aister

midway uk!

i bought a 3.5" remington 870 and was very disapointed with the finish on it. i bought it in the summer and shot a few rabbits before the season in september and the fore end was worn through to the wood and starting to get dis coloured. i think the checkering on the rib on the barrel had been done with a hoe. my dealers words when we opened the box and looked at it were "dear god". compaired to my winchester 120, which had smooth action even though it had spent most of its life on a salmon boat, the action was gritty and clunky from new. probably a strong gun that would last but compaired with the 700 bdl i have, finish wise(which wasn't that much more expensive), i was very disapointed. again its probably a very strong reliable gun but it really should have been finished better. infact my single baikal for £114 was finished better than the remington. i hated the gun and sold it before the season started. i dont know maybe i am looking for the wrong things in a gun.

its a remington 700 bdl! my friend has a sako in 30-06 and we tried the dummy round that was made to fit my gun in his gun and it couldn't even nearly chamber and when he tried to take it out it wouldn't come out, we had to take the bolt out so it could clear the opening in the reciever. bit of a scutter!!!!!!!!!!

whats the minnimum amount of bullet you would want in the neck of the case?

when i started reloading for my .223 i got the cartridge oal by making a dummy round and trying it in the gun and adjusting the seating die till it was 0.010" off the lands which worked fine as it was only a couple off thou off what it should be (2.200"). when i did this yesterday to find out the oal for my 30-06 here is what i found, with a 150gr winchester pp, the cartridge oal that could chamber in my gun was 3.418" (meant to be 3.340") when the bullet was sitting in at that length the cannelure was 0.210" away from the neck and the bullet was only in the neck by a lucky 4mm. with a 178 a-max the oal that could chamber in my gun was 3.481" again meant to be 3.340". it seems a hell of a jump to the lands when seated at the correct oal. can anyone shed any light on this. all the measurement were taken from the case head to the tip of the bullet with calipers as i dont have the proper thing for measuring from the ogive! hope this all makes sense.

what i find using solids is that unless you hit the rabbit in the head there is a good chance the hit rabbit will run before he drops, i have seen them run 3 or 4 hundred yards. when trying to collect tails its a real pain in the backside!!!!!!!!

with my 30-06, i always set it up and practice with it firing one round at a time through a cold barrel because 99.9% of the time when deer stalking you only ever need one shot and it is always shot from a cold barrel. on the other hand i set up my .223 with 5 shot strings after firing one cheap factory bullet in to the back stop so the barrel is warm because when shooting rabbits the barrel will be hot.

i am very new to reloading, i bought a Lee Breech Lock Challenger Reloading Kit from sportsman gun center for my .223 a-bolt. after a few weeks of playing round i am now getting 1/2" 5 shot groups at 100 yards which i am happy with. it is not as complicated as i thought it would be. i figured out that my reloads will be about the same price as ppu 55gr soft points which i pay £10 for, but the reloads is far more accurate. i had my doubts about the lee perfect powder measure but it seems to be pretty good, (it was loads out of this powder measure that i got the 1/2" groups with) the only things i have bought to add to the kit is a Lyman Case Lube Kit and a pair of Lee Breech Lock Quick Change Bushings, (i thought it was odd the kit didn't come with 3 of them). i am going to order a set of 30-06 dies and try reloading for my remy 700 now that i feel i have a good load for the .223. hope this info is of some use!

i was looking for some advice/thoughts on castrating my 4 year old lab, is it likely to ruin him? he is a very good dog but so stubborn and overly. i am on the verge of looking for another dog and getting rid of him but cant bear the thought of it.

thanks very much for that andy, i will have a look at that later.

can i have powder sent through the post?

i want three loads, 32g no4, 36g no4 and 50g bb,s all for wildfowling. i am very limited to components as i live in shetland and there is only one dealer that has any components and he doesn't have much. the recipes i am looking at are from the hodgdon data manual and i was thinking about hodgdon longshot or hs-6 for powder and whatever primers he has i think he will have cci 209m and win 209. the only place i can find the wads that are in the recipes is midway usa. this is all very new to me and i am just getting started any info or help i can get will be gratefully recieved.

thanks for that, in the same book i have it has recipes for remington sts or nitro 27 and gun club plastic shells, are those parallel tubes and can i use the shells i said about before? are there types and makes that will be better over others i.e express over clever?

can any of the spent shells at the local clay pigeon ground be used in reloading recipes inplace of winchester aa hulls. i can get express, gamebore, clever and eley?

what about this from midway uk, GoldenRod Dehumidifier 18" Long (Protects 200 Cubic Feet) with Detachable Plug 110v Gold

have a look at midway uk for Remington Model 365 Silica Gel Desiccant Dehumidifier 400 Gram (Protects 30 Cubic Feet) there are other dehumidifiers on ebay, hope this helps.

i am going to buy a new rifle in .223 shortly and had sort of set my mind on either a browning x-bolt stainless stalker or then a sako 85 hunter. i would like the most accurate rifle i can afford but the sako is just so expensive and i wonder if it is worth the extra dosh. does anyone have any thoughts on the matter?

just had a look at diverdaves website and i think i will be sending down my waders asap because just before i ripped them on barbed wire i realised the seam was leaking just a tiny bit around the crotch as well, thanks for your help everyone i was thinking i was going to have to lash out for new waders after only having these for 5 months.

Submerge Aqua Repair, found this on simply scuba, it has good reviews, should do the trick. thanks for all suggestions.

do you repair both sides or just the outside

i have always used a belt when out wild fowling because it can be worn under your jacket thus saving the carts from getting wet and muddy another reason is i some times have 2 defferent types of carts one for duck and hevier ones for geese. i always have the hevier ones on my right hand side and the light ones on the left so in the half light i know exactly whats where. it also keeps your pockets free for other stuff, torches, calls etc

i have a pair of prologic neoprene waders which i am delighted with but ripped small hole in them yesterday when we were out fishing sea trout. does anyone have any suggestions on how best to patch them ( i have lost the piece of material that came with them)?

very enthusiastic and not put off with anything. i wouldn't say he was soft natured but i wouldn't he was hard either. he doesn't like being told off and is very biddable but he doesn't tuck tail and run if you raise your voice if you know what i mean. he does get very exited say for example if two of us is shooting geese together and we drop 4 or 5 i usually pick them all up bar 1 and let him fetch it otherwise he tends to run in circles not sure which one to pick up first, i am hopeing that will steady with age as he is still young for his age.

i tried that, he was doing fine till one broke and he ate it, now he thinks they are for eating!!! he doesn't see it as training like when we are useing dummies.