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aister

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  1. Said it before but most half decent rounds shoot at 100yds, testing at such a range is pretty much a waste of time, i have seen visibly different powder loads inside a case bug hole at 100! now you think you have the best round at 250yds load 30 or so and put them to one side and try other variables with different "best loads" on the right day test them side by side then you will realy know and run them over the chronograph to look for consistancy via standard deviation. Something as simple as just switching primer can make a difference, try different brass prep etc. The trick is only one variable per batch that way you know if it made a difference

     

     

    thanks kent, will give that a go :good:

  2. thanks for all your help and info. i loaded up some rounds last night to try out the collet die and heres how i got on tonight.

     

    i loaded 5 the exact way i have been doing with the full lenghth sizer.

    and i loaded 5 with the collet die, with this 5 the only thing i did was clean the primer pocket.

    and i loaded 5 with the collet die, with this 5 i cleaned the primer pocket, chamfered the case neck inside and out and cleaned the brass with steel wool.

     

    the first 5 was the same as before 3/8" @100.

    second 5 was the same 3/8" @100.

    the last 5 gave me a group i couldnt measure, it was under 1/4".

     

    i loaded 5 more rounds the same as the last lot and got 1 1/8" group at 250 yards.

     

    could chamfering the case neck and cleaning the brass have tightened up the group or has it just been a happening?

     

    hope this all makes sense :blush: , still fairly new to reloading, a few of you are using word and phrases i havent heard before :lol: :lol:

  3. thanks for you replies. the dies i am using at the momment is the lee pacesetter dies and i am getting great results. the 2 reasons i thought to change to neck sizeing was, faster due to no lubing and trimming and also less stress on the brass. i was thinking that the only thing to throw it would be the neck tension and to overcome it would be to try and not put too much preassure on with the collet die and just use the lee factory crimp die that i have always used to give the same neck tension as before :hmm:. and again any thoughts appreciated :good:

  4. i used all types of cheap scopes and like yourself struggled to see at dusk. you defo ain`t going to hit if you can`t see it clearly. bought leupolds and whilst not the most expensive give me good sight pics. buy the best you can afford.you won`t regret it

     

     

    i will second that :thumbs: :stupid:

  5. i agree with kent, on a 22lr there is no need for gimics, go for a fixed power with good glass. i bought a second hand leupold 6x42 off the bay not long ago and put it on the 22 and it wont be coming off again, its great, nothing to fiddle with, nothing to think about, just get the target in the cross hairs and pull the trigger, simples.

  6. just spent some money on some new or new to me toys for the .223. a leupold vx-111 6.5-20x40 with target turrets, a set of rcbs scales from wiseman (thanks again), much better than the lee safety scales i had been using. and also a target master powder trickler, which is a brilliant piece of kit. the target master is great, it is so accurate when coupled up to the new scales, well chuffed. after loading up 100 rounds and shooting a few targets i went out to a place that was heaving with rabbits and set up with the sun setting behind me and waited. within an hour and a half i had 33 rabbits, the bulk of them being around the 200 yard mark and there was a warren at 350 that i nailed a few at but the highlight of the night was 2 rabbits sitting side by side at 425 yards that i shot after 38 clicks up on the leupold. i am well impressed with the target master, i would recomend it to anyone that reloads. my wife didnt seem to share the same enthusiasm as me when i came back :no: so i thought i would share it with you lot :good::lol: :lol:

  7. Why a 410 pistol and not a .22 humane bolt gun?

     

     

    he has two humane bolt guns. the problem he is having is with big pigs and sometimes heavy bulls, the bolt sticks in the skull bone and if the beast drops sidewards instead of straight down it sometimes takes the gun out of his hand. if the beast is dead its ok (not ideal though), but if something were to go wrong and it was still alive then things can get tricky or dangerous and you are left with no gun. as we all know, when it comes to killing things nothing is 100% foolproof.

  8. a friend of mine who is a slaughter man to trade was asking me the other day about buying a 410 pistol. does anyone on here have one? i was looking at the taurus revolver. what licence would it go on? would it have to be restricted? any info on this will be appreciated, thanks :good:

  9. i have quite a few good memories but there are a few faux pas that stick out too :lol:. i remember once, when my enthusiasm was probably at its peak, i had spied 5 or 6 mallard sitting on a bit of flood water out in the open with no chance of an ambush and after watching them for an age i saw there was a small ditch that could lead me right to them only if i could make it to the ditch without raising suspicion, the only snag being that the ditch was almost full of water. after weighing up the pros and cons for about one second i set off to the ditch and got there without the ducks seeing me and lay down in the freezing cold water, i lay for a minute to catch my breath and to check on the ducks. i looked down the ditch to where i had to go, about 200 yards ahead there was a hydro pole, if i got to there un detected i was on for a bang. it was tough going trying to keep my head and gun out of the water and at the same time keep below the edge of the ditch. after some time i had made it to the hydro pole and had not been aware of the duck getting up so i composed myself and made ready for the right and left of mallard i had been thinking about. 1, 2 , 3, up i get, up go the mallard, BANG BANG, miss miss, noooooooooooo. i had missed a lot of duck before this but this was a bad one, the last thing i remember was looking down in dejection and watching the water running out of the pie holes in the bottom of the pockets of my wax jacket and wondering if i was wise and hopeing that no-one was looking. :lol: :lol: :lol:

  10. Up until now I have been using ex-army camo smock and trousers, which I have to say that I have been quite happy with. However, they are starting to get a bit thin and tight - I'm sure that it is a case of they have shrunk rather than me getting fat! lol

    All joking aside, the time has come to replace them. What I am looking for is something like a 2 piece camo suit (Ideally with a hood as an added "luxury for when it rains" but that is not a real "must have" I could live without it) that I can wear while stalking/culling and general shooting (Pigeon and crow decoying and bunny bashing) I do not want anything that is noisy or "crackles" when I move and I would prefer it to be at least shower proof if not fully water proof.

    My budget would be about £70-80(ish), so what would you guys suggest and why would you opt for that particular choice rather than any other please?

     

     

    i have the prologic bib and braces and the jacket with the fleece liner (which can be worn on its own) and find very breathable and warm, only used the fleece liner a couple of times when it was really cold and it was great. i will be getting the same again if anything happens to mine. its probably a bit over your budget but keep an eye on the bay, its where mine came from. :good:

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