Finnclassic

Sorry, tempted but got one too, and No4 and just picked up a sideplate. Wouldnt part with it, think you are making a mistake you will regret as that gun owes you nothing and will keep performing.

There also the chance that you are in the same general location as someone who has been banned and the first part of you IP address is the same. That happened to Lid on ShootingTalk. We reckoned it was a well known troll who had recently been banned that had caused the problem as Lid is well known to most in there.

there aint that much bang with these..... Especially with Eley subsonic 3" #6 (18g)

I found this info on www.4-10.co.uk that may be of interest - "15 Aug 2005 UK I just came across your site whilst looking for info on the Winchester 9410 I have just bought. I wondered if you are aware of any cartridge preference for this gun that it will cycle cleanly ? I used it for the first time today with some RIO 410 (11g/#6 shot) cartridges & whilst it worked fine when it reloaded, I had a lot of jams & failed lifts. On checking this when I got home, it seems that the lift gate is to tight for these shells. The rolled nose area is releaved, as is the rim area where it is channeled to. But the centre area is to tight & it takes excessive force to lift the shell through this tight spot to the reloading position ! Thus the only conclusion I can draw, is that these shells are too wide for the action ! This is reinforced by the number of hard extractions I got as well. Any recommendations as to sheels this gun cycles well would be much appreciated. Many Thanks Chris W. 30 Aug 2005 UK The 9410 was solved as follows;- The basic problem was that the shells according to the image & data on your site should have an external diameter of 11.3mm, where as the RIO cartridges I was using have an OD of 11.8mm. The 9410, has two shell holder cheek plates internally that are screwed to the outer frame from the out side, these had an internal gap of 11.5mm & the RIO's were being squeezed on the lift & left in an oval shape ! I removed these cheek plates & took some material off the back side where it abutts the frame, thus hiding the mod & making it reversable if it hadn't worked. I took approx .25mm off each cheek plate & that improved the feed lifting no end, but it was still tight due to a feed bump on the right cheek piece. I took another .1mm off each piece & this improved the situation even more. I didn't want to take more off, as I was only experimenting with one shell type & others could be slimmer, but I really needed to lose more metal to get a slick feed. I had correspondence with Matthew Birch after finding his site & he informed me that Winchester had added a large magnet to the back of the lift plate that holds the steel shotshell heads in place on the lift plate when they leave the magazine tube. This gave me the option of removing more metal from the cheek pieces. I decided that the feed bump was not really required because the shell has already started to enter the chamber before the lift ramp gets lowered as the action closes, so I got vicious with a file & removed the feed bump all together. The action works a treat now & I've tried a few shells & they all feed flawlessly. Now on to the extraction issue. Having fixed the feed issue, I ran in to an extraction issue where the fired shell would half extract before seperating from the extractor claw & bolt face, but not all the time. I looked at the RIO shells & at some Fiochi & Eley ones which did not seem to suffer the same problem. The conclusion I have drawn is very simple. If you look closely at the rim head on the shells you use, you will see that some (Eley) have a very well defined rim on the side nearest the plastic, but others (Fiochi) have a less well defined rim & the RIO's have a very poorly defined rim. This is an average conclusion, some Eley are not great, but not as bad as the Fiochi or RIO's. By defined I mean look side ways on to the shell so that with the rim at the top, the case forms the vertical of a T with the top of the T being the rim. Now look closely at the lower part of the rim & on ones that fail to extract, you will find that instead of the 90 degree angle between the brass/steel body & the rim, its more like 45 degrees or some angle in between. Thus the extractor claw has no firm purchase & when you try to extract the case, it pulls so far out until the sloppy head rim angle causes the extractor, claw to lose its grip & the extraction fails. Some cartridges also have been formed off center, so the rim is fine for most of its circumference, but some parts have practically no rim for the claw to grip ! These rims work fine in O/U or single barrels that have large circumference extractors, but not very well on any type of bolt action that has a small extractor originally designed to pull exactly machined brass cartridge heads, not cheap steel pressed shotshell heads ! I think you will find that your Mossberg is suffering from the same problem. The longer the shell case the more likely the claws grip is to fail due to the leverage angles & the rounded edge to shotshell rims, verses the nice square edges of machined brass cartridges which keep them in the head recess on the bolt until they hit the ejector ! Check it out & let me know what you think.I'm going to stick with Eley & look at reloading brass cartridges. The .444 Marlin looks like the right thing for my 2.5" requirements. Please feel free to use this info on your site. Regards Chris W."

