1066
-
Posts
742 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
PW Shop
Posts posted by 1066
-
-
Well done HW682 - But my God, what some people do for fun, I'd rather poke a pencil in my eye than work that out.
-
Every thing Reece is saying here says it's a scope problem, not a rifle/shooter/pellet problem - All the shots are going a little high and right no matter what he does with the sights or who shoots it, he gets the same results. Other things may cause open groups, for example poor or unsuitable pellets, misaligned moderator or even a loose barrel but when the sights are cranked across the "group" should move - If not, either the scope has run out adjustment for some reason or the internals of the scope have come adrift - This is quite unusual with even low-end modern scopes.
There are several reasons why the scope may have run out of adjustment, for example the barrel may not be aligned with the receiver or the dovetail not cut true but most probable cause is the mounts - I think this problem could easily be sorted without spending any money.
What you really need to be working on is getting those groups tight - It doesn't really matter if they are on target until you get to hunting with it. Getting all the shots in the same hole is good shooting - placing that hole in the centre of a target is a minor problem.
I've been trying to zero an air rifle. I aim at the target, and all pellets go quite far right of the target (I'd guess between 5 and 8 cm right), and up a bit as well.
I've adjusted the sights, but the pellets keep hitting in roughly the same place, right and up. I keep adjusting the sights, the pellets hit in the same area all the time.
I'm going to keep practicing to find out what's causing this, but in the meantime, does anyone here have any ideas?
I've had someone else do it and they get the same results, so I wouldn't think my shooting is the problem.
-
I find the tables only give a rough guide when using the .22LR - They seem to work well enough with airguns and also my centrefire rifles but not reliable on the .22. I think the only way to do it is, once you have the rifle/scope/ammo combination sorted, is to shoot a series of range cards, careful groups of 5 shots at measured ranges. When you have the results, measure and average each group and make up a table.
Stick with the same ammo and really get to know how the set up shoots - practice, practice, practice!
My current batch of Eley subs is going about 1035 (1065 on the box) through my rifle - If you just input what the makers says you may find you're 3-4" out at 100 yds.
-
Hi Reece - Sounds like a scope problem to me. What you need to do is use some sort of steady or rest for the rifle - Clamping it in a workmate would do. When you have the rifle fixed look thorough the scope and wind the turrets - right the way in then out and do the same for the elevation - You should see the image move all the time you are adjusting the scope, when the image stops moving you are at the end of your scopes adjustment, if this is not enough then you will need to play around with the mounts.
The mounts can be shimmed with something like a strip of card from a cornflake packet. Shimming up the back of the scope will give you more elevation. You may try changing you mounts round 180 degrees and also swap front to back. - Once you get knack it falls into place.
Have a quick look at this video - It's my .22 rifle but you might find it useful.
-
The 10lb can of Varget I bought from Norman Clark last year for the knock-down price of £210 looks better and better. Well over 2,000 rounds in my 6br. (Smug bast***d emoticon goes here)
-
If I'm weighing powder then it's beam scales every time - I'm happy to use the digitals for bullets and cases though. A good reliable beam scale will never let you down and will last a life time. My beam scales will indicate a single kernel of Varget powder and there are just about 5 kernels of Varget to 1/10 grain.
This is what five kernels of Varget look like on my scales:
and in use;
-
Google the new stuff from Tim Stewart (Current F/TR European champion) it is called C2R - it works even on barrels cleaned by 009 and the other stuff - it still drags out copper and carbon like you would not believe.
Mike
I'll second that - C2R is a new generation of barrel cleaner. I used it on what I thought was a clean barrel and was amazed at the amount of copper and crud if shifted.
-
-
You really need to shoot a series through a chrony to give you a better idea, depends also on length of barrel etc. I recently ran some Eley subs through the chrony and they were no where near the stated figure. Eley say 1065ft, Chrony (and field tests) tests showed 1020ft. It's not really a problem for me, they are very accurate and consistent in my rifle and to be honest a rabbit at 70yds doesn't really know if he's having his ears cleaned out with a bullet at 70 or 80ftlbs.
-
I have a Voere semi auto (I also have a very accurate bolt .22 rifle too) I nearly always take the Voere for rabbits. It's accurate, reliable, not too heavy and given sterling service for about 40 years.
-
Yes I think Belgium - I have one the same at the moment except for the skeleton stock. Liege proof marks I guess. Handy little shotgun as if folds and fits in the shooting bag.
-
Ahh! The Diana No 2. My first air gun - bought second hand for 10/- in 1958 and I still have it now. It lived on a diet of "cat slugs" bought in little white boxes from the local garage of 100 for 6d. The slugs were non waisted and tended to drop right through the smothbore barrel. The answer was to run the skirt of the slug round the foresight to put a slight flare on the skirt. When we were short of cash you could often find Elder berries that would fit.
-
That's fair enough,but I don't think we're discussing the requirement of bench-rest accuracy here;the OP mentioned 'hunting',and for this my shortened CZ will print a 5 shot pattern which can be covered by a 20p piece at 50 metres.More than good enough for hunting;the rabbits certainly haven't noticed any difference.
Incidently,mate had his Finnfire chopped early last year.His Finnfire and my CZ are now both cracking bits of kit for shooting from the confines of a Landie window.
I know where you're coming from, it's just something to be aware of, it's a one way ticket. It would be a real ****** to cut down an accurate rifle only to find it sprays them all over the place just because it's the latest fashion. I have a "semi-stubby" myself as a long range rabbit sniper. It started life as a Russian .22 target rifle before I took the hacksaw to it.
