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Von chef knife sharpener .


dainty duck
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I don't think any tool replaces a properly worked edge by a human and the harder the steel, the more that's apparent. Do you happen to know what hardness (Rockwell C- HRC scale) yours are? If it's anything over 58, I'd be doing it myself for sure.

 

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6 hours ago, sportsbob said:

I did a search for the sharpener you are enquiring about and it appears there is a whole range available so I cant give any input, I have one of these and can only say it works really well.

 

https://www.pullthetrigger.co.uk/Work-Sharp-Knife-and-Tool-Sharpener-Ken-Onion-Edition

I was looking at one of those a  few years back and they are highly recommended , but I carnt justify the price for the amount of knives I need to sharpen , also thanks for taking the time to answer my question 👍

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6 hours ago, chrisjpainter said:

I don't think any tool replaces a properly worked edge by a human and the harder the steel, the more that's apparent. Do you happen to know what hardness (Rockwell C- HRC scale) yours are? If it's anything over 58, I'd be doing it myself for sure.

 

Hi Chris I have mixed collection of knives gathered over the years, most made in the UK , I got a full set kitchen knives from a school cook when they had to replace the traditional handles with molded ones a few years back , re the Rockwell hardness I don't know some are stainless some are carbon, 

they are mainly used for prepping game and venison , I tend to use a fine grit whet stone and a steel to keep the edge but the old hands aint that good these days and that's why I was thinking of going mechanical , all the best and thanks for the reply .

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21 hours ago, chrisjpainter said:

I don't think any tool replaces a properly worked edge by a human and the harder the steel, the more that's apparent.

I would agree, but I also take the point ..

14 hours ago, dainty duck said:

the old hands aint that good these days and that's why I was thinking of going mechanical

I use a manual 'system', stones with a guide system I can use.  I have found that using modern diamond stones, it is much less hard work by hand than non diamond stone types.  Diamond stones are so hard that even on very hard steel, they do the job with only light work.

I believe a 'powered' system can work OK, but there are two BIG pitfalls;

  1. They can build up too much heat right at the 'cutting edge' - and this can ruin a good knife.
  2. They can remove a lot of (too much) metal in a short time

In skilled hands, with a light touch they may well be capable of doing a decent job, but for me the old hand work process is, quite satisfying, does a good job and also causes minimal metal loss.  A little gentle work at frequent intervals is my guide.

I use a simple DMT diamond stone system.  The basic system is quite cheap,

https://heinnie.com/dmt-diafold-magna-guide-guide-only?srsltid=AfmBOop5OUSd1p9yGTAYKCkaaLQGVakXq0hX8QOGLI1dMS16GEowhxfTTYo

but there are also more comprehensive versions

https://www.amazon.co.uk/DMT-Aligner-Prokit-Sharpener-Multicolour/dp/B007C23UEC?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE

The one I use is an older version of the lower one and I have bought extra stones (extra coarse) for recovering badly damaged edges.

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23 hours ago, JohnfromUK said:

I would agree, but I also take the point ..

I use a manual 'system', stones with a guide system I can use.  I have found that using modern diamond stones, it is much less hard work by hand than non diamond stone types.  Diamond stones are so hard that even on very hard steel, they do the job with only light work.

I believe a 'powered' system can work OK, but there are two BIG pitfalls;

  1. They can build up too much heat right at the 'cutting edge' - and this can ruin a good knife.
  2. They can remove a lot of (too much) metal in a short time

In skilled hands, with a light touch they may well be capable of doing a decent job, but for me the old hand work process is, quite satisfying, does a good job and also causes minimal metal loss.  A little gentle work at frequent intervals is my guide.

I use a simple DM T diamond stone system.  The basic system is quite cheap,

https://heinnie.com/dmt-diafold-magna-guide-guide-only?srsltid=AfmBOop5OUSd1p9yGTAYKCkaaLQGVakXq0hX8QOGLI1dMS16GEowhxfTTYo

but there are also more comprehensive versions

https://www.amazon.co.uk/DMT-Aligner-Prokit-Sharpener-Multicolour/dp/B007C23UEC?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE

The one I use is an older version of the lower one and I have bought extra stones (extra coarse) for recovering badly damaged edges.

Thanks for the reply John , I think I'll have a go on the one from amazon , it says for kitchen knives and for less than £40 it won't break the bank if it doesn't do the job :good:

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24 minutes ago, dainty duck said:

Thanks for the reply John , I think I'll have a go on the one from amazon , it says for kitchen knives and for less than £40 it won't break the bank if it doesn't do the job :good:

Here is my DMT system and an Opinnel in the guide

2C353653-755F-4686-BE14-19AEE5A04B4D.jpeg

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Just now, dainty duck said:

John may seem a daft question but do you whet the blade or stone ?

You can either work dry, or use a little water.  Oil not recommended.  The 'stones' can be wiped down with a wet cloth to clean away any residue.

In the above photo, my 'set' has a extra coarse (black stone on left), coarse is blue, medium is red, green (in guide in photo) is fine and pinky white (on right in pouch) is extra fine.  The extra coarse and extra fine were extras I have added.  The extra coarse is good for badly damaged knives, but I rarely use it as I try and do mine little and often.  The extra fine is really too fine for any practical use.  My liking for 'complete sets' over practicality got the better of me on that one!

The blade is clamped in the knife holder.  The chosen stone is fitted in the stone handle which has a long steel wire guide rod which runs in the guide.  The angle is set by adjusting the guides (one for each side) and you can choose the grind angle to suit your knife being worked on.

The actual grinding is done by holding the knife in one hand and the stone handle in the other.  The guide rod is then inserted in the eye on the guide (as shown in the photo) and the sharpening done by moving the stone against the blade.  Turn over for the other edge.

Diamond stones are pretty efficient and very little pressure or effort is needed.

 

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9 hours ago, JohnfromUK said:

You can either work dry, or use a little water.  Oil not recommended.  The 'stones' can be wiped down with a wet cloth to clean away any residue.

In the above photo, my 'set' has a extra coarse (black stone on left), coarse is blue, medium is red, green (in guide in photo) is fine and pinky white (on right in pouch) is extra fine.  The extra coarse and extra fine were extras I have added.  The extra coarse is good for badly damaged knives, but I rarely use it as I try and do mine little and often.  The extra fine is really too fine for any practical use.  My liking for 'complete sets' over practicality got the better of me on that one!

The blade is clamped in the knife holder.  The chosen stone is fitted in the stone handle which has a long steel wire guide rod which runs in the guide.  The angle is set by adjusting the guides (one for each side) and you can choose the grind angle to suit your knife being worked on.

The actual grinding is done by holding the knife in one hand and the stone handle in the other.  The guide rod is then inserted in the eye on the guide (as shown in the photo) and the sharpening done by moving the stone against the blade.  Turn over for the other edge.

Diamond stones are pretty efficient and very little pressure or effort is needed.

 

thanks John that looks easy enough even for me :good:

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