Of all the airguns we have ever had the webley pcp was the absolute worst. Inconsistant, leaking, innaccurate rubbish. Please try a few first, BSA, Theoben, Weirauch etc, but dont go with trying one brand only. Gas ram guns are hard to beat.

Yes it does. Most useful when the barrels are hot too! It has all the usual AYA writing in the standard places. I jus noticed on their website - http://www.aya-fineguns.com/ingles/modelos/paralelas.htm that barrels can be supplied to special order for No4's.

Yep, I got the 10x50 Bressers and a set of 8x25 compacts last year. Really bright for such cheapies and much better than more expensive Argos binos. I did get a set of variables a few months ago which went back as they didnt focus securely, the slide for zoom was loose. Last year I got a set of fully lined extreme weather waterproofs with bib'n'brace trousers, I have had these up in the mountains in the snow and they do the biz great. How much were they? £20. Part of the r4eason manufacturing is having such a hard time in the UK as we cant compete with folks working for 5p/hour!

Do not buy a budget air rifle, they are so bad I dont know how our laws allow them to be imported! As above all internals can be easily bought and renewed from John Knibbs international or one of the others, I think Chambers supply parts for these too. The Meteor was a 10ft/lb gun and fine for general use. Whilst you are waiting for the bits to arrive give the bore a good clean, remove the piston and check the condition of the compression chamber. Watch the pins on the trigger group dont fall out whilst you are working on it - you should wrap a bit of sticky tape around the group to prevent that. Good luck.

Right, lets clear this up. Firstly Happy New Year all. Secondly I have an old No4 3" chambers, 30" extra full and extra full sitting in my cabinet, it cost me £130. I have an AYA Yeoman 2 3/4" chambers 26" 1/4 and 1/2 it cost me £45 and all it needed was reblueing. I am not knowingly lying, I am not imagining anything (until I have finished this bottle anyway) they are real and they are there. However, I have looked through a few sites and I see the No4 is indeed only listed as 2 3/4 chamber and 28" barrels, So what have I got? I honestly bought it as a No4 years ago, it is an AYA, could it be a No3, well Ive been wrong before. Its such a ******* being proved wrong though aint it? My apologies if I have been misleading, I dont take a word back on the quality of AYA's though, 10/10 This where I found out I was wrong (sob sob); http://www.trulockandharris.com/reviews/aya_no_4.htm

I have a No4 and a Yeoman. The No4 is 3" Mag and I have double discharged 53g loads intentionally on many occasions. These guns handle about anything. I have never once had any breakage. You will have no problems with a 42g load. The one thing I would say is that I prefer the rib on the Yeoman to the concave one on the No4. Good luck but dont pay too much. You will get a good No4 in 12 for £150ish so watch the sales patter and beat them down with cash in hand. If you go after smaller bore No4's the price leaps up.

I put mine out 25 paces from the woodline I am hiding in and place a dozen deeks in no particular pattern around the magnet making sure some are up on the pegs and some are head down. Wipe any rain off when picking up at intervals. Birds flying wide spot them from a good distance and a good 60-70% of birds coming from behind over the trees will drop in fast. If there are any scemies coming in leave them as they draw the cushies too.

What on earth are you selling it for?

This sounds like a good way to get rid of my forgeries...

If you want a long distance hitter then turn to the Eley FITASC 6.5 clay cartridge. I use them on rabbits and they are devastating out to 50 yards. 1600ft/sec they reckon. The Hull Fitasc is just as fast but I havent tried them for game. I know they arent approved of as they hard shot, but I can assure you first hand they work.

