spinning in front of them then I find flappers set down among the decoys instead of the magnet(s) gives birds more confidence to come right in.

The last thing to consider is range, I place decoy patterns between 25 yards and 40 yards from the hide, with a spread 10 yards out on the upwind side and 30 yards out on the down wind side, this will give you max coverage of approaching birds from down wind and allow you reasonable time to mount track and fire while the bird is over the pattern.Obviously it may be necessary to adjust these distances depending on your position and kill area.

Once you begin to get good numbers in the bag these things become second nature and you will only improve results with experience.

Not everyone will agree with me, that's ok , but it works for me, I started controlling pigeons when I was 15, working with a very good game keeper in Wiltshire, I am now 70 and I don't look for pigeon shooting any longer, it comes looking for me.best of luck, hope this helps.

[AYA117]

On ‎13‎/‎05‎/‎2018 at 14:27, lakeside1000 said:

I run two turbo flappers and two magnets with approx 30 plastic decoys and 3 bouncers (some call them floaters )

Over the years I have experimented in many different ways with decoys, patterns and battery driven decoys, what I have now allows me to vary my patterns and layout to specific places, crops and pigeon reactions

Only time and experience will guide you to the best for your needs but its important not to rule out one thing compared to another until you have tried and tested them

I would say the most used parts of my gear are the 3 bouncers, mounted with dead birds , wings clipped out on wing spreaders, at least 50 to 80 yards down wind from the pattern, these act as 'sign posts ' to incoming birds directing them towards the main decoy pattern.

Second is at least one magnet mounted again with dead birds which I place out 20 yards upwind away from the decoys, this acts as a focal point for incoming birds, good movement but not directly between the bird and the landing area within the pattern.

Finally I start with around my 30 half shells placed in a random pattern but leaving some largish gaps in the centre for birds to home in on. Then as birds are taken I mount them on cradles, beginning at the back of the pattern and removing plastic decoys as I go, by the time I have dropped the first 20 to 25 birds and set them up I have virtually removed all my plastic decoys.

I try to set up my hide slightly to one side of the pattern so incoming birds are not looking directly into the hide as they approach, this reduces the amount that flare away just as you are coming up to take the shot.

Flappers on timers can be used as well as magnets or instead of them depending on the reaction of birds on approach, if birds seem nervous or move away onto a different line with the magnet spinning in front of them then I find flappers set down among the decoys instead of the magnet(s) gives birds more confidence to come right in.

The last thing to consider is range, I place decoy patterns between 25 yards and 40 yards from the hide, with a spread 10 yards out on the upwind side and 30 yards out on the down wind side, this will give you max coverage of approaching birds from down wind and allow you reasonable time to mount track and fire while the bird is over the pattern.Obviously it may be necessary to adjust these distances depending on your position and kill area.

Once you begin to get good numbers in the bag these things become second nature and you will only improve results with experience.

Not everyone will agree with me, that's ok , but it works for me, I started controlling pigeons when I was 15, working with a very good game keeper in Wiltshire, I am now 70 and I don't look for pigeon shooting any longer, it comes looking for me.best of luck, hope this helps.

Well written and very sound advice