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zero in a .222 and my thought on the T8AR


Big Dog
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Well guys after just over eight month of waiting I have the shim on the T8AR fitted to the .222 and I put the first 20 rounds through her last night. Really nice. I roughly set zero at 100 metres. I am going to the range this weekend and want to fine tune better zero at 100 metres. What would you recommend I zero in a?? Nick if you read this I believe you or your dad have a .222, when shooting at 100 m are you dead zero or do you hold over? If so why?

 

 

Someone ask me about the T8AR, I no expert but from what I heard last night it was great. I would say quiter that a .22 I never thought of it. No need for ear protection. I would recommend it. It is a lot smaller and ligher than the standard T8. It is designed for up to 233.

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Nick if you read this I believe you or your dad have a .222, when shooting at 100 m are you dead zero or do you hold over? If so why?

 

 

we have all our guns set up for the best trajectory. As this happens it almost always works out as 1" high at 100 yards. This would then mean the gun is effectively zero'd for about 175yards. and then about 2" low at 200yards.

 

What you are trying to do is get your trajectory to fit inside the kill area of a fox (say 3") for the longest possible time. This means you dont need to worry about hold/under over unless the shot is very far out.

 

 

 

You will see in the two diagrams one is zero'd for 100 yards, the other for 190 yards (this is my .223 load btw) well the red area represents a 3" kill zone, the trajectory zero'd at 190 yards stays slightly more central in this kill zone, but most importantly it stays in it for a longer distance. This means you dont need to hold over/under, and it is less easy to stuff up a shot with poor range estimation.

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Hmmmmm. Can I vaguely disagree? It all depends on the 'normal' range at which you expect to shoot at.

 

I shoot foxes mainly at night with my 0.223, and ON AVERAGE the normal range at which I shoot foxes is 100 yards.

 

So, I have zeroed my rifle at 100 yards on the basis that that will be the normal range, and I therefore aim dead on. At 150 yards I also aim dead on.

 

It it very rarely that I shoot further than this as the land which I shoot over can have livestock/cats/randy farm dogs mooching about etc. I want to be 1000% certain that what I am shooting at is a fox, and so this is why I normally restrict myself to 150 yards or so. ther are enough problems when shooting at night without worrying about holdover - quite often things do happen very fast!

 

Whilst I am pretty sure of my capabilities at 250 yards with the rifle, I do not shoot at this range - very rarely at 200 yards - when I allow some holdover.

 

So, normally I see the fox at an average range of 100 yards, aim dead on without thinking, and that's it.

 

If you intend foxing when it is light (better quarry identification), or if you have land with no 'livestock' to make you anxious, then there is a very good argument to zero at c.200 yards.

 

Don

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yes that is fair point. Most of my foxing is done at about 150- 180 yrds in daylight or dusk. However i would also say that using the zero i use (1" high @ 100 yrds) wont make any practicle difference to your shooting, it would just mean that should you need to take a shot at 180 yards you just point and shoot, just the same as you would @ 100 yards.

 

You have to remember you dont need to be mm perfect with a fox, if your going for boiler room hits you have a pretty big margin for error (not encouraging sloppy shooting here) but 1" high at 100 yards is hardly going to make you miss an over 3" square target.

 

Each to their own though, the above is just the way i would always set a rifle up. Makes alot mroe sense in my mind, but so long as you are happy its not a problem.

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Nick if you read this I believe you or your dad have a .222, when shooting at 100 m are you dead zero or do you hold over? If so why?

 

 

we have all our guns set up for the best trajectory. As this happens it almost always works out as 1" high at 100 yards. This would then mean the gun is effectively zero'd for about 175yards. and then about 2" low at 200yards.

 

What you are trying to do is get your trajectory to fit inside the kill area of a fox (say 3") for the longest possible time. This means you dont need to worry about hold/under over unless the shot is very far out.

 

 

 

You will see in the two diagrams one is zero'd for 100 yards, the other for 190 yards (this is my .223 load btw) well the red area represents a 3" kill zone, the trajectory zero'd at 190 yards stays slightly more central in this kill zone, but most importantly it stays in it for a longer distance. This means you dont need to hold over/under, and it is less easy to stuff up a shot with poor range estimation.

 

Very interesting that nick :good:

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I'm running a load that's .5" high at 100 yds and on the nail at 200 yds :good: (As proved at Bisley this year )and it really is that flat :lol:

 

Now long range Shooting at night (150 yds +) sounds easy listening to all of the above of which I fully agree but your firing point needs to be ROCK SOLID ...........just put the cross air on the target is'nt all you need to do as from experience the bloody thing as a habit of dancing all over the place .A quality lamp combined with quality glass is a must as well . ;)

Good luck BD

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I'm running a load that's .5" high at 100 yds and on the nail at 200 yds :good: (As proved at Bisley this year )and it really is that flat :lol:

 

Now long range Shooting at night (150 yds +) sounds easy listening to all of the above of which I fully agree but your firing point needs to be ROCK SOLID ...........just put the cross air on the target is'nt all you need to do as from experience the bloody thing as a habit of dancing all over the place .A quality lamp combined with quality glass is a must as well . ;)

Good luck BD

 

I'd love to hear about this calibre?

 

 

.223........ you must have heard of it

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And you want to change it to a .243 ive? :D :yp:

 

I would keep the .223. :D:D

 

Frank.

Apologies BD I seemed to have hi jacked your thread :D

 

Heart says keep it and have a 6.5swede :( ...........head says chop it in against a Sako finnlite in .243 :P

 

Not in a position to do either at the moment :good:

 

I meant what bullet and powder/charge weight.

It's a .224 50 grn Hornady V-max ,24.2 grn N133 ,federal brass and cci bench rest primor :) .......Seated to just kiss the lands :D

 

http://www.eskimo.com/~jbm/ballistics/traj/traj.html

 

enter your details to max point blank!!

I use this program as well Paul :/

 

According to it this load should be 1.5" low at 200yds if my memory serves me correct ..........But it is'nt :/

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4217 fps is amazing from a .223, im gonna get one now.

 

 

I detect a smidge of Sarcasm from Fister :good: Truth is that the results we got on the day at Bisley amazed us too. I suppose the results on the day were wrong coz the ballistic programs say it can't be right :yp:

 

Ive's rifle was only shot at 200 yards on the day as i recall. It was zeroed before we went to Bisley and we checked it after Bisley at 100 yards

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Well the moment zeroed at 100mtrs as I only got 1 detail at 100mtrs. 5 round grouped at about 30mm factor loads. The gun has only fired 28 rounds and cleaning in between rounds. So I happy so far. I will work on this. Home loading will tighten the groups but I don't have the knowledge or resoures set aside for that yet.

 

I have to say the mix of Pro-Hunter-Mountain with it all matt black, 20" barrel, T8AR and Leopold 4.5x14x50 scope is really nice and getting positive comments from unlookers. The T8AR is great :good:

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