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Which whistle, when to use it?


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Hi guys,

 

Already been reading this section quite a lot. Finally picked up my new pup the other day, shes a little black lab bitch, Saffy. Shes coming up 8 weeks and i think she has something between the ears, has already learned (in less than 2 days) that she cant come into the living room or go upstairs. House training is going OK and shes settling in well.

 

My question is; Which whistle should i get, should i take her to the shop and see which one she responds to?! Also, when i do get a whistle, when should i start using it and how?

 

Apologies if ive missed an already exitsting thread, would be great to get some info from you guys.

 

Cheers,

 

FFM

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Get the whistle now and start using it - The recall whistle at mealtimes, so the dog gets used to a treat when it comes back to you, stop whistle while doing the sit commands etc etc - Get the dog used to it.

 

As far as whistles go, i would recommend either the acme jobbies or the flash carved horn ones. I got a metal one a little while ago (as all the guys on my shoot use Acme whistles so iwanted a different pitch), but having managed to chip 2 front teeth on it, am using the horn one now.

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The whistle is the same as any other command, the dog will respond to what you teach it.

 

If you want to go with norm for a retriever go for a 211.5 pitch Acme whistle.

 

I personally don't like the horn whistle because they do not all have the same pitch so if you lose your whistle or like to carry spares the dog will be constantly having to catch up with which pitch to listen out for.

 

Get yourself some books, or better still, DVDs on retriever training.

 

Best of luck.

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I use (for an HPR):

 

1 drawn out whistle to stop (with arm up high to stop at a distance)* (blasting when at distance, softer when closer)

1 short pip to get attention

2 pips to turn

3 pips to recall ***

 

* I use this is one to practise indoors as well

 

*** I use this also to summon to my presence when at home and I am in another room.

 

When dog comes to me I use the drawn out whistle to sit.

 

Whistle 211.5

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I use (for an HPR):

 

1 drawn out whistle to stop (with arm up high to stop at a distance)* (blasting when at distance, softer when closer)

1 short pip to get attention

2 pips to turn

3 pips to recall ***

 

* I use this is one to practise indoors as well

 

*** I use this also to summon to my presence when at home and I am in another room.

 

When dog comes to me I use the drawn out whistle to sit.

 

Whistle 211.5

 

 

More or less the same as above but with my cocker i use a 210.5

the recall i use a few pip. i am just working on the speed of pipping to the speed the pup comes to me. i can recall pip slowly and pup comes slow, speed the pip up and he comes faster. i want this for finding pigeons in long crop so i can send him out and the call him over the top of the pigeon until he is on it.

 

couple of things to bare in mind with whistles. always buy a couple as you can guarantee you will miss place one for get it or like my misses, bend down to pick up poo and dip the whistle in it.lol.

 

i was tod not to get a pea whistle as they can freeze in winter and don't use a wood type whistle as the pitch changes depending on time of year. in the summer they are drier and winter theres damper. this causes the pitch to change.

 

best of luck

all the best

Phil.

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Daft question but as puppy ownership may be coming sooner than i thought how does a dog know its your whistle they can hear and not one for another dog?

 

A good question!

 

The whistle is only part of the tool box and handling a dog IMO uses body language, voice, whistle and above all good basic training.

 

A dog sent for a blind retrieve will stop on the whistle because, if its been trained properly, it will know it's going to be helped to the find. A spaniel pulling too wide in its hunting pattern will respond to a turn whistle because it knows its too wide.

 

A dog that gets ahead of itself and into an area where multiple whistles are in its zone of influence should respond to voice.

 

A dog running wild on shoot day will respond to nothing because it's not been properly trained or has been allowed to get too much steam up and lost its head.

 

Also most people use there whistle in subtly different ways so the dogs knows what it should be hearing.

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Had the dog out in the garden this morning with a few treats and the whistle, just doing the recall. she got the grasp quickly (as im sure most labs do when theres food to be had!). Thinking that i should stick to the recall for now as not to confuse her. Also, do you think its best to give treats on EVERY recall in the early days or whether to do every other one or 1:3 etc..

 

Thanks,

 

Ben

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Had the dog out in the garden this morning with a few treats and the whistle, just doing the recall. she got the grasp quickly (as im sure most labs do when theres food to be had!). Thinking that i should stick to the recall for now as not to confuse her. Also, do you think its best to give treats on EVERY recall in the early days or whether to do every other one or 1:3 etc..

 

Thanks,

 

Ben

 

 

Just stick to recall for now and definately treats with every recall so as not to confuse the dog ie so the dog doesn't think i did what he wanted but got no treat.

Above all there is plenty of time to train it other things , just take it slowly and little and often.

 

Hope that helps,

 

Alex

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  • 3 weeks later...

Just a quick update for the guys who helped with the great advice.

 

Saffy is coming up to 11 weeks old and has taken to the whistle (or, maybe the treats!) like a duck to water.. Shes coming quickly and instantly to the recall. Ive also been spending time getting her to sit and lay down before getting her dinner or treat. She will sit to the hand signal with no words and is getting there with the laying down.

 

Im wanting to be able to control her in close quaters silently as i intend to use her for stalking as well as rough shooting.

 

Heres a question;

 

She retrieves slippers, sticks, boots, whatever she can physically carry, should I keep on encouraging this or leave it until she gets older? Im ensuring she doesnt drop on the retrieve and is made to sit before i give her the 'dead' call to drop..

 

Thanks again,

 

Ben

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Just a quick update for the guys who helped with the great advice.

 

Saffy is coming up to 11 weeks old and has taken to the whistle (or, maybe the treats!) like a duck to water.. Shes coming quickly and instantly to the recall. Ive also been spending time getting her to sit and lay down before getting her dinner or treat. She will sit to the hand signal with no words and is getting there with the laying down.

 

Im wanting to be able to control her in close quaters silently as i intend to use her for stalking as well as rough shooting.

 

Heres a question;

 

She retrieves slippers, sticks, boots, whatever she can physically carry, should I keep on encouraging this or leave it until she gets older? Im ensuring she doesnt drop on the retrieve and is made to sit before i give her the 'dead' call to drop..

 

Thanks again,

 

Ben

 

Encourage it - sounds as though you are doing just great. The easiest way to teach a puppy a good delivery is in the house at this stage. They don't even realise they are learning.

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So, what would you class as the building blocks of a puppys training who is destined to be a gundog? Shes an intelligent little thing, but im sort of feeling my way in the dark, theres a lot of info out there and it can be bamboozling to say the least..

 

The sit and the recall. As long as you've got those you are ok. I would use the sit whistle as well straight away - food times etc.

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