darren m
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Posts posted by darren m
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yes i had a black synthetic one , and wish i had never sold it , only 2 3/4 chambered though but still used it for everything from clays to geese
keep em clean and they work great
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what the mpg like ??
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Sorry for slow reply. To explain my reason....
Throwing dummies/balls/etc is simply a method to train the gundog to retrieve. Your dog now knows how to retrieve now and should move away from this "unrealistic" training to more relevant exercises. If it was just a pet, not a gundog, then this would not matter and would be a really good way of exercising the dog. But your dog is apparently dropping the dummy in front of you in the hope you will throw it again. This is no good. I suspect this is because it has learned that a dropped dummy, means another fun retrieve. Of course in the shooting field this is unacceptable. The dog cannot be allowed to drop game in front of you and should never be encouraged to do so. You would never throw a pigeon or a pheasant for the dog to retrieve, especially if the dog had just brought it back to you, so why do it with a dummy this late in training?
The retrieves should be stopped and the dog exercised in other ways for a couple of weeks. Then, when you start retrieves again, never throw them or use a launcher. Always place them blind or get someone else to throw/launch them, some distance away from you and the dog. Get the dog to hunt it up and retrieve it to you. Then accept the retrieve and put it away in your pocket/bag. Send the dog for a second blind retrieve straight after and it should get the idea that retrieving is about bringing balls/dummies/birds back to you, for you to keep and not bringing them back for you to throw again & again.
malc thanks - thats a great explanation . i have cut right down on retrieves now .
i,m going to stop using the tennis ball as this seems to excite her slightly more .
it seems like the more excited she is the worse the retrieve , if she can stay calm she seems to bring it in better
, i bought a dokken dummy the type where you inject the scent so will try hiding that about , also hiding cold game if i can get it should help .your right in the real world , you just would,nt throw out a dead bird again and again , makes perfect sense
thanks mate
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Only relevant for HPRs where back-casting, which is what you are describing, is a fault.
It is not with spaniels where, although the wind influences the hunting pattern, the nose should be on the ground.
Darren - there is a lot you can do to get the dog hunting for you rather than hunting for itself but I haven't got time just now, will drop you a PM later.
mate that would be brill , thanks
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re- different snakes and the false widow
would like to see some comparison pictures if you can put them up
thanks
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Good point RC made about keeping the chatter out ...makes a world of difference when you want the dog to pay attention at a particular point , you wouldnt stick an I pod on it and expect it to stay as sharp ...dogs soon turn of to nagging and to much whistle blowing ..its a fault you dont know till someone points it out
Are you going to quarter it up to something like a hidden dummy or just do the excersise by itself ?
both mate and your right about the whistle i do think cause i use it a lot , she eventually turns off.
this morning i took her out in the vale of belvior set her off to quarter ( just training ) , first off she went ok , but then got wide and further away from me , all the time i,m pipping and calling and trying to correct her and nag her
.eventually she turned off and did her own thing , just found a scent and work it out gets too far away and flushed a pheasant , end result ok , but thats not what i wanted .
bit latter on she flushes another bird and decides to try and run it down although i,m blowing the stop and recall , if only i had an E-collar on i,m sure a good zap would of made her think twice
all i want is for her to quarter or hunt but a lot closer than she does
i,m stumped -
so you dont actually lay a false scent then??
all i can think to do is stick her back on a long lead and walk about an open field( no scent ) from left to right , double pipping her when i decide to change direction and giving her a gentle tug on the line --- does that sound ok -- or have i missed something out
thanks
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hyper is what shes like , finding it difficult to teach her that this is work and not play .
in open field she does hunt follow scent but just goes wide and not controled , i was thinking a scent line might make her more accurate , maybe not .
guys give me more tips
, shes a good little bitch , but i,ve been trying for a while now and no real success -
teaching ESS to quarter
i,m not having much luck with this quartering .
i remember that you can use a drag line ( from an old post ) , but wondering hows the best way .
are you supposed to lay a scent using the line or is the long line for the dog only
someone explain
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whats happened to Dan
he's not been on here in a while , anyone know if he's ok :blink:
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IMHO. Try to get rid of the tennis ball and dummy, they have obviously become her toys. I presume that; when she has dropped the retrieve in front of you, that you then rewarded her by picking it up and giving her another retrieve. If this is the case, then it should stop. I suggest that you do not throw any more retrieves ever. After a couple of weeks break with no retrieves, carefully place the odd retrieve without her knowledge,(blind). Make her hunt it up wind. When she retrieves it, put it away in your bag. Praise and move away. Gradually encourage her to come close in and retrieve to hand by backing off and praising.
malc - your spot on , thats what seems to be happening .
i,m thinking that we have given her too many toys
, even in the house she as various toys she loves to carry about , but i thought carrying stuff was a good thing :(kids also give her retrievs in the garden.
