luvbus Posted August 17, 2010 Report Share Posted August 17, 2010 Hi All, Does anyone have any dimensions to hand for making a toolset for removing & installing primers in .410 cases they could pass on? I will have access to a lathe for a couple of weeks at work so will have chance to put some reloading equipment together. Also, I have seen in previous topics on reloading .410 cartridges the importance of weighing the powder. Is this just to check the scoop you are using is delivering the correct charge or do you need to weigh the charge for each and every cartridge? T.I.A. Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sitsinhedges Posted August 17, 2010 Report Share Posted August 17, 2010 The punch wants to be slightly smaller than the ID of the case with a tip slightly smaller than a primer, silver steel is good for this. You can make a base with a cut out for the brass to sit in with a hole in the middle for the dead primer to fall thru. I just push new primers home on a flat surface, holding the case in my hand in situations like this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvbus Posted August 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2010 Thanks for that, I have taken some measurements of a cartridge so I can base the tools on that. Cheers, Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Floating Chamber Posted August 17, 2010 Report Share Posted August 17, 2010 (edited) The punch wants to be slightly smaller than the ID of the case with a tip slightly smaller than a primer, silver steel is good for this. You can make a base with a cut out for the brass to sit in with a hole in the middle for the dead primer to fall thru. I just push new primers home on a flat surface, holding the case in my hand in situations like this. The body of the punch also needs a tapered portion at the front to enter the mouth* of the fired shell. *very often, the mouth of the fired shell retains some of the 'roll' which makes wad insertion a pain. After de-priming, I open the mouth using the applicator from a mastic tube, and rotate it for a few moments in the path of steam from a steam gun. This eliminates the memory from the roll and gives you a nice wide case mouth that makes insertion of wads, (especially card and fibre) a doddle. Happy loading! pm me if you want any cheap H27, H33 or H40 wads! FC Edited August 17, 2010 by Floating Chamber Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvbus Posted August 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2010 The body of the punch also needs a tapered portion at the front to enter the mouth* of the fired shell. *very often, the mouth of the fired shell retains some of the 'roll' which makes wad insertion a pain. After de-priming, I open the mouth using the applicator from a mastic tube, and rotate it for a few moments in the path of steam from a steam gun. This eliminates the memory from the roll and gives you a nice wide case mouth that makes insertion of wads, (especially card and fibre) a doddle. Happy loading! pm me if you want any cheap H27, H33 or H40 wads! FC Thanks for that advice, sounds very useful. Is it useful to use a slotted mastic tube nozzle to slide the wads in to the cases? I am back offshore for the next two weeks so I will look into the wads and will let you know when I get back. Cheers for the offer. Can you give any advice on the weighing of the powder, do you weigh for every case or just to check the weight given in a powder scoop? Cheers, Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sitsinhedges Posted August 17, 2010 Report Share Posted August 17, 2010 The body of the punch also needs a tapered portion at the front to enter the mouth* of the fired shell. *very often, the mouth of the fired shell retains some of the 'roll' which makes wad insertion a pain. After de-priming, I open the mouth using the applicator from a mastic tube, and rotate it for a few moments in the path of steam from a steam gun. This eliminates the memory from the roll and gives you a nice wide case mouth that makes insertion of wads, (especially card and fibre) a doddle. Happy loading! pm me if you want any cheap H27, H33 or H40 wads! FC Thought the taper went without saying Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvbus Posted August 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2010 Thought the taper went without saying Yeah that lot is just what I need!!!!! B) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Floating Chamber Posted August 17, 2010 Report Share Posted August 17, 2010 What's that powder, Andy? I'm using A0 for 2" and Tecna for 21/2" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sitsinhedges Posted August 17, 2010 Report Share Posted August 17, 2010 What's that powder, Andy?I'm using A0 for 2" and Tecna for 21/2" It's Hodgdon H110 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John_R Posted August 17, 2010 Report Share Posted August 17, 2010 (edited) I made a .410 skiving tool for a mate yesterday. Edited August 17, 2010 by john_r Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b682 Posted August 17, 2010 Report Share Posted August 17, 2010 If you have a rcbs or similar press then try and get a cheap old set of 303 rifle reloading dies they are easy to modify to use for .410 withonly a little lathe work required. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvbus Posted August 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2010 If you have a rcbs or similar press then try and get a cheap old set of 303 rifle reloading dies they are easy to modify to use for .410 withonly a little lathe work required. I do not have access to a press, from the previous posts I have read I got the impression you were better off with hand tools for .410. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sitsinhedges Posted August 17, 2010 Report Share Posted August 17, 2010 I do not have access to a press, from the previous posts I have read I got the impression you were better off with hand tools for .410. B) Reloading by hand is fine it is just a bit slower and you have to take more care because unlike a press it is possible to double charge a cartridge if you don't pay attention Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy H Posted August 18, 2010 Report Share Posted August 18, 2010 Reloading by hand is fine it is just a bit slower and you have to take more care because unlike a press it is possible to double charge a cartridge if you don't pay attention as sits in hedges says it's easy to double charge when they are all loose , My personal way around this is to put the wad in straight after the powder on each case and not fill more than one case without putting a wad in. If then you manage to pour another charge of powder in you will really notice the difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvbus Posted August 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2010 as sits in hedges says it's easy to double charge when they are all loose , My personal way around this is to put the wad in straight after the powder on each case and not fill more than one case without putting a wad in.If then you manage to pour another charge of powder in you will really notice the difference. I will have to come up with a safe system of work!!!!! Cheers for the tips guys, Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony.T Posted August 18, 2010 Report Share Posted August 18, 2010 I made a .410 skiving tool for a mate yesterday. Very Nice john, excellent bit of work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony.T Posted August 18, 2010 Report Share Posted August 18, 2010 as sits in hedges says it's easy to double charge when they are all loose , My personal way around this is to put the wad in straight after the powder on each case and not fill more than one case without putting a wad in.If then you manage to pour another charge of powder in you will really notice the difference. Absolutely the way to go. If you've made a mistake it's obvious when the shot goes in.... If it overflows there's too much of something, too low from the top then something has been left out ! I got a length of 2x2 timber and used an auger to drill 10 holes in it that allow me to put 12 primed hulls in to keep them steady, then work my way down the line, each one gets these in sequence until finished (if that makes sense) :- Powder, over powder wad, filler wad(s), shot and finally overshot card. If I've done my bit right then each cartridge should appear the same. If not, then the offending ones are stripped down and I start again with them. Working steadily I can make 50 in an hour or hour and a half. But I've only just started doing this and I'm faster with practise! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvbus Posted August 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2010 Well, I have managed to get some lathe time and have made some tools to have a go at this reloading malarky!! Primer Punch 'Roll' Reamer Tool Primer Seating Tool Reversible De-priming Boss I am a little concerned the primer seating tool may have too small an i.d. as I couldn't get any primer dimensions from the net, and for obvious reasons I couldn't bring a spent cartridge to work with me on the rig!! I have got a bit of st.st. tubing of a larger dia. that I can make a sleeve with an interference fit to go onto the end of the current tool. Just got to find somewhere not too far away to go and buy the bits & pieces to go into the cases when I get home next week. Thanks for the help guys, Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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