longnetter Posted February 5, 2005 Report Share Posted February 5, 2005 (edited) I've just got to tell someone about my latest venture, A RABBIT DROP TRAP! They've been around for years but I've never had the chance to aquire one at a reasonable price before, until about six weeks ago that is. I know that they don't exactly fall under the field sport banner, but they catch bunnies very well and every little trick helps. If you haven't heard of them, they work like this, = a box, usually metal, is sunk into the ground and the lid is fitted flush with the ground. The lid has a tunnel that runs across it and inside the tunnel is a floor that drops away as the rabbit runs through the tunnel, it is then deposited inside the box and the floor swings up again to reset itself for the next bunny. Next to the tunnel is a lockable lid that you open to extract the captured rabbits. The trick is to set the tunnel through a gap in the wire or a well defined run where the main rabbit thoroughfare lies. When you first site the trap you keep the tunnel floor locked with a special removable bar until the dear furry creatures are brave enough to start using the tunnel regularly. Once you're sure that they've lost their fear and are using the run regularly, then you release the locking bar and let the trapping commence, this varies and could take a few days, or a few weeks, every situation is different, but, eventually they start catching and then it's bunnies galore, for a while anyway! The traps need to be checked every day, if you know can't get there on a particular day, don't set them on that occasion, just leave the bar locked across. After a while the catch will become less and less each time as the supply dwindles away, then you simply lock the drop section off for a few days, or weeks until the population starts to build again. In six nights I've caught twenty three rabbits, not bad really, but not a lot compared with the ones used on big estates in Scotland, still, I 'm not complaining believe me! One or two little tips though, keep it away from preying eyes, lady dog walkers, nosey ****, etc, look in the box before plunging your hand in, it could catch other prey too, rats, weasels, hedgehogs and other unfriedlies that could try and take you finger off at the elbow! They are environmentally friendly and soon recoop their initial outlay. Lauderdale Engineering in Scotland sell them for £63.00 inc delivery but as I said mine cost very little due to being secondhand, there are probably a few dozen, {or hundred?} out there going cheap if you could track them down! Hope this gives food for thought to any intrepid bunny busters out there, all my former drop box residents have found new homes in various freezers, pies, etc! cheers for now, longnetter. B) Edited February 5, 2005 by longnetter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cranfield Posted February 5, 2005 Report Share Posted February 5, 2005 As you say, they have been around for very many years. As a lad, I use to help a Local Authority Pest Control officer at weekends, school holidays etc. He had about 50 wooden drop traps, set up over about 500 acres of fenced in Army land. The rabbits had to be controlled, as the area was surrounded by arable crops and orchards. We took hundreds of rabbits a week from that land and it was easier than ferreting. Drop traps certainly catch rats and hedgehogs, as well as rabbits. I haven't seen any , nor heard of anyone using them, for years. Its good to know they are still around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the ferreter Posted February 5, 2005 Report Share Posted February 5, 2005 http://www.rabbittrap.co.uk/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Big Fish Posted February 20, 2005 Report Share Posted February 20, 2005 (edited) Edited March 24, 2006 by The Big Fish Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new to the flock Posted May 2, 2006 Report Share Posted May 2, 2006 Does anyone have any pictures? NTTF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodyfirst Posted May 2, 2006 Report Share Posted May 2, 2006 These things are awesome if you have a big problem. Its essential that you can get to the traps every day though. The can be made relatively easily from wood and weldmesh too (the subterranean parts being weld mesh...like a big cage under ground, and the tunnel and trapdoor being wood), but the galvanised steel ones that you can buy are much better, as wood tends to swell when wet / in the heat etc, so could get stuck. Definitely a worthwhile investment for a serious rabbit catcher!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new to the flock Posted May 2, 2006 Report Share Posted May 2, 2006 The can be made relatively easily from wood and weldmesh too (the subterranean parts being weld mesh Woody Interested in doing a how too with photos in the crafts and DIY section? NTTF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flash Posted May 3, 2006 Report Share Posted May 3, 2006 try this NTTF rabbit drop trap cheers flash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new to the flock Posted May 3, 2006 Report Share Posted May 3, 2006 Thanks Flash, but I was thinking of a how to build set of photos and directions. NTTF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodyfirst Posted May 3, 2006 Report Share Posted May 3, 2006 I would love to if I had the materials to build one, and the time to do it! I'll do my best to explain in words though! Right, so to start with, you need to construct a weld-mesh cage (with 5 sides...no top): It should be about 18" deep, by about the same size long, and approximately 1' wide. The size isn't really important though, I guess it depends on how many rabbits you expect to catch!! 1" square weld-mesh is fairly good for the job. Then make a frame to fit around the top of this cage, using 2"x1" or something similar, so you're left with a rectangle 12" by 18". You should construct some kind of small lip around on side of the frame. Attatch this to the cage. Next you need to build the door. The whole thing can be made from one piece of board. A piece of inch thick ply should be ideal. Cut it so it fits inside the frame, with enough room to move freely, but so there are no big gaps around the edge. Then its the tricky part! You need to attach the board into the frame with some kind of pivot. You could get some kind of 180 degree hinge, but as far as I can work out, it would work just as well with a metal bar inserted through the door (or attatched to the door), and through the frame work too. This should be done off centre, so that there's around 8" on one side of the pivot, and 10" on the other side. Then you need to build a tunnel over the smaller side of the door, big enough for a rabbit to walk through, making sure that it doesnt hinder the movement of the door. You should attatch some kind of lock to the 'non-tunnel' side, so that the trap can be locked. And thats basically it! You then need to dig a pit, the right size to accomodate the mesh cage, so that the door sits flush with the ground. It should be set so that the tunnel runs through a fence, and left locked for a few days or weeks, to allow the rabbits to get used to running through the tunnel, before opening the trap, and letting them drop in! I tried to make some kind of diagram in paint...I'll apologise in advance for the crapness of whats below! There is no scale in these images, its just to give you and idea...top view: side view: Hope thats of some help to anyone who's interested. Please move this thread if its in the wrong forum mods! Give me a PM if you need any more help with it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new to the flock Posted May 9, 2006 Report Share Posted May 9, 2006 Thanks Woody, that does help. However I am still not clear on how the floor drops and repositions. I would believe it works by spring, but pictures would really help. NTTF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodyfirst Posted May 9, 2006 Report Share Posted May 9, 2006 You could use a spring, but it should work simply on counterbalancing. As long as the pivot is not central, one side will be heavier than the other, so it should re-set itself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new to the flock Posted May 9, 2006 Report Share Posted May 9, 2006 Okay I can work with that. Thanks Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saz Posted May 11, 2006 Report Share Posted May 11, 2006 NTTF have a word with will i think he has some pictures he could send you. we used to make em and set up out on farm at college. part of the vermin control section of his course!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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