killer rabbit (r1000)

does anyone know where i can get some 'duck-oil'? (the really thin red stuff)

.....speaking of novelty pellets... my local supply has (for some reason?) got themselves a pack of .22 pointed GOLD-PLATED pellets! don't ask me why, i think they just got them for the sheer love as they aren't for sale

got the same one myself in .177, shortened the barrell & had a thread cut onto the end for a silencer . shoots like a dream, accurate for 35 yards, but is affected by environmental temperature. this doesn't pose a problem though, just the power goes down a little, also can be a little expensive on airsource bottles. try to cut your costs by buying in bulk & find a good quality pellet, you shouldn't have a problem...

try dry-firing a few times (perfectly safe for pcp's), i had a similar problem with one of my rifles & it seemed to work, must have been some debris caught in the valve (happens to everyone occasionally)

write what you have to, to who you have to, & best of luck m8 (why, when the police send officers out to these occurrences, can't they at least send someone who's at least slightly educated in the subject at hand?)

i got 2 of the same set from aldi, same price & can't complain. not sure about the compass as the movement is a little stiff but they do work. binoculars aren't bad either, they do the job at a very fair price. how's the multi-tool? not used mine yet, don't know how long these things will last but i'm sure we'll find out... so far, so good

you read the title & yes, i do mean any condition. pref. 17-shot, but all considered for the right price. please pm me.....

don't worry, it's not essential to have your barrel threaded, there are a number of adaptors available including a universal 'parker-hale' adaptor. i had my barrels threaded because i very much like these particular silencers, & because it only cost me £10 to have each barrel altered

i need them also, let us know when you find out...

now, now

just reading through this post & decided it's getting a little silly, but i do have a comment... as far as i'm concerned, age doesn't come into it (except the legal shooting age), i would insist that every precaution be taken to prevent any projectile to exceed the boundary of the shooters land/permission (this would include ricochets). it's unlikely that a ricochet would cause any damage to property at range (30 yards?), but at the same range could hurt a person even if no wound is sustained (you'd be surprised at how many pellets come back for the eyes if they bounce off the wrong thing!), the only ricochets that are likely to damage property are from projectiles fired from fac-rated weapons. if you had permissions on neighbouring lands then yes, it would usually be ok to allow pellets to exceed your current boundary (lots of people already do this), otherwise i would reccommend against it as you could find yourself in a lot of trouble & hoping you are fully converse with every loophole in the law ...case closed...

had a meteor myself once (about 20 years ago), my dad got rid of it for me when he found out i had it as for power, mine may have been fitted with a 'gatespring' which used to be a favourite for upping the power (never done by a decent gunsmith ), may even have been fitted with a proper spring but i'd be a little surprised if one went much over 10fp without shaking itself apart

.....thinking of having one especially made for mine, if you know a good engineer then you're well in there

try bsa interceptor, i highly rate them to anyone for any gun as they are very good quality, consistent & very well priced (my local supplier finally got .177 in last week, aaahhhh bliss )

:yp: :o me included

be careful using 3-in-1 oils & suchlike, some of them will destroy any rubber seals very quickly (including wd40). best to use a good quality oil such as napier or logun, other good ones are available at very reasonable prices. always good to wipe the entire gun with an oily rag, especially after use in bad weather (leaving a thin oily coating helps to prevent water damage/rust ), use a shoelace with a little oil for inside the barrel (tie some thinner string to one end to make it easier to pull through, fold lace if neccessary). another way to clean the bore is to use cigarrette filters (minus the paper coat), add a drop of oil to these & fire away! (you may want to remove your silencer before you do this one ). don't worry too much about how much it cost you, ok, a more expensive one adds incentive, but if you look after even a cheap weapon it could last you years

wadda ya mean "if you can afford it"? mine only cost £35, i rate them so much i've had barrels threaded for them!

nope, just how good the barrel was. i used to have access to a 150 yard range where i was shooting bottle tops at about halfway (i think is was set to 11fp)

had the same gun once, still got the bits (don't worry, it doesn't happen often), here's my story... bought the rifle in .177, was very happy as it gave me about 50 shots per fill & was very accurate to about 80 yards! until... it started leaking . found out it was leaking from the front seal within the air cylinder which just happens to be the only one i can't get to for replacement :( . anyway, i still have all the bits which i can use to have another gun built from, which is good as the barrell is faultless, i may even have another go at gaining access to the elusive seal. why do these things happen when the warranty runs out? here's a few tips: DON'T overfill, 180 bar will be fine, this should give you around 40-50 decent shots DON'T use pellets that are too tight as you will eventually damage your barrell DO check your seals occasionally, particularly around the filling valve (or better still, have your local gunsmith do it for you) you could also try lubricating your pellets as this will help to look after your barrell DON'T do any maintainance if you're unsure, ask a professional no' you can't get extra air cylinders for this particular rifle, but you could try using a small diving tank as a buddy-bottle, just be carefull as the filling probe will be held in by nothing but air pressure hope this helps...

Yuk, i'm getting scared now you should be, rats can carry some very nasty stuff so you need to deal with them carefully. you will need an incinerator (or access to one) in any case as you can't just drop them in your dustbin . you could use an extended `pick-up stick` (like the ones used by the elderly, disabled or street cleaners) so you don't have to get too close to them. you will need to make sure they're dead, a shot (or a spike) to the head would do this nicely, not to the body as they can still find some strength to attack if they want to (survival instinct). hope this helps

the ideal blade should be razor-sharp (or close to) to be effective - & safe! what grinder are you using? (how fine?)

chef's steel, & IT TAKES PRACTICE!!!

it's not the drink that's affecting it!!! B) :yp:

i'd like to see them before i buy them, so i'm waiting for my local stores to get them in

got a few double-bladed rolson knives - 2 1/2" plain blade (double-bevelled), 2 1/2" serrated blade (single-bevel), both blades are bloody sharp (excuse the pun) & keep well. not bad for a tenner each (including a carrabiner-style analogue watch / light, very nice one too ) i also own a very good set of german kitchen knives - good heavy solid construction & also keep the edges very well