i,am trying to teach her to get back and go left and right , she loves it like a game , probably do 20+ retrieves per session 5 each side a few back and a few long seen , non of them however come back to my hand ( always on the floor in front only
) and shes still eager for more .if you think stopping this will help , i,ll give it a go .
explain your reasoning for it though please mate .
thanks
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ok cheers - with all good intention i do try , but because shes so insistant i always end up giving her loads of retrieves.
re-quality
, well i need to get her to retrieve to hand , but she keeps bringing it back and just dropping it on the floor in front of me waiting to through it again so if anyones got any good ideas for retrieving to hand , please let me know
thanks
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can you give too much retrieving
my ESS is mad keen with a tennis ball or dummy, in fact some times thats all she wants to do .
what do you think
cheers
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thanks guys
MC - of course its the seen blind , i should of known that i,m such a ****
, i had used it before with my lab years ago but for some reason i just missed it out V-max - i used the words "get back" but i may change that to "get out" now -- reason for that is i often use the word "ACK" sharpley when i want her to stop doing something ie. like pulling forward when i,m healing her or if i think she,s going to move when i,m throughing dummies around her for steadiness or she might bolt for a rabbit that sort of thing .
so i,m glad you bought it up , its made me think
so if we/she gets this right i should be able to increase the distantance gradually to get her out in a straight line to most distances???
cheers
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hhmmm
i think you could be right my bitch as both rytex and badgercourt in her pedigree , but her looks are more in line with the openshaw trialing spaniels , very lean and lot of white.
Racey
, sometimes have to pull her in and calm her down , trainable i hope so or i,m wasteing my time 
one thing i have noticed about her is that the more she learns , the more she think she knows
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my lab Jack was the last in the litter , and the breeder let me have him cheaper as he was the last one .
the same thoughts
went through my mind , but that dog turned out to be the best dog i could of hoped for , sadly he's no longer with us boy do i miss him every day -
Are you trying to send her to a dummy that she has not seen placed? or do you walk her on the lead, drop the dummy and walk her away and then try sending her back?
If you are doing the first example then try doing the second. If you are doing the second then cut the distance down, even to about 10 feet if necessary and make sure she can see the dummy at all times.
It sounds like she doesn't really trust you and it could be that if she has failed to get the retrieve a couple of times she is beginning to think there is nothing there.
the 1st one mate unseen dummy , sometimes i plant them on the pathway before i get her out of the car , or drop one when shes pre-occupied with fetching a dummy shes seen me through . i never let her see the get backs / blinds .
i,ll try it the other way round
for a week see if it clicks .ok - so your saying leave her on the lead and let her SEE the dummy being dropped , walk on , sit her up , walk on in front and give her the command back
.i,ll start that tonight
is there anything else that might help.
thanks lads
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i thought my pup was coming on ok since she had got over the phantom .
been teaching the get back command on a 6/8 foot wide grass foot path for a while and she seemed to grasped that going back that bit further would find her the dummy.
anyways i,m not so sure now , all this week , i,ve been trying to get her to go back on command in an open field ( after i,ve placed a dummy there ) but shes just not getting it , shes learning left and right ok , but get back leaves her running round like a wally
.i,ve also noticed that where she used to look at me for a command and direction shes been trying to work it out her self ( ie . like shes saying i know its here somewhere dont worry i,ll find it eventually
).so anyways lads firstly i need tips and ideas on getting the get back command through to her so she,ll know to at least go back further and hopefully in the right direction
What do you all do to teach this
thanks
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thanks for telling us what happened mate , that must of been hard to write
if only you could name and shame that 1st vet , what a disgraceful and unprofessional thing to do
keep your chin up
all the best
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apperantley some of us can do it with diet and some of us can't , i tried diets etc but it did,nt work
then the doc tels me , your liver produces most of your cholesterol , so look after it
, bit late :unsure: wish he had told me sooner -
Here's one - it's my first attempt to put something on youtube - hope it worked!
mate thats brill -- how olds your cocker
wish i could get my ES spaniel to do that
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Any truth in spaying bitches before their first season leaves them more immature mentally than if you had it done after the first season?
was wondering that myself spaying before complete adult hood , i can understand the thinking in a male being castrated ie. testosterone .
but what about bitches
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mine was 7.1 last time and advised to go on statins , but hear all sorts about the side effects of the drug
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while out lamping a few years ago , a very quite military chopper ( could,nt tell which one ) hoverd above me , boy was it spooky , so quite .
the doors/bays where open and i could see straight through it , in side i could see a couple of chaps looking down at me wearing night vision goggles ( green eyes glowing ).
thing is i never even heard it approach :blink:
made the hairs on back of my neck stick right up
Rhodesian ridgeback
in Dogs and Dog Training
Posted
Tony -- have you made a decision yet mate .