-
If you have a mind to do some research on this (rather than "my mate says") Here's some information that you might find interesting.
http://www.ballisticsbytheinch.com/22.html
http://closefocusresearch.com/22-long-rifle
http://varmintal.com/a22lr.htm
For what it's worth, I've never seen a .22 benchrest rifle with a short barrel. If there was a single mm of accuracy advantage with a short barrel then they would use it. If a short barrel was only just as good they would use it and use the saved weight elswhere. Another consideration is that some better quality barrel manufacturers produce choked barrels for improved accuracy - Chopping 10 inches off that beautiful old Anni or Finnfire might not give the results that you were hoping for.
-
The bit in the middle is proofing.....
I'm not sure you need to have it proofed if you're not offering it for sale ie. making it for your own use.
I think the 1868 proof act states - selling or exchanging, or attempting to sell or exchange, a Small Arm the Barrel or Barrels of which are not duly proved or marked as proved.
I really couldn't see a problem with getting a slot for something like this and getting it put on your ticket - again no proof necessary unless selling it?
http://www.southernmuzzleloading.com/p/kentucky-pistol-project.html
And if you could get that on your ticket then why not make one from scratch - any half decent hobby machinist with a home workshop could easily make a really nice piece - and very satisfying too.
-
You would need a CNC mill and engineering experience surely? Shame really cos 10 years ago I would have machined it for you if you had drawings.
They seemd to manage quite well without CNC machinery two hundred years ago.
I knocked this one up with only a file and a post drill about 40 years ago.
-
That's a nice rifle!
What if you wanted to start completely from scratch? Reason I ask is, I've been looking to get another .410 pistol with no success and have been looking into the possibility of making a simple single shot derringer style pistol.
Just wondered how I would stand with getting such a thing put on my ticket?
I think you may have a problem with that - You might have got away with it in the pistol shooting days, and you may still get away with it now if you were to make a muzzle loading BP type pistol - I know you can get kits to make BP pistols, both flint and percussion - requires a bit of investigation I guess.
-
I built a rifle out of bits two or three years ago. I got the slots put on my ticket for an action and a seperate barrel. I bought a Savage F12 target action from NW customs guns and did a personal import direct from Shilens for a select grade match barrel in 6mmbr. I bought a Sav-2 trigger direct from Rifle basix in the US and a Richards Microfit stock direct from Richards and a Ken Farrell 20moa sight rail again direct.
Being a Savage build you can fit the barrel with no machining necessary.
Five shots 110 yds
Five shots 220yds
-
To make the bracket you will need some basic machining skills. I made mine with bits I had laying around. The blocks that clamp on the scope mounts are made from 1/2 square aluminum. I drilled and tapped to take 6mm Allen bolts. The outer tube is made from 5/8 aluminum bar, drilled and tapped 6mm on one end and deep drilled 8mm from the other to take the internal rod.
The plate to take the phone is 1/8 aluminum plate. The phone hard case was about £1.50 from Ebay. The phone just clips in or out as required.
The phone mounting need to adjust in every way to fit different scopes.
Here's a couple of pics that might help.
-
how do you fix the camera to the scope ?
This is the first mount I tried - Blue Peter fashion, bits of plastic and a toilet roll tube.
With this set-up I shot this:
Then I decided to make a better bracket that will fit on almost any rifle:
Here's a still pic, taken through a Sightron S3 8-32 scope set at about 20x. Target is 100yds
-
I've been experimenting with shooting videos through the scope with my phone cam. Here's a bit I shot today.
Samsung Galaxy 2 phone, .22rf at 25 yds.
-
Unfortunately I don't think these are good enough for reloading - With a resolution of only .1 gram this is about 1.5 grains.
If you are looking for cheap digital scales then .01 grams is the minimum you can get away with.
or these at .001
However I think you would be a lot better off looking around for a good basic beam scale (not a Lee). Something like a used RCBS 502 or 505 or a Redding No 2. Although costing a little more it will last a lifetime. A cheap digital will be in the bin withing 12 months.
-
After a bit of research I'm almost set on buying a Ruger Old Army revolver. Before I write the cheque, is there any reason I would be better off with a different model ?
If this is the right choice for a quality BP revolver, and you have some experience of it, what load would you recommend for 25yd target use ?
Cheers,
Cat "in a cloud of smoke" Weazle.
The Ruger OA is a good choice for a BP revolver if you just want to enjoy shooting it. The Colt and the Remington BP revolvers are fairly faithful reproductions of the originals, but of course the Ruger only pays lip service to being a "cowboy gun", In the style of, you might say.
The good points are, it's stainless, which is a big bonus as cleaning a blued BP revolver after a days shooting is not a 10 minute job, every spec of residue must be cleaned out or it will be a heap of rust next time you use it.
It has adjustable sights and although there are also Remington copys with adjustable sights, the standard Remington and Colts were just a crude filed notch. If you get into competition shooting you can't enter the standard BP revolver match without fixed sights.
The guts are modern. ie it has all coil springs rather than leaf springs and it locks up as well as a modern revolver.
As long as attention is paid to a regular loading routine and quality balls of the right size are used these pistols are very accurate, just as accurate as a modern revolver but as with all pistol shooting it does take a LOT of practice.
There are other good quality BP revolvers about, for example the stainless Rogers and Spencer etc. They are all good fun but personally I much prefer the Remington rather than the Colt.
-
Yep! Love my SS tumbler - I use a rock tumbler with 3 drums.
garden rabbit shooting
in Airgunners
Posted
You may well find the properties either side are having the same problems with the rabbits and are only too pleased for you to clear them.