I reckon I am using 6000 a year on clays and game, but my mate lives in the bloomin field and goes through 500/week. Incredible but totally true, and thats not including his rifle cartridges at night! I went out with him a while back with two magnets and loads of deeks and I used 350 shells in one 6 hour sitting. He has 35 farms he covers, lucky bbbbbbbbbbb! PS, yes he is loaded in more ways than one. He uses Eley Trainers which I hate.

How about "Lord", he looks quite a nice chap. "Lord Jack"

I had this problem with my Browning semi auto. Obviously oil it first as the others have said. Remove the barrel and hold it between your legs using the connection lug to prevent it rotating. Put the choke key in (hold it in position with the forefinger of your spare hand) and tap it repetitively using a light but solid steel bar (the handle of a 3/8 socket bar is about right). You shouldnt be hitting it hard enough to damage the choke lugs. Its is the repeated short sharp impacts that eventually break it away. Ive done it to a few guns now and it works for me. It took over an hour with one but it did work!

MRY is correct. I have spent many hours scraping off varnish. I thought I would butt in with a little tip though. Take an old pane of glass and smash it in a box, the straightish edged pieces then make excellent sharp scapers (using a rag to hold them). I used glass when restoring old wooden ladders for museum displays, it takes a while to do a 10.5 extension ladder!

Please take some (bagged) to your local DEFRA Animal Health Office - phone them first and ask to speak to the Senior Animal Health Officer (SAHO). He/she will advise you properly. If you find die offs involving 10 or more dead birds of the same species or from different species in the same place you should contact the Defra Helpline 08459 33 55 77 and choose the Avian Influenza option which will be open from 9am - 5pm, Monday - Friday. If any of you notice numbers of dead birds with no obvious reason, then it is always adviseable to get in touch with the Animal Health Office.

No, it sounds like Coccidiosis. Phone you vets surgery for advice as animals can catch this as well as birds. I used to get this amongst my racers and it wreaks havoc. Primary signs were always loss of breasmeat to the point where hardly anything could be felt and the bird looks generally dull and sick (or in your case dead). http://www.msstate.edu/dept/poultry/disproto.htm With the bird flu in the background your LVI (local vet) may advise you to contact DEFRA or want to see the bird himself of you still have it. Es[ecially if you find more.

You said it all when you said brand new. Take the barrel off, hold the stock up/action down and spray the firing pin cavity out with WD40 using the little red pipe that comes with the tin. If you have an airline that may work. There is probably some manufacturing crud stuck in there. If that doesnt work take the stock off and spray it out from the inside remembering afterwards to re oil it with high quality machine oil. Of course you could always take it back under warranty and get them to do it. I think that should do it unless there is a real manufacturing defect which would be unusual with one of these.

Playing with bore diameters has been quite fruitful for some manufacturers, especially in the development of back bored barrels. Wads are quite forgiving of relatively minor adjustments due to the cup seal over powder wad flexing. There are bores out to 18.8mm (given that 12 should be 18.4mm) but not a full 10 gauge boring. Mossys have been around for a while so I would assume they have tested it thoroughly but a 1.2mm increase? The name of the game is reducing friction in the bore to get optimum velocity and patterning - I suppose the proof of the pudding is in the eating. http://www.unc.edu/~rowlett/units/scales/shotguns.html http://www.ballisticproducts.com/bpi/artic...1/GA1235K1.html

Check out ebay, your price is not a steal - http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1998-SAAB-9-5-SE-AUT...1QQcmdZViewItem This is just one, much lower mileage, I can pick these up at auction for £300-£600 roughly, dependant on condition and whose in the ring. No offence mate, the price has dropped right out of secondhand motors, especially bigger engined ones.

I use Hull Sovereign extended range fibre, which are outstanding. I use size 8 for everything at that velocity they break even the longest clays. They are about £148/1000 but hey, are we shooting for economy or fun?

Lincoln do that graham, as you can buy the same gun with two sets of barrels. It does work well with smaller gauges as 410 are often made too small in the assumption that a junior will be using them. The rizzini 410 is nicely proportioned. The lincoln write up is here http://www.4-10.freeuk.com/lincoln.pdf