Maiden22 Posted May 4, 2008 Report Share Posted May 4, 2008 (edited) . Edited November 20, 2008 by Maiden22 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harnser Posted May 4, 2008 Report Share Posted May 4, 2008 If the marks do relate to chokes ,then it looks like half choke in the bottom barrel and full choke in the top barrel . Harnser . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henry d Posted May 4, 2008 Report Share Posted May 4, 2008 Cough....Full & 3/4..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harnser Posted May 4, 2008 Report Share Posted May 4, 2008 Cough....Full & 3/4..... Henry you are absulutly right . Harnser . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maiden22 Posted May 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2008 (edited) . Edited November 20, 2008 by Maiden22 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harnser Posted May 5, 2008 Report Share Posted May 5, 2008 Hi maiden 22 , The browning you are talking about would be conciderd to tightly choked for general clay shooting .you would do better to bu y a multichoke gun as it would be seen to be a bit more versitile for all round clays and for shooting game . The gun is proberly a trap gun were the tighter chokings are an advantage . But there is an old adage that says , the better the shot you are the tighter the chokes you should use . Harnser . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baldrick Posted May 5, 2008 Report Share Posted May 5, 2008 Maiden, I have those markings on a fixed-choke Browning that I use, and as Henry says, it's full and 3/4 choking. I use the gun for clays (mostly sporting, but have shot a few rounds of skeet), pigeon and game, but it doesn't leave much room for errors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobby t Posted May 5, 2008 Report Share Posted May 5, 2008 i think that the chokes are in fact 1/4 and 3/4. if you go to the browning website and download one of their catalouges in PDF they have the choke table and if i remember rightly they are the same as those on mine, which is 1/4 bottom 3/4 top. hope this helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob300w Posted May 5, 2008 Report Share Posted May 5, 2008 (edited) Whilst not intending to become involved in a ten-page debate on chokes, I would say that chokes, like shot sizes, barrel length, crimp V rolled turnover, wadding material, rib width, etc. etc. have more effect in the mind than in the use of a gun. Shooting being 80% in the mind, if you are convinced that you will shoot better with 1/2 than 3/4 choke, you probably will, but not because of the pattern density. A local lad very successfully used skeet/skeet boring for everything from sporting to Olympic trap, also, he shot sporting for his county with the same gun. Maiden22; Consider that, if you did not buy the gun new, a previous owner may have had the chokes altered, I would not take the factory markings as gospel. The older brownings use an asterisk (*) or a set of them to determine the choke of the barrel. (one) * is Full, (Two) ** is Modified, and (three) *** is improved cylinder. This marking is usually located on the side of the barrel along the same line as the mfg's name. BROWNING CHOKES AND THEIR CODES (ON REAR LEFT-SIDE OF BARREL) '*' designates full choke (F). '*-' designates improved modified choke (IM). 3/4 '**' designates modified choke (M). 1/2 '**-' designates improved cylinder choke (IC). 1/4 '**$' designates skeet (SK). '***' designates cylinder bore (CYL). So your barrels are marked as 3/4 and 1/4 as bobby t says. Edited May 5, 2008 by bob300w Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baldrick Posted May 5, 2008 Report Share Posted May 5, 2008 Have just checked both Brownings in my cabinet, and I'm obviously wrong! According to Bob's blurb, one of them is 3/4 and full, but the one that shares the same markings as Maiden's gun is clearly 1/4 and 3/4. Thanks for the clarification, Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maiden22 Posted May 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2008 (edited) . Edited November 20, 2008 by Maiden22 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob300w Posted May 5, 2008 Report Share Posted May 5, 2008 Thanks for the replies. Bob, I think it's time you were officially made Resident Expert :( . It's definitely a game gun, it's a B2G and it's even got a sort of extended toe that I've been told is most suitable for driven birds. It is (sort of) second hand - the previous owner was my dad. He had it new and I'm certain he never had the choke altered. In terms of age, I think it must be 17 or 18 years old. I shoot mostly sporting clays, so I know that it's not exactly ideal for that . Still, it will improve my accuracy eventually, and in the meantime it explains why I've been missing so many . I knew there had to be something, "You were three feet behind that one" my **** . Thanks again for all the replies, Robert It's quite easy to date your gun, look at the serial number under the top lever, my B2G number ends S75, hence 1975 manufacture. You can't blame the gun for your misses, this era of Brownings were the best to come out of Herstal, it will outlast you, that's for sure! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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