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ok which is better beretta or browning poll to decide!


utectok
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beretta cd browning  

92 members have voted

  1. 1. which is best?

    • berreta best
      57
    • browning best
      36


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I bought an SP as my first gun 'cause it looked nice :yes: , a year later I px'd it for a 525 sporter as I went into the gun shop and tried one for fit only to realise the Beretta didn't fit too well.

 

The Beretta seemed like it was better made to me, externally at least, was generally higher quality and certainly had better wood too. The Browning seems very light in the stock.

 

One's better than 'tother for different reasons.

Edited by ziplex
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B25s are made in Belgium and are proper Brownings.

The others 425,525 and other models are made in Japan at the same site as Miroku.

If the fore end is not attached to your barrel and is removable it is not a proper Browning.

Edited by mcw65
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i would n`t class anything other than a proper b25 as a browning. the others are made by miroku i think. handmade belgian brownings are fantastic guns and in a different league altogether.some folk may not appreciate me saying that. :yes:

 

I appreciate you saying that, as I know that they certainly are in a different league. The B25s feel totally different to the Miroku-built guns, even if they are directly comparable in terms of weight, dimension and basic specification, e.g. multi-choked 30" barrels.

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both are quality brands. i think it would mostly boil down to which one fits the best and which one you can shoot better.

i have a beretta 687 sp II optima 12ga. 30" and really like it. it fits like a glove and i shoot it well. if a similar browning/miroku fit me as well or better i would probably be shooting one of them. its purely an individual thing.

i do like the way the beretta 600 series of O/U guns are designed. you can pop the ejectors out without tools and thoroughly clean that gun if and when it gets dirty or wet. with a beretta stock wrench the stock comes off with relative ease for occasional cleaning. they have chrome line bores and they are completely rebuildable when neccessary. they are really hard to beat. just my humble opinion.

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Drop the fore-end off.

Separate the barrels from the action.

Put a cloth over the end of the ejector and push it in, hard, just short of all the way home twist it out away from the barrel.

The cloth is there to catch the ejector and the spring which otherwise will end up on the other side of the room.

Literally takes seconds to do, can't imagine a more simple